Posted on

Wool flared Coat with Faux Fur Collar

wool flared coat with faux fur collar

Emma sent in a pic of the winter coat she made – She bought the fabric AGES ago (her words- all of five months – that’s not ages in our book) as she thought it would take a while to make this coat. And it was indeed quite time consuming!

The outer is wool/polyamide melton coating, and the lining is turquoise blue acetate lining.  There is some hair canvas in there too 🙂

She used a vintage 1950s pattern.

She thanks the girls at Stone Fabrics for getting the choice of fabrics right – we sent me loads of samples and Bess answered about 1000 questions she had!

She’s now deciding on her next challenge…

Here it is on the back. How cool is that?

wool flared coat with faux fur collar
wool flared coat with faux fur collar
Posted on

Sequinned Dress for a little Angel

sequinned dress singing little angel

Kitcat singing us all Christmas carols in her sequinned dress made by Jane. It is lined in heavy tricot and the armholes and neck are bound with jersey binding.

You get fabulous movement with this sequinned fabric as each sequin is black on one side and silver on the other, so every move is exaggerated with the movement of the sequin. They are surprisingly easy to sew -just snip them out of the seam allowance so you don’t need to sew through them.

You can find various sequinned fabrics HERE

1926
black and silver sequinned fabric
Posted on

Patchwork Duvet Cover

blues and greens themed patchwork duvet cover

Jane hiding behind the patchwork duvet she made for her granddaughter Miaow, using up all the scraps of cotton we have accumulated over the years. We don’t really do patchwork cottons we generally stick to patterns that work better for dressmaking so getting these prints to work together was a challenge, but Jane did a grand job (and there’s another one for the eldest grandchild Kitcat, too.

Because of the bulk of seams Jane backed the patchwork with a light cotton muslin (just to keep the fraying contained), and then the duvet is backed with a brushed cotton sheet.

you can find lots of quilting weight cottons around here: http://www.stonefabrics.co.uk/product-tag/quilting/

Posted on

Printed Boiled Wool Circular Skirt

Lizzy wearing boiled wool circle skirt

Lizzy with her boiled wool circular skirt. Lizzy has a paper pattern phobia and so usually just wings it. Luckily circular skirts are easier to wing than patterns so here we have a completed project and a proud owner 🙂

The boiled wool is quite stretchy so the waist came out bigger than anticipated. She has used cotton rib jersey as a yoke and then tied it in with plaited velvet ribbons to make a tail.

She then embroidered beads onto the ‘Lion’*… as you do.

bead embroidered boiled wool
beads embroidered onto printed boiled wool
back view of circle skirt
Back view showing the velvet ‘tail’

*Lizzy is completely convinced there is a lion hiding in the print (hence why she beaded him). Lizzy swears she has never taken drugs.

 

Posted on

Leather look Ponte Jersey Jeans and Leopard Print T-Shirt

leopard print mock wrap t-shirt and ponte leather look jersey jeans

Rachel (with her whippet who knows she’s not really allowed in the shop) wearing black leather look ponte jeans (beautifully made) but not fitting brilliantly*… prototype #2 coming soon, and slinky dink leopard print poly jersey mock wrap t-shirt.

She does love a bit of Kitsch, does our Rach, and this is definitely in the kitsch camp!

The Jeans are butterick 5682 (not designed for jersey hence the fitting issues) and the top is Burda 6848.

polyester leopard print jersey
polyester leopard print jersey
leather look ponte roma type jersey
leather look ponte roma type jersey

*Actually we think they fit pretty well but Rachel likes perfection.

Posted on

Wind in the Willow inspired Velvet Outfits.

Kitcat and Miaow (having been told to smile)* wearing cotton velvet fitted jacket, yellow dogtooth fitted jacket, acetate crushed velvet plus-fours and a dogtooth check waistcoat, all made by Jane (the granny) for a trip to Chatsworth House for their Wind in the Willows themed Christmas decorations.

Despite over two years between them their size difference is negligible so these outfits are interchangeable.

They both like wearing them around the office, too.

wine red cotton velvet jacket
wine red cotton velvet jacket
yellow dogtooth stretch suiting jacket
yellow dogtooth stretch suiting jacket
velvet plus fours and jacket with a dogtooth check waistcoat
velvet plus fours and jacket with a dogtooth check waistcoat
Wine red cotton velvet from Neideck
Wine red cotton velvet from Neideck
yellow dogtooth stretch suiting
yellow dogtooth stretch suiting
Green crushed Velvet
Green crushed Velvet

*I shall save these ‘smiling’ pics for their 18th birthdays. That’ll learn ’em.

 

Posted on

Black Jersey Ensemble for an 8 (going on 18) Year Old

black polka dot printed viscose jersey top and pencil skirt

Kitcat wearing her black jersey skirt and cropped T-shirt which she made HERSELF. Jane helped (with hyper alertness) as Kitcat was burning along at break-neck speed with the overlocker.

There is probably a really important life-lesson learned here but we are not quite sure which it is, or for whom.

Meanwhile, Kitcat has a fabulous outfit to pretend she is 18 in, and Granny still has all her fingers.

The fabrics are both viscose jersey, one heavier and slightly textured for the skirt and a lightweight polkadot print for the top.

black polka dot printed viscose jersey
black polka dot printed viscose jersey
Posted on

Feather Trimmed Red Guipure Lace Coat (squawking obligatory)

Red guipure lace coat with feather trim

Bess in her not-very-over-the-top coat at all made using red guipure lace and 6″ feather trim.

The coat was prepared ever so slowly making sure the spots matched and everything would line up properly and then it was izzywhizzied together on the overlocker in about 3 minutes.

Then the feather trim was hand sewn on (Bess’s fingers are still calloused from the needle – that trim has got sticky stuff inside the satin binding (that stop the feathers falling out), it’s not nice to sew!

Then the feather trim was un-picked and sewn on all over again not so tight in an effort to make it hang straight in the middle. It’s almost there, Bess weighed up further hand sewing and the possibility of losing her fingers with her OCD of straight edges and the fingers won.

Then the front edge and neck were bound in fold-over petersham binding which magically saved the jacket from being a bit ‘crafty’ (in the derogatory way) and Bess wore it to her baby step-sister’s wedding.

Also seen: bag made from offcuts of leather and a London bus e-plate. As you do.

red circle design guipure lace
red circle design guipure lace
Posted on

Fawn Wool Mix Tweed Fitted Jacket

wool mix with cashmere soft tweed jacket

Anastasia modelling her fabulous fitted jacket made using Burdastyle magazine pattern 112b (from 3/2015). This fabric is jacket weight wool mix with cashmere soft tweed that looks super in such a well fitting little jacket.

one button closure on tweed jacket
one button closure on tweed jacket
slinky poly satin lining on tweed jacket
slinky poly satin lining on tweed jacket
wool mix with cashmere soft tweed suiting
wool mix with cashmere soft tweed suiting

Lined in printed polyester satin :4388

This jacket was made last May and Anastasia has worn it a LOT through Scotland’s not-so hot summer!

Posted on

Liberty Alice in Wonderland Print Cotton Dress and Shirt

Liberty Alice in Wonderland printed cotton Lawn Dress and Shirt

Kitcat and Miaow visiting Granny (Jane) at the shop wearing their matching Liberty tana lawn Alice in Wonderland print dress and shirt. The pattern is Burda 9417 (as seen already for school shirts), they tie in at the back. Jane didn’t use any interfacing for the collars, the sleeves puff with elastic in the hem. They both have mismatched coloured buttons.

Miaow (age 5) is wearing a bee print cotton skirt trimmed with rick-rack and gathered onto yellow elastic which SHE MADE HERSELF! We helped a bit, she drove the sewing machine and overlocker with the pedals up on shoe boxes so she could reach. She sat on our lap and helped guide the fabric and shouted STOP! when she was going to drive off the edge. It’s probably the most fun you can have with a child without custard pies.

 

Didn’t she do well?!

Liberty Alice in Wonderland printed cotton Lawn Dress and Shirt
Liberty Alice in Wonderland printed cotton Lawn Dress and Shirt
Posted on

Navy Corded Lace Shrug

Navy corded lace shrug with scalloped edges

Debbie modelling her shrug made using navy corded lace with scalloped edges.  She was very pleased with it as it really updated a dress she had had for a long time.  She drafted the pattern using a short sleeved shrug she already had as a pattern. Debbie had to do a bit of juggling with the scallops and hand stitching so that they would go around the curves but was glad with the finished effect. It turned out a little tight across the back and around the armholes but wasn’t a problem when it was worn for a posh event as was still able to dance in it!

Posted on

Geometric Teardrop Print Cotton Jersey Child’s Dress

geometric print cotton and elastane t-shirt dress

Frances made this dress for her grand-daughter to go to the school Oscar awards. It’s an easy pull on dress using McCall’s Pattern 7079 and made with a t-shirt weight cotton and elastane single jersey.

It’s a good idea to stay the shoulder seams with a bit of tape on t-shirts and dresses, you can use a seam tape, iron on a bit of stabilising interfacing or even sew in a bit of the jersey selvedge (if it is stable enough).

Posted on

Child’s Fur Coat with Bunny Rabbit Print Lining

Child's fur coat with bunny rabbit print lining

Jane and Elwen made this sooo sweeet fur coat using Burda 9501 pattern, They lined it in bunny rabbit print quilting cotton and used toning toggle buttons. There is no interfacing -not even on the button holes which Jane insists is fine and they didn’t need it. She can break the rules because she has been sewing for about a thousand years.

Child's fur coat with bunny rabbit print lining
Love the way even her name-tag tones!

 

Child's fur coat with bunny rabbit print lining
Child’s fur coat with bunny rabbit print lining

 

Posted on

Hand Embroidered and Painted Wool Tweed Skirt

hand embroidered children's drawings onto wool tweed skirt

Bess used her 5 and 8 year old niece’s fabulous drawings as inspiration for the embellishment on this wool tweed A-Line skirt. First she used white fabric paint and then embroidered using a heavy thread and added beads and sequins. It was all done by hand as the tweed is quite a loose weave and she was concerned machine embroidery would make it too stiff (certainly the kind of embroidery Bess has the patience for!).

It is lined in Venezia lining – turned on the lining with no waistband and bound with an ottoman (heavy) bias binding. Strips of Iron on interfacing tape were used to reinforce the back of the areas where the belt loops go. The concealed zip was moved from the back seam to the side so the back could be cut on the fold also. You rarely get any shaping on the back seam so if you have enough fabric to do this (it invariably takes extra on an a-line skirt) you can without brainache.

Bess is very fickle but this is her absolute favourite skirt at the moment.

hand embroidered childre's drawings onto wool tweed skirt
Butterfly
hand embroidered childre's drawings onto wool tweed skirt
house with roof blowing off
hand embroidered childre's drawings onto wool tweed skirt
house flower
hand embroidered childre's drawings onto wool tweed skirt
girl with yellow hair
hand embroidered childre's drawings onto wool tweed skirt
star flower
hand embroidered childre's drawings onto wool tweed skirt
Elsa from frozen with her high heels and plaited hair
hand embroidered childre's drawings onto wool tweed skirt
doodle
hand embroidered childre's drawings onto wool tweed skirt
doodle
hand embroidered childre's drawings onto wool tweed skirt
Pussy Cat
hand embroidered childre's drawings onto wool tweed skirt
house without a door
hand embroidered childre's drawings onto wool tweed skirt
robot
hand embroidered childre's drawings onto wool tweed skirt
star
hand embroidered childre's drawings onto wool tweed skirt
apple tree
hand embroidered childre's drawings onto wool tweed skirt
hem (Hong Kong finish)
hand embroidered childre's drawings onto wool tweed skirt
Belt detail. Don’t look too close at the bias stitching.
hand embroidered childre's drawings onto wool tweed skirt
wiggly worm

 

hand embroidered childre's drawings onto wool tweed skirt
hand embroidered children’s drawings onto wool tweed skirt

 

 

Posted on

Brocade Zipped Bodice

Lurex and polyester brocade zipped bodice

Lulu wearing her cloqué brocade bodice made by Jane. It is lined in cotton poplin as we needed something a bit beefier than normal lining to protect her sensitive skin from the lurex. The neck and armholes are bound with jersey bias. Because the zip needs to be open end and colours are limited the zip was put in the side seam so as not to draw attention to the dubious colour match.

brocade zipped bodice, linen jacket and skirt
brocade zipped bodice, linen jacket and skirt

lulu-brocade-bodice-zip

Lurex and polyester brocade zipped bodice
Lurex and polyester brocade zipped bodice
Posted on

Cream Sequinned Linton Tweed Coat

Cream Linton Tweed Coat

Bess went to Vegas to see her Sister get married (Johnny Cash came back from the dead to marry her). Of course she needed a new coat but Vegas being Vegas sequins were in order, albeit subtle and rather stylish ones woven into a fabulous Linton Tweed.

The tweed was quilted onto silk organza to give it a bit of stability (machine quilted in vertical lines with silk thread), it was lined in silk crepe de chine, trimmed with a cotton decorative braid, fastened with corset hooks and weighted at the hem with chain.

It has since been the go-to coat for weddings/birthday parties and posh dinners out.

You can find lots of cardigan jacket tweeds HERE

cardigan jacket tweed from Linton made up into coat
cardigan jacket tweed from Linton made up into coat
Posted on

Orange Bouclé Wool Mix Knit Braced Skirt and Jacket

orange bouclé wool mix knit braced skirt

Holly made this tangerine orange cotton wool and viscose mix bouclé heavy knit from LG as part of a Plymouth College of Art Fashion project to make a ‘skirt’ and cape as part of her university project. The not so practical skirt has large pockets – the entire front and back panels, braces to hold it up and metal boning through the top to hold the shape!  It was inspired by Cornish China Clay and they held a fashion show at the eden project to help raise money for the people and gardens charity.

It’s nuts. I want one. 

orange bouclé wool mix braced skirt -back
orange bouclé wool mix braced skirt -back
catwalk show of orange bouclé knit braced skirt
catwalk show of orange bouclé knit braced skirt

 

Posted on

Duck Egg Silk Damask Ralph Rucci for Vogue Dress

silk damask Ralph Rucci Dress

Suzanne from Cyprus celebrating her son’s wedding (he’s the one holding the flowers) wearing Silk Damask made up in a v-neck flared dress by Ralph Rucci for Vogue (V1381). This pattern is not simple – there are quilted yokes and bands, an attached belt with some tricky rouleau to tie it together —all in a fabric that doesn’t easily yield. It took her a while but it was very much worth it.

We love this photo. Such fun.

 

Posted on

White Dobby Cotton School Shirts

dobby cotton school blouses

Kitcat and Miaow all ready for school wearing their blouses made by Jane and Elwen in dobby weave cotton voile. The pattern is Burda 9417, there was an awful lot of ‘awwwwww! soooo sweeeeeeet!’ coming from the sewing room when they were making these, especially those cute little puff sleeves.

Kitcat has little black and white layered buttons and Miaow has hearts. The shorts are made with green and white gingham cotton and trimmed with daisy trim.

Posted on

Hand Sewn Silk Chiffon Shirt

hand sewn Alice in Wonderland silk shirt

Ruscha sporting her hand sewn silk chiffon shirt, which we at the Stone Fabrics headquarters are in awe of. She insists that it didn’t take that long to make and is a more enjoyable way to sew (she can sit in the garden and tinker away without noise). However it was made it is amazing. We love the mix of the two colour ways.

Also seen: linen and lycra stripey jersey skirt

ruscha-silk-shirt-2

Posted on

Blue Floral Stretch Cotton Sateen Shift with Cap Sleeves

floral stretch cotton sateen shift dress with cap sleeves

Jane at the Royal Academy Summer exhibition flaunting her floral stretch cotton sateen dress. The pattern comes from her block -which if you look at flat on the table looks absolutely barmy but fits her fabulously so don’t argue- Symmetrical, she is not!

The dress is lined in Venezia and there is a concealed zip up the back.

Matching shoes: model’s own.

floral stretch cotton sateen shift dress with cap sleeves
floral stretch cotton sateen shift dress with cap sleeves

 

Posted on

Spotty Summer Shirt and Printed Stretch Denim Skirt

spotty cotton shirt and rococo printed stretch denim skirt

Jane’s daughter Jessie wearing her LG polka dot printed cotton short sleeve shirt and her Rococo printed stretch indigo denim skirt. Jane wasn’t sure her 40+ year old daughter would want daisy buttons but she did. The skirt had to be taken in a bit because that denim is quite stretchy.

The pattern for the shirt is taken from an old M&S shirt and the skirt pattern is a long discontinued Burda pattern (3198), the closest available now is McCall’s 3341.

Posted on

Digitally Printed Balloon Jersey Panelled Dress

balloon digital print jersey panelled dress

Bess wearing her digitally printed cotton jersey dress made using her (much repeated) panelled dress pattern-this normally has waist seams but she omitted them so as not to cut up the balloons too much. As the pattern is normally used on woven fabrics she also pinned out the little bust darts as they were unnecessary in this stretchy fabric.

This jersey is quite a heavy cotton jersey with a high percentage of elastane (6%) so it keeps its shape well and doesn’t need lining. Rather than meddling with facings (which never lie terribly well in such a stretchy jersey) Bess used jersey binding around the neck and arm holes.

All the seams were sewn in a jiffy with the overlocker, the hems and bindings were done on the machine (because it’s quicker to zigzag than drag out the flat locker).

Posted on

Ultramarine Blue Ponte Roma Persey Peplum Dress

ultramarine blue ponte roma jersey peplum dress

Lesley made this ultramarine blue Ponte Roma jersey dress with a peplum. The pattern was Simplicity Project Runway 1650.  This pattern wasn’t lined, but she preferred a fully lined dress so did it with a polyester Tricot (knitted) lining. 

Lining  a dress like this gives it a more professional finish as it meant the armholes and neck could be under-stitched so the stitching is not visible on the right side.  She also lined the peplum rather than just hemming it (as per the pattern) to get a better finish.  Ponte Roma jersey is not that stretchy so an invisible zip is used at the centre back which she tacked -something she hasn’t done for years but so worth it to set it in evenly on a stretch fabric and to make sure that seams lined up perfectly.

 The Ponte fabric was lovely to sew; for anyone not comfortable with sewing jersey or stretch fabrics it is a good place to start.

 

Posted on

Reversible Cotton Lawn Shift Dress

Liberty archive print cotton lawn reversible shift dress

Elwen with her Liberty archive printed cotton lawn shift dress that reverses to show lime green organic cotton. It chucks over her head so there’s no need for a zip. The printed side is longer than the green side so with a reasonable hem you see a border of print when worn on the green side (trying to make each fabric the same length is a recipe for disaster). Patch pockets are added to each side.

Liberty archive print cotton lawn reversible shift dress
Liberty archive print cotton lawn reversible shift dress

The pattern is a discontinued Burda pinafore dress.