Posted on

Pink Wool Crepe Dress with Sleeves

deep fuchsia pink wool crepe

Julie needed a ‘posh frock’ for a winter wedding and wool crepe fitted the bill nicely. Wool crepe will tailor so beautifully and is a joy to work with. It is warm in the cold and cool in the heat so a perfect choice for those occasions when you are half outside in the freezing cold and then indoors with the fires blazing.

The dress is lined in Venezia lining – a breathable anti-static lining that is soft and drapey like the crepe

Posted on

Red Viscose Printed Ogden Cami

red viscose printed ogden cami by True Bias

Bess loves how the Ogden Cami (by True Bias) doesn’t slip off her shoulders like most camisoles do – that’s some clever drafting. As a c-cup she just about gets away without doing a dart in it so long as the fabric is super light and drapey (like this viscose lawn is). It is also great how you can make a useful versatile top out of a tiny bit of fabric!

Whilst you should always wash fabric on the lowest temperature possible to preserve the life of it Bess pre-washes her viscose on 40˚C to get rid of any shrinking (something viscose is very good at doing!)

Posted on

Linen Mix Classic T-Shirt

linen mix t-shirt with FBA

Julie is on a quest for the perfect T-Shirt which she has trouble with due to boobage. Having to do an FBA to every pattern you get is a pain but the reason why we sew for ourselves is to get the fit right, right? If you ever need to do an FBA Julie is the girl to talk to!

This jersey is a linen mix knit which has resulted in a lovely fit. She thinks there is still work to do but we love it.

Posted on

Turquoise Fit and Flare Floral Dress

turquoise fit and flare floral print viscose dress

Jane (who used to come to classes back when we did classes) made this fab fit and flare floral print dress for a family wedding. The fabric is somewhat stretchy which made aspects of this dress tricky but with patience and perseverance she got there (we are always available for advice when needed). It is lined in Venezia which helped a lot in making the dress behave itself. Venezia is so soft and breathable it is perfect for lining summery dresses that would otherwise lose their shape. Even the pale colours are perfectly opaque.

Posted on

Bell Sleeve Black Linen Tunic

bell sleeve linen smock top

This is the  @theassemblylineshop #talpuffshirt using a buttery soft black lightweight black linen. It so soft it almost feels like very fine wool. Susie is really pleased with it. The Assembly Line are so clever with their classic and slightly unusual designs. Susie is not one to usually see herself in a puff sleeve blouse but it’s not too puffy and loves the hidden cuff idea, and the envelope neck reminds her of all the easy to put on baby clothes her five children wore.

Posted on

Supersoft Lightweight Linen Peasant Shirt with Contrast Stitching

Supersoft lightweight linen Peasant shirt made by Alexa

We love this fabulous peasant shirt made by Alexa using a supersoft washed lightweight white linen and embroidered with navy contrast zigzag stitching. It is the  #roscoeblouseanddress pattern by @truebias . As well as the stitching being aesthetically pleasing it helps to keep this very lightweight woven fabric stabilised without using facings (like a heavy duty stay-stitch). Beautiful.

Posted on

Pale Blue Babycord Shirt

pale blue babycord men's shirt

My husband Denis in his ‘stone fabrics’ shirt. As mentioned on the phone, spot the deliberate mistake, cuff and placket the wrong way round, must do better next time.

The fabric is pale blue babycord that we sourced from a well known British designer . The pattern is Burda 7045, the collar from view A and used a darker blue trim for the inside of the sleeve placket edge and the collar.

We didn’t spot the deliberate mistake – 10/10 Janet!

Posted on

Cotton Scrubs

cotton drill scrubs

Who new at the beginning of 2020 we would madly be making scrubs? We have a lot of customers who had to very quickly put their dressmaking skills to something a little more utilitarian. This is the super dapper Mark, the husband of Cloth Club member Lynn who made him these cotton drill scrubs (pattern taken from For The Love of Scrubs facebook group) to wear at the doctor’s surgery when it was deemed necessary for all the medical staff to wear PPE.

Posted on

DIY Face Mask

trend patterns fitted face mask free pdf download

Face masks are a contentious subject but we are at the stage where desperation and doing *something* is hopefully better than nothing. Bess trialed a variety of patterns and found this mask by @trend_patterns to be the favourite. she had planned on the pleated style (simpler) and they work brilliantly in non woven filtering fabric but we currently don’t have access to that. When you make them up in cotton they can be a little heavy, cumbersome, and don’t fit terribly well (not on our testers, anyway)

Trend patterns free pdf download of face mask
Trend Pattern (free download) face mask

If there is one thing we can’t abide at Stone Fabrics it’s a bad fit! 
So this ‘tailored fit’ mask from trend patterns is the chosen one. We adjusted the lining pieces to simplify it (you need an opening for a filter, we don’t think you need two openings), and have gone with ties rather than elastic as it is more comfortable and more durable on a hot wash. Otherwise, this pattern was more or less as it should be. Stone Fabrics recommend it.  

pattern pieces of trend patterns diy face mask
pattern pieces of Trend Patterns DIY face mask

For the tester masks we used quilting / poplin weight cottons, for the lining a lightweight but dense pure cotton jersey, there’s a small bit of bakers wire in the nose (overlocked in when sewing the seam) and a scrap of bias at the chin. Until we can find some melt blown non-woven filtering fabric (like they use in an N95 mask) or even hepa filters I am using kitchen towel as the disposable filters. Again, hopefully it is better than nothing.

cotton jersey and craft cotton diy face mask
first batch of face masks using remnants of craft cotton, poplin and chambray for thew outer fabric, and pure cotton jersey for the liner. Most of the ties were using a stash of grosgrain ribbon, or herringbone tape. If you use elastic it won’t be able to be washed as hot.
trend patterns diy face mask lining with two pocket openings
The first few were made according to the pattern with two pocket openings. We feel this is unnecessary work and so future versions had just the one opening (to put a disposable filter in the pocket)
trend patterns diy face mask with hacked single opening in liner
trend patterns diy face mask with hacked single opening in liner

Once we were happy with the construction we made a batch for the local care home (they were desperate).

trend patterns free pdf download of face mask made up using cotton piqué on the outer, cotton jersey for the liner and a pocket for a tissue filter.
trend patterns free pdf download of face mask made up using cotton piqué on the outer, cotton jersey for the liner and a pocket for a tissue filter. The ties are made using a lightweight cotton tape. All of the components on this mask are washable on at least 60˚C

Covid-19 is a new virus and so testing and research in these early days are seriously insubstantial. We do not know how long it lasts on surfaces, or if it can survive extremes of temperatures. There is research changing the rules all the time, a good place to start is here:

What little advice we have found that seems to be sensible:
This is not a surgical mask but there is some evidence that it can help. It is more important to wash your hands, Only go out when you absolutely have to and if you do go out practise social distancing whilst wearing your mask.

You need to take care when removing the mask so as not to touch or shake it, remove and dispose of the filter safely, and put it in the wash immediately.

Posted on

Silver Grey Hampton Jean Jacket

Silver Grey Classic Denim Jacket

Tina (Sewimpatient) made this brilliant  @alinadesignco Hampton jean jacket using silver grey stretch denim and we LOVE it so much. Tina has a brilliant eye for detail and her makes are so well executed. Fabulousness.

She says: I managed to get my Hampton Jean Jacket sewn up and just wanted to say thanks so much for the fabric recommendation as it turned out to be the perfect choice. It’s super soft and the fact that it has some stretch didn’t cause any problems.  If you need a jean jacket it’s a great pattern to have.

 @alinadesignco Hampton jean jacket in silver grey stretch denim
Posted on

Lobster Embroidered Cotton Denim Chambray Shirt

lobster embroidered cotton denim chambray shirt

lobster embroidered denim chambray shirt made by Bess with the matching plain chambray on the sleeve and front plackets (10649), and a scrap of tiger print poplin lining the collar and cuffs. The pattern is adjusted from @burda_style magazine 07/2019 men’s shirt no 128. His nieces call him Lobster Pinchy so now he has a shirt to match his name 😂

lobster embroidered cotton denim chambray shirt
and he wears it!
lobster embroidered cotton denim chambray shirt cuff detail
cuff detail
lobster embroidered cotton denim chambray shirt collar detal
collar detail
Posted on

Ultrasuede Fringed Jacket

ultrasuede fringed jacket

Paula has been such a long-standing loyal customer we can recite her telephone number backwards and yet this is the first image she has sent us (She’s shy!). Well it’s never too late to send us photos for the catwalk – no one can say we lack patience! Here we have a super soft oyster beige ultrasuede made into a long jacket – which in true dressmaker fashion she decided it was a bit boring so added fringing ❤️ ❤️ ❤️ 

Posted on

Embroidered Tulle Posh Frock

embroidered tulle posh frock

Karen made this fabulous embroidered tulle with 3-D flowers into a posh frock to die for. The pattern is Simplicity 1606 made for a strictly come dancing ball.

She says: Thank you for the great fabric Turquoise crepe worked well as a base for the tule. Used the scalloped edge around neck, sleeve and hem

It’s Fabulous Karen!

Posted on

Waffle Textured Navy Wool Coat

waffle textured navy wool coat

Sally here wearing the navy textured wool coat she had made up for her by Wendy – a local dressmaker -we know it’s cheating but Wendy is excellent and Sally has no patience for sewing! It is lined in a lovely silk pique (sorry- no pic) and trimmed with matt navy suit buttons and cotton grosgrain ribbon.

The pattern was alterecd from an old Vogue blazer pattern – stolen nfrom Bess

Posted on

Ponte Roma Long Sleeve Sheath Dress

Ponte Roma long sleeved sheath dress

This is Jenny wearing her extra long sleeved McCalls M7531 dress made in rococco print posh ponte roma jersey. It’s a very simple pattern (Jenny’s words) . She is usually a 10 – 12 and for this pattern was a medium. Surprisingly she didn’t need to shave anything off the the hips which is an alteration she normally does (snake hips!). This probably means us more endowed in the hip department will need to add.

Jenny chose not to have a seam down the back, as with jersey there is absolutely no need, so cut the back on the fabric fold also having straightened the pattern to match the front . 
As it was a beginner pattern she ignored some of the directions (e.g double stitch the seams) and made the sleeves extra long goth style. 

It came out good ! Very warm dress for a winter occasion. Pretty good on the lumps and bumps also (Ed. Jenny, WHAT lumps and bumps?!)

Posted on

Mushroom Grey Denim Shorts

mushroom grey stretch denim shorts with pointy finger pocket linings

Bess made these stretch denim shorts for her ridiculously fussy husband (she keeps swearing she will never make for him again, but then the morale boost when he likes it and wears it is too much of a temptation). The denim is not that heavy but to keep them light she lined the waistband, pockets and fly with the pointy finger print cotton poplin.

She used odd buttons on the fly because she was using up old stocks, but loves that feature. and will do it again.

The pattern is taken off an old favourite pair.

The shorts passed the temperamental sewing machine test AND the fussy husband test 😊

mushroom grey stretch denim shorts with pointy finger waistband lining
mushroom grey stretch denim shorts with pointy finger waistband lining
mushroom grey stretch denim shorts with darted legs
Posted on

Tartan Check Cropped Trousers and Clear TPU Leopard Print Jacket

TPU clear leopard print raincoat with linen and wool tartan worsted cropped trousers

Bess made the pattern from her block for these trousers, but it is very similar to the Marcy Tilton for Vogue V8499 trousers. She added extra width below the hip and then darted them back in at the bottom. The fabric is a wool, linen and silk blend worsted suiting that is a delight to sew with (even when matching checks!) and is not at all itchy to wear so was made unlined. -With the thought it *might* be itchy Bess used a contrast cotton cartoon print on the inside of the waistband.

green and blue tartan linen wool and silk worsted suiting cropped trousers
green and blue tartan linen wool and silk worsted suiting cropped trousers - detailed fly view
green and blue tartan linen wool and silk worsted suiting cropped trousers- back view

The Jacket is a leopard print TPU clear plastic that Bess sewed with bias binding so as not to be unstuck by the fabric not feeding properly through the machine (you can stop this happening also by using a teflon foot, or sewing with strips of tissue which are then torn off). The pattern is the Kelly Anorak by Closet Case Patterns (simplified a little). Bess made it for a festival (it looks brilliant at night with lights inside), but actually it’s fab to wear on the many rainy days we suffer in Devon. She didn’t bond the seams or do any special waterproofing, but finds it hold up exceptionally well- even to a downpour on a Welsh mountain!

TPU clear waterproof kelly anorak jacket with leopard print - side view
TPU clear waterproof kelly anorak jacket with leopard print - front view
The jacket zips up with a clear chunky tooth separating zipper
Posted on

45 Appliqué Denim Jersey T-Shirt

appliqué t-shirt 45rpm record with sequins, reflective fabric and glow in the dark fabric

How to celebrate turning 45? Applique a single onto your t-shirt, of course! Bess made the t-shirt out of her precious stash of denim jersey (she has been hoarding this since 2008, and this is her 5th t-shirt out of it). She then used bondaweb to applique the sequined fabric, the reflective grey ‘stylus’ and the glow-in-the-dark centre. Not willing to trust the bondaweb on a stretch she then meticulously stitched around by machine.

With all the shiny/reflective/glowing parts to the applique this t-shirt is brilliant at night.

When feeling uncomfortable with an impending birthday the only thing to do is embrace it!

Posted on

Indigo Denim Jersey Sirocco Jumpsuit

denim jersey Sirocco jumpsuit

Sarah made this Dear and Doe Sirocco jumpsuit using heavy indigo dyed denim jersey, it needed washing twice before making up due to the excess dye, and she has added a invisible zipper on the side as the fabric is not as stretchy as the pattern requires, but isn’t this amazing?

side view of sirocco jumpsuit by Dear and Doe made up in indigo dyed heavy cotton denim jersey.

You can find sarah on Instagram, but here’s what she says: V2 #ddsirocco Having analysed what went wrong with v1 (fabric too thin and too black, over-lengthened the bodice, over-tapered the legs, short sleeves in winter colour made no sense), I’m glad I had another go. This time I only lengthened the bodice 1.5in, and kept the waistband depth and legs as per pattern, and I extended the sleeves to make it cooler weather appropriate. As this indigo jersey from @stonefabrics is quite sturdy and not as stretchy as the pattern requires, I had to install a side invisible zip. I’m really pleased with the result, even though it is absolutely impossible to wriggle into without getting white deodorant marks on 😂.

Posted on

Linton Tweed Biker Jacket

Linton Tweed biker jacket made by Jayne Davie

Jayne self drafted this Coco She-Who-Must-Not-Be-Named pattern to make up in a Linton Tweed. Due to the unstable nature of the tweed it is mounted onto a black brushed cotton and then lined as normal. There is a separating zipper running down the front and two matching short zips on the sleeves.

Linton tweed biker jacket made by Jayne Davie

Mounting a fabric sounds difficult but it is more time consuming rather than difficult- and less time consuming than trying to fix errors from an unstable fabric moving! You can mount onto all kinds of fabrics depending what weight and drape you need. Because this jacket needs a bit of structure a brushed cotton works well, you would normally use cotton domette but because the colour shows through Jayne went with the brushed cotton. If you just want to stabilise without adding any weight we recommend you use silk organza.

linton tweed biker jacket side view made by Jayne Davie
Linton Tweed biker jacket side view showing zip made by Jayne Davie