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Linton Tweed Biker Jacket

Linton Tweed biker jacket made by Jayne Davie

Jayne self drafted this Coco She-Who-Must-Not-Be-Named pattern to make up in a Linton Tweed. Due to the unstable nature of the tweed it is mounted onto a black brushed cotton and then lined as normal. There is a separating zipper running down the front and two matching short zips on the sleeves.

Linton tweed biker jacket made by Jayne Davie

Mounting a fabric sounds difficult but it is more time consuming rather than difficult- and less time consuming than trying to fix errors from an unstable fabric moving! You can mount onto all kinds of fabrics depending what weight and drape you need. Because this jacket needs a bit of structure a brushed cotton works well, you would normally use cotton domette but because the colour shows through Jayne went with the brushed cotton. If you just want to stabilise without adding any weight we recommend you use silk organza.

linton tweed biker jacket side view made by Jayne Davie
Linton Tweed biker jacket side view showing zip made by Jayne Davie
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Blue and Red Wool Tweed Ulster Coat

Wool Tweed Ulster Coat

Emma from Sweden is wearing her classic wool tweed 1970’s ulster made from the wonderful navy wool tweed she bought in the Autumn. She also made her dog a matching coat! 🙂 She loves the fabric!

The pattern is Very Easy Vogue 8699 from the 1970’s, (see picture). She made the coat a bit longer and wider than the pattern instructed. It’s a simple and straight-forward construction, but a bit unusual as no interfacing at all is used. The most special feature, in our opinion, is the contrast lining that shows on lapels, pockets, belt and sleeve bands. She used a light-weight worsted wool fabric for the lining. There is topstitching around the front and along the raglan sleeve seams.

Wool Tweed Ulster Coat belt detail Wool Tweed Ulster Coat

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Pink Wool Tweed Casual Jacket

pink tweed coat on top of the devon cliff

Bess on top of the South Devon Cliffs wearing her fabulous pink tweed jacket that was made by Jane a couple of Birthday’s ago and still going strong.

The lining is chartreuse satin lining on the sleeves and multicolour chevron printed cotton (quilting weight) for the body. The collar and facings are red jumbo corduroy because Bess didn’t want the tweed against her skin.

Pink Wool tweed jacket with red jumbo cord facings and collar

The design is an old burda fur jacket pattern -somewhat altered! Fur coat patterns are dead easy because they tend to have very boxy simple cuts.

Pink denim jacket with odd buttons
Pink denim jacket with odd buttons

This is basically a remake of a pink denim jacket Bess made earlier – but suitable for the winter. Even the buttons are the same.

 

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Grey Bouclé Tufted Tweed Dress with Velvet Gimp Trim

Jane made this “Channel” inspired dress using a LG tufted bouclĂ© mixed fibre tweed for her daughter Lulu. The pattern is a discontinued Mizrahi vogue pattern that has been altered by adding a sleeve.

The whole dress was quilted to purple silk habotai lining – Jane cut all the pieces bigger and recut after the quilting was done (because the quilting tends to draw the pieces smaller), then a few more lines of quilting were added near the seams once it was sewn. Jane trimmed the neckline and pockets with velvet gimp braid.

tufted bouclé tweed channel dress

 

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Red White and Blue Linton Tweed Coat

red white and blue Linton Tweed Coat

Red Blue and White check Linton Tweed made up in Burda 7041 (sadly discontinued but there are similar). It is quilted in 2″ lines to silk organza for stability and then lined in spotty silk satin. There is black satin piping round the collar and down the front and a heavy chain fixed to the inside hem to help the coat drape (it is particularly heavy so creates a real swing). It fastens edge to edge with a rouleau loops and metal half round buttons.

Bess finished making this coat nearly a year from starting due to some ‘issues’ so it’s a miracle it was ever finished as Bess does not do ‘issues’. Bess makes coats in a day, maybe over 3 days if there are complicated bits to do and she has other things going on. The problem with UFOs (unfinished objects) is once it goes in the pile it rarely escapes. To rectify this Bess hung it on the door and was not allowed to remove it – even though this meant the door couldn’t be closed. The problem that caused such a delay is No1. she used a cheaper silk organza that was heavier than normal which made it substantially heavier than she intended (unfixable). The 2nd thing was she cut the lining too short at the centre back (rectified by piecing in a bit of braid so it didn’t pull up the coat). 3rd, and rather majorly despite her checks matching perfectly at every seam when she tried to hem it it was going up in a spiral and being one check off at the front (rectified by hemming it straight and never looking at the hem thereafter).

 

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Fawn Wool Mix Tweed Fitted Jacket

wool mix with cashmere soft tweed jacket

Anastasia modelling her fabulous fitted jacket made using Burdastyle magazine pattern 112b (from 3/2015). This fabric is jacket weight wool mix with cashmere soft tweed that looks super in such a well fitting little jacket.

one button closure on tweed jacket
one button closure on tweed jacket

slinky poly satin lining on tweed jacket
slinky poly satin lining on tweed jacket

wool mix with cashmere soft tweed suiting
wool mix with cashmere soft tweed suiting

Lined in printed polyester satin :4388

This jacket was made last May and Anastasia has worn it a LOT through Scotland’s not-so hot summer!

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Hand Embroidered and Painted Wool Tweed Skirt

hand embroidered children's drawings onto wool tweed skirt

Bess used her 5 and 8 year old niece’s fabulous drawings as inspiration for the embellishment on this wool tweed A-Line skirt. First she used white fabric paint and then embroidered using a heavy thread and added beads and sequins. It was all done by hand as the tweed is quite a loose weave and she was concerned machine embroidery would make it too stiff (certainly the kind of embroidery Bess has the patience for!).

It is lined in Venezia lining – turned on the lining with no waistband and bound with an ottoman (heavy) bias binding. Strips of Iron on interfacing tape were used to reinforce the back of the areas where the belt loops go. The concealed zip was moved from the back seam to the side so the back could be cut on the fold also. You rarely get any shaping on the back seam so if you have enough fabric to do this (it invariably takes extra on an a-line skirt) you can without brainache.

Bess is very fickle but this is her absolute favourite skirt at the moment.

hand embroidered childre's drawings onto wool tweed skirt
Butterfly

hand embroidered childre's drawings onto wool tweed skirt
house with roof blowing off

hand embroidered childre's drawings onto wool tweed skirt
house flower

hand embroidered childre's drawings onto wool tweed skirt
girl with yellow hair

hand embroidered childre's drawings onto wool tweed skirt
star flower

hand embroidered childre's drawings onto wool tweed skirt
Elsa from frozen with her high heels and plaited hair

hand embroidered childre's drawings onto wool tweed skirt
doodle

hand embroidered childre's drawings onto wool tweed skirt
doodle

hand embroidered childre's drawings onto wool tweed skirt
Pussy Cat

hand embroidered childre's drawings onto wool tweed skirt
house without a door

hand embroidered childre's drawings onto wool tweed skirt
robot

hand embroidered childre's drawings onto wool tweed skirt
star

hand embroidered childre's drawings onto wool tweed skirt
apple tree

hand embroidered childre's drawings onto wool tweed skirt
hem (Hong Kong finish)

hand embroidered childre's drawings onto wool tweed skirt
Belt detail. Don’t look too close at the bias stitching.

hand embroidered childre's drawings onto wool tweed skirt
wiggly worm

 

hand embroidered childre's drawings onto wool tweed skirt
hand embroidered children’s drawings onto wool tweed skirt

 

 

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Linton Tweed Cardigan Jacket with Organza Ruffle

Chanel style jacket in Linton Tweed

Lennie from our Cloth Club made this beautiful cardigan jacket using Linton Tweed and trimming with organza that she ruffled herself. The Vogue Pattern used (V8804) details how to do the traditional quilting that helps to stabilise this very loose weave fabric, there is additional advice in the Claire Shaeffer’s couture sewing techniques book, and we have a leaflet we can send you with tips. It is important to choose a lightweight lining (such as silk crepe de chine) as more stable linings (whilst easier to work with) can stiffen the jacket up too much once quilted; the jacket should remain soft, more like a cardigan).

Fabrics and Notions:

Cardigan jacket type tweed
Ivory Silk Organza (for interlining and trimming)
Silk Crepe de Chine (lining)
Buttons

Pattern: Vogue 8804

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Tweed Cardigan Jacket Style Jacket and Tweed Check Skirt

Chanel Wool Tweed Jacket and Skirt

A rare photo of Jane taken in London wearing her mixed fibre tweed jacket quilted in the traditional cardigan jacket manner with added chain weight and fringe trimmings. Turquoise and chartreuse wool tweed skirt with kick pleat and pink lining (made by Bess).

Fabrics and Notions:
Jacket:
Mixed fibre cardigan jacket type tweed
Printed silk satin lining
Silk organza (just the selvedge, used for staying the edges and hem)
Acrylic fringe trim
Chain
Double cover buttons

Skirt:
Turquoise and chartreuse big check wool tweed
Pink Venezia lining
Pink velvet piping
Invisible zip

 

 

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Viscose Elastane Red Polka Dot T-Shirt and Silk Wool Tweed Pinafore Dress

wool and silk mix tweed pinafore dress and spotty red and white viscose elastane t-shirt

Jessie wearing her red viscose and elastane polka dot t-shirt made by Bess, and Bess wearing her wool and silk tweed pinafore dress with Birdy pockets and circle jersey inserts.
(They were trying to move faster than the camera flash- clearly not fast enough)

Fabrics and Notions:
Jessie wears:
Red polka dot printed viscose elastane jersey
Lightweight knitted iron-on interfacing
Stay tape
Reinforced iron-on stay tape

Bess wears:
Wool and silk tweed pinafore dress
Red polka dot viscose and elastane jersey (pockets and inserts)
Medium weight knitted iron-on interfacing

That T-shirt again, in slight slower motion:

red pinspot viscose and elastane jersey t-shirt
red pinspot viscose and elastane jersey t-shirt

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Tweed Double Cloth Zip Panelled Pinafore Dress

wool tweed double cloth zippy dress

Bess in her prototype tweed dress she made for her final collection with six zips opening up the panels (the zips have extra pullers so can be undone in a multitude of ways for different silhouettes).

Fabrics and Notions:
Laurent Garigue double sided wool tweed in charcoal and ivory
Big spot poly satin
Black continuous zipping with extra pullers
Red grosgrain ribbon
Black fold-over grosgrain binding
Self made wide bias binding
Iron-on reinforced stay tape
Iron-on stay tape

Pattern: Bess’s own (but is a pretty basic panelled shift)

tweed double cloth zippy dress
tweed double cloth zippy dress

wool tweed double cloth continuous zipping dress
wool tweed double cloth continuous zipping dress

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Black and White Cardigan Jacket

Black and White Chanel type tweed suit from Mahlia Kent

Clair wears black and white traditionally made cardigan jacket with matching straight skirt
Fabrics and Notions:
Mahlia black and white mixed fibres tweed
Purple silk habotai lining
Silk thread (for quilting)
Beaded fur trim
Decorative chain (for hem)
Silk organza (stabilising)
Salvaged Chanel ribbon

The trick to making a cardigan jacket look authentic (amongst other tricks) is to cut the sleeves skinny, and tight, up into the arm hole. It may feel like you are going to restrict movement doing this, but in fact the opposite is true. Try it, you will be pleasantly surprised.

Close up of cardigan jacket detailing trims and quilting
Close up of cardigan jacket detailing trims and quilting