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Tulip Print Shift Dress with Wool Crepe Bolero Jacket

tulip statement print poly twill taffeta shift dress and wool crepe bolero jacket

The lovely Anne here in full glory doing the Mother of the Bride thing wearing this statement tulip print poly twill taffeta dress and classic wool crepe bolero jacket.

Anne had help matching the tulips at a sewing class in Bath (the pattern is Vogue 8997). The wool crepe in the bright pink for the jacket was lovely to work with and drapes well (the pattern is Burda 8997).

tulip statement print poly twill taffeta shift dress and wool crepe bolero jacket

 

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Purple Faux Fur Short Jacket

Purple Faux Fur Short Jacket

This luxurious Purple faux fur jacket was made by Pauline using Butterick 6328 pattern, which is illustrated here as overshirts but as you can see works very well in faux fur.

butterick 6328 jacket pattern

The pattern is unlined but Pauline wanted lovely yellow satin inside so she drafted a lining pattern by the following method.

how to make a lining pattern

The neatest and best way to make a lining pattern from an unlined pattern with a facing is to do the following:

Illustration: Piece A = front facing. Piece B = front

First: Trace piece B and cut out.

1. Lay facing (A) over your traced piece (B) matching centre front and shoulder points (red dots). Mark your cutting line onto piece B that will be 2 x seam allowances inside the facing piece (red dotted line), this is usually 3cm (2 x 1.5cm). A tracing wheel or measurement gauge is useful for this job but a simple ruler will work.

2. Cut off the top of piece B beyond the dotted line. This is your new lining piece.

3 Stitch lining B to facing A using the same seam allowance as you used for the alteration.

The same principle goes for whichever piece you want to make a lining for -you need to lay the facing piece on and take off that piece less 2 x seam allowances. It’s a good idea to add a pleat of extra fabric (about 3”) to the back of a coat or jacket, and all linings should be cut fractionally bigger than the outer fabric to add ease.

 

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Pink Wool Tweed Casual Jacket

pink tweed coat on top of the devon cliff

Bess on top of the South Devon Cliffs wearing her fabulous pink tweed jacket that was made by Jane a couple of Birthday’s ago and still going strong.

The lining is chartreuse satin lining on the sleeves and multicolour chevron printed cotton (quilting weight) for the body. The collar and facings are red jumbo corduroy because Bess didn’t want the tweed against her skin.

Pink Wool tweed jacket with red jumbo cord facings and collar

The design is an old burda fur jacket pattern -somewhat altered! Fur coat patterns are dead easy because they tend to have very boxy simple cuts.

Pink denim jacket with odd buttons
Pink denim jacket with odd buttons

This is basically a remake of a pink denim jacket Bess made earlier – but suitable for the winter. Even the buttons are the same.

 

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Red White and Blue Linton Tweed Coat

red white and blue Linton Tweed Coat

Red Blue and White check Linton Tweed made up in Burda 7041 (sadly discontinued but there are similar). It is quilted in 2″ lines to silk organza for stability and then lined in spotty silk satin. There is black satin piping round the collar and down the front and a heavy chain fixed to the inside hem to help the coat drape (it is particularly heavy so creates a real swing). It fastens edge to edge with a rouleau loops and metal half round buttons.

Bess finished making this coat nearly a year from starting due to some ‘issues’ so it’s a miracle it was ever finished as Bess does not do ‘issues’. Bess makes coats in a day, maybe over 3 days if there are complicated bits to do and she has other things going on. The problem with UFOs (unfinished objects) is once it goes in the pile it rarely escapes. To rectify this Bess hung it on the door and was not allowed to remove it – even though this meant the door couldn’t be closed. The problem that caused such a delay is No1. she used a cheaper silk organza that was heavier than normal which made it substantially heavier than she intended (unfixable). The 2nd thing was she cut the lining too short at the centre back (rectified by piecing in a bit of braid so it didn’t pull up the coat). 3rd, and rather majorly despite her checks matching perfectly at every seam when she tried to hem it it was going up in a spiral and being one check off at the front (rectified by hemming it straight and never looking at the hem thereafter).

 

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Amy Butler Printed and Laminated Cotton Raincoat

Julie made up this fabulous Amy Butler print laminated cotton raincoat using Burda 7047. We love the spotty cotton lining and the drawstring waist which gives it just enough shape. Sewing laminated cotton can be a bit of a challenge, if you find it sticking to your feed dogs and not feeding through the sewing machine properly tear off strips of tissue paper and sandwich the fabric between the strips, it will then tear off when you are done.

 

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Pink Denim Skirt and Jacket with Lace Trim

Jane made this Denim jacket and matching skirt with stretch pink denim for Kitcat. It is trimmed in black lace (because Kitcat is 9 going on 19). The skirt is a great little pattern from Burda (9480) – the back was made slightly wider so elastic could be put in. The Jacket was an utter nightmare – BEWARE OF INDIE PATTERNS DOWNLOADED FROM THE INTERNET! She eventually got there though! And Kitcat is very pleased.

Topstitched with two poly sew all threads run through the same eye of the needle (a trick that is far easier and reliable than using topstitching thread, we have found). The coloured jeans buttons are riveted in.

The belt was made by Harlequin (you send them the fabric and hey presto!)

pink denim jacket and matching mini skirt
pink denim jacket and matching mini skirt
lime green and pale pink denim jackets
lime green and pale pink denim jackets
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Silk Posh Frock

pposh silk satin frock with fitted jacket

Rowena being a very glam Mother of the Groom in her black and magenta abstract print silk satin flared dress and matching dupion silk fitted jacket. She was a busy bee as she also made her hat and bag plus grooms men’s cravats and hankies. Also her daughter in law’s lace gown (which she beaded!) her veil and headdress.

Blimey! Now she is off to do some gardening. 

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Wind in the Willow inspired Velvet Outfits.

Kitcat and Miaow (having been told to smile)* wearing cotton velvet fitted jacket, yellow dogtooth fitted jacket, acetate crushed velvet plus-fours and a dogtooth check waistcoat, all made by Jane (the granny) for a trip to Chatsworth House for their Wind in the Willows themed Christmas decorations.

Despite over two years between them their size difference is negligible so these outfits are interchangeable.

They both like wearing them around the office, too.

wine red cotton velvet jacket
wine red cotton velvet jacket
yellow dogtooth stretch suiting jacket
yellow dogtooth stretch suiting jacket
velvet plus fours and jacket with a dogtooth check waistcoat
velvet plus fours and jacket with a dogtooth check waistcoat
Wine red cotton velvet from Neideck
Wine red cotton velvet from Neideck
yellow dogtooth stretch suiting
yellow dogtooth stretch suiting
Green crushed Velvet
Green crushed Velvet

*I shall save these ‘smiling’ pics for their 18th birthdays. That’ll learn ’em.

 

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Fawn Wool Mix Tweed Fitted Jacket

wool mix with cashmere soft tweed jacket

Anastasia modelling her fabulous fitted jacket made using Burdastyle magazine pattern 112b (from 3/2015). This fabric is jacket weight wool mix with cashmere soft tweed that looks super in such a well fitting little jacket.

one button closure on tweed jacket
one button closure on tweed jacket
slinky poly satin lining on tweed jacket
slinky poly satin lining on tweed jacket
wool mix with cashmere soft tweed suiting
wool mix with cashmere soft tweed suiting

Lined in printed polyester satin :4388

This jacket was made last May and Anastasia has worn it a LOT through Scotland’s not-so hot summer!

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Navy Corded Lace Shrug

Navy corded lace shrug with scalloped edges

Debbie modelling her shrug made using navy corded lace with scalloped edges.  She was very pleased with it as it really updated a dress she had had for a long time.  She drafted the pattern using a short sleeved shrug she already had as a pattern. Debbie had to do a bit of juggling with the scallops and hand stitching so that they would go around the curves but was glad with the finished effect. It turned out a little tight across the back and around the armholes but wasn’t a problem when it was worn for a posh event as was still able to dance in it!

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Child’s Fur Coat with Bunny Rabbit Print Lining

Child's fur coat with bunny rabbit print lining

Jane and Elwen made this sooo sweeet fur coat using Burda 9501 pattern, They lined it in bunny rabbit print quilting cotton and used toning toggle buttons. There is no interfacing -not even on the button holes which Jane insists is fine and they didn’t need it. She can break the rules because she has been sewing for about a thousand years.

Child's fur coat with bunny rabbit print lining
Love the way even her name-tag tones!

 

Child's fur coat with bunny rabbit print lining
Child’s fur coat with bunny rabbit print lining

 

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Brocade Desigual Inspired Coat

Desigual inspired brocade embellished coat

Lulu wearing her Desigual inspired coat made by Jane using an assortment of brocade suitings, odd buttons and various trims. She used an old Vogue pattern (V2005) which has been made up a number of times for Lulu in various fabrics and always works. It is lined in vivid chartreuse green satin lining with a fine line of turquoise satin piping.

I suppose if you were a hoarder you could make this coat out of your stash, but we were playing with all the fabulous brocades that had just arrived at the shop (If you can’t pick one pick them all). She did manage to use up an assortment of trims that were appliquéd in various designs over the coat. Jane used a mismatch of various Vintage buttons, doubling them up when we couldn’t get exactly the right thing.

 

 

 

 

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Technicolour Chevron Jacket

missoni chevron wool mix fabric

This is Jacoba wearing her woven Italian Designer jacket, she said, “I am very pleased with it even if it is a little wide on the shoulders. I used Vogue 8933 but changed how the collar fastened at the end. It was too high for me in the original style despite my long neck so I just let the fabric go where it wanted to fold over- it seems to work and I have had huge compliments from all :-). I love the huge wooden poppers. It does lend itself to being worn solely with black – bright even by my standards!!”

This Italian Designer is a woven fabric with more stability than the knitted, it lends itself well to this type of jacket where you have no fiddly pockets, or such like.

Find more Italian Designer fabrics HERE

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Red Linton Tweed Cardigan Jacket

Red Linton Tweed

Ann-Marie here modelling her fabulous red Linton Tweed jacket, in keeping with the traditionally made cardigan jacket she quilted the fabric onto some silk lining, this not only stabilises the tweed but also strengthens the whole jacket. A cardigan jacket should be soft and cardigan like, with no heavy interfacing, there is a fair amount of hand stitching (a swear word in some circles) that needs to be done, but the results of the hard effort is amazing.

You can find lots more cardigan jacket type tweeds HERE

 

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Pink Denim Jacket

Pink denim jacket with odd buttons

Pink Denim #4993 jacket with odd buttons and superhero printed quilting weight cotton lining made by Bess.

Bess was a bit concerned about the level of ‘pink’ in this denim so chose to tone it down (her words) with a non-girly lining and a mixture of buttons in the hope that it makes it more versatile (she works on the basis that ONE of those buttons will match a colour in her outfit.

The pattern is an ancient Burda fur coat pattern -somewhat altered !

pink denim jacket with super hero printed lining
pink denim jacket with super hero printed lining
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Linton Tweed Cardigan Jacket with Organza Ruffle

Chanel style jacket in Linton Tweed

Lennie from our Cloth Club made this beautiful cardigan jacket using Linton Tweed and trimming with organza that she ruffled herself. The Vogue Pattern used (V8804) details how to do the traditional quilting that helps to stabilise this very loose weave fabric, there is additional advice in the Claire Shaeffer’s couture sewing techniques book, and we have a leaflet we can send you with tips. It is important to choose a lightweight lining (such as silk crepe de chine) as more stable linings (whilst easier to work with) can stiffen the jacket up too much once quilted; the jacket should remain soft, more like a cardigan).

Fabrics and Notions:

Cardigan jacket type tweed
Ivory Silk Organza (for interlining and trimming)
Silk Crepe de Chine (lining)
Buttons

Pattern: Vogue 8804

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Alpaca and Wool Boucle Knit Jacket and Wool Crepe Skirt

Alpaca knit jacket and wool crepe skirt

Dolly wearing Alpaca and wool mix bouclé cardigan jacket with bluebell blue wool crepe A-Line skirt. To stabilise the loose weave of the jacket Jane mounted it on to cotton muslin before sewing. Made by Jane for Kath.

Fabrics and Notions:

Alpaca wool and acrylic cardigan jacket type tweed/knit #3197
Cotton Muslin (interlining)
Ivory silk double crepe (lining)
Blue satin bias binding (piping)
Blue lacquered coconut buttons

Bluebell wool crepe
Invisible zip
Velvet ready made piping
Venezia lining
3mm ribbons for trimming hem

 

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Stretch Cotton Jacket and Elephant Print Viscose Skirt

flippy viscose skirt and marcy tilton jacket

Rachel wearing stretch cotton jacket with embossed squares, eyelet tape and various trims, and elephant printed floppy viscose panelled skirt.

Fabrics and Notions:

Jacket:
Black embossed stretch cotton
Black hatch print Linen (border/collar)
Velvet ribbon
Suedette eyelet tape
Haematite beads
Machine embroidery

Pattern: Marcy Tilton (discontinued)

Skirt:
Elephant print viscose
Medium weight knitted iron-on interfacing
Invisible zip

flippy viscose skirt
flippy viscose skirt
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Boiled Wool Waterfall Unlined Jacket and Cotton Waffle Trousers

boiled wool waterfall jacket

Rachel (from classes) wearing her turquoise boiled wool waterfall jacket with red wool binding, and Paddy Campbell off-white cotton waffle wide leg trousers.

Fabrics and Notions:

Jacket:
Turquoise boiled wool
Red wool fold-over binding

Trousers:
Paddy Campbell off-white cotton waffle
Zip
Knitted iron-on interfacing

Patterns:
Jacket, McCall’s 5937
Trousers, Vogue 8717

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Tweed Cardigan Jacket Style Jacket and Tweed Check Skirt

Chanel Wool Tweed Jacket and Skirt

A rare photo of Jane taken in London wearing her mixed fibre tweed jacket quilted in the traditional cardigan jacket manner with added chain weight and fringe trimmings. Turquoise and chartreuse wool tweed skirt with kick pleat and pink lining (made by Bess).

Fabrics and Notions:
Jacket:
Mixed fibre cardigan jacket type tweed
Printed silk satin lining
Silk organza (just the selvedge, used for staying the edges and hem)
Acrylic fringe trim
Chain
Double cover buttons

Skirt:
Turquoise and chartreuse big check wool tweed
Pink Venezia lining
Pink velvet piping
Invisible zip

 

 

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Quilted Hooded Jacket with Worsted Wool and Jersey Draped Skirt

quilted jersey jacket and jersey draped skirt

Becky modelling Lucinda’s quilted cotton hooded jacket  with laser cut leaf embellishments, and worsted wool shaped yoke with jersey draped skirt (made using the Julian Roberts sub-cutting method)

Fabrics and Notions:
Skirt:
Marble print viscose and elastane jersey
Chocolate brown English worsted wool
Red viscose and elastane jersey
Invisible zip

Jacket:
Dyed calico
Laser cut leaves from ultrasuade, jersey and calico
Blue viscose (lining)
Wadding
Cotton bias binding

T-shirt:
Viscose elastane jersey

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Orange Boiled wool Unlined Jacket

orange boiled wool unlined jacket

Carole from our Cloth Club wearing her orange boiled wool unlined and unstructured jacket

Fabrics and Notions:
Burnt orange 100% boiled wool
Pattern: Butterick 4707 (modified)

Boiled wools vary in thickness and quality and thus vary in care instructions too – despite what the name suggests, a boiled wool with a high wool content is unlikely to be washable (they shrink to Tiny Tears Dolly size in one wash).

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Black and White Cardigan Jacket

Black and White Chanel type tweed suit from Mahlia Kent

Clair wears black and white traditionally made cardigan jacket with matching straight skirt
Fabrics and Notions:
Mahlia black and white mixed fibres tweed
Purple silk habotai lining
Silk thread (for quilting)
Beaded fur trim
Decorative chain (for hem)
Silk organza (stabilising)
Salvaged Chanel ribbon

The trick to making a cardigan jacket look authentic (amongst other tricks) is to cut the sleeves skinny, and tight, up into the arm hole. It may feel like you are going to restrict movement doing this, but in fact the opposite is true. Try it, you will be pleasantly surprised.

Close up of cardigan jacket detailing trims and quilting
Close up of cardigan jacket detailing trims and quilting
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Turquoise Corduroy Boxy Jacket

turquoise cotton corduroy jacket

Bess wearing her turquoise corduroy jacket with big 1960’s buttons and lined in Kaffe Fassett printed cotton.

Fabrics and Notions:
Turquoise corduroy
Kaffe Fassett printed cotton
Big 1960’s period buttons
Jeans rivets
Bias binding
Black stayflex cotton iron on interlining

5 years on (not pictured) Red grosgrain foldover binding (around cuffs to cover fraying)