Bess wanted a lightweight but warm jacket so used grey herringbone cotton poly and elastane -it’s a medium weight, the sort that would make lightweight chino type trousers, then she quilted silk crepe de chine (in the brightest coral colour possible) to wool wadding. The results are a super snuggly jacket that feels like you are putting on a duvet (if you ever wondered what the definition of hygge is, this jacket is it)
Whilst the outer fabric is not waterproof it is a tight enough weave to not get wet through in a brief shower.
The pattern is the Kelly Anorak by Closet Case Patterns, the instructions and drafting is simply brilliant. Bess shortened it and hacked the collar and hood pieces to enable both (the hood folds away into the collar)
Jane made this amazing military style jacket from two different brocades and a piqué textured jacket weight wool. The pattern is Vogue 7975 with some major/minor adaptations to make it more military looking (the pattern is classic Chanel style jacket). It is lined in fabulous electric blue silk seersucker satin.
The lovely Bernie from French France made this amazing silk mix brocade up in a fitted skirt suit for a family wedding, both the patterns are tried and tested, they originally came out of the Burda sewing magazines- the dress from March 2001 and the jacket from sometime in 2012. Isn’t she fabulous? Here we have proof that style never goes out of fashion 🙂
The hat was made for her using a scrap of the brocade in a local hat shop in Pézenas. Perfection 🙂
This is the beautiful and talented Anna who made her wonderful self drafted jacket using a heavy worsted twill weave suiting . Cavalry twill is a superb fabric to use as jackets, the tight dense weave is good at repelling wind and rain, and the weight is perfect to allow for precise tailoring.
The lovely Anne here in full glory doing the Mother of the Bride thing wearing this statement tulip print poly twill taffeta dress and classic wool crepe bolero jacket.
Anne had help matching the tulips at a sewing class in Bath (the pattern is Vogue 8997). The wool crepe in the bright pink for the jacket was lovely to work with and drapes well (the pattern is Burda 8997).
Emma sent us this pic of her brilliant jacket and trousers combo using an ex designer tweedy wool flannel check for the jacket with leather accents, and worsted wool for the trousers. She cuts the patterns herself (our customers are clever aren’t they?)
This luxurious Purple faux fur jacket was made by Pauline using Butterick 6328 pattern, which is illustrated here as overshirts but as you can see works very well in faux fur.
The pattern is unlined but Pauline wanted lovely yellow satin inside so she drafted a lining pattern by the following method.
The neatest and best way to make a lining pattern from an unlined pattern with a facing is to do the following:
Illustration: Piece A = front facing. Piece B = front
First: Trace piece B and cut out.
1. Lay facing (A) over your traced piece (B) matching centre front and shoulder points (red dots). Mark your cutting line onto piece B that will be 2 x seam allowances inside the facing piece (red dotted line), this is usually 3cm (2 x 1.5cm). A tracing wheel or measurement gauge is useful for this job but a simple ruler will work.
2. Cut off the top of piece B beyond the dotted line. This is your new lining piece.
3 Stitch lining B to facing A using the same seam allowance as you used for the alteration.
The same principle goes for whichever piece you want to make a lining for -you need to lay the facing piece on and take off that piece less 2 x seam allowances. It’s a good idea to add a pleat of extra fabric (about 3”) to the back of a coat or jacket, and all linings should be cut fractionally bigger than the outer fabric to add ease.
Bess on top of the South Devon Cliffs wearing her fabulous pink tweed jacket that was made by Jane a couple of Birthday’s ago and still going strong.
The lining is chartreuse satin lining on the sleeves and multicolour chevron printed cotton (quilting weight) for the body. The collar and facings are red jumbo corduroy because Bess didn’t want the tweed against her skin.
The design is an old burda fur jacket pattern -somewhat altered! Fur coat patterns are dead easy because they tend to have very boxy simple cuts.
This is basically a remake of a pink denim jacket Bess made earlier – but suitable for the winter. Even the buttons are the same.
Red Blue and White check Linton Tweed made up in Burda 7041 (sadly discontinued but there are similar). It is quilted in 2″ lines to silk organza for stability and then lined in spotty silk satin. There is black satin piping round the collar and down the front and a heavy chain fixed to the inside hem to help the coat drape (it is particularly heavy so creates a real swing). It fastens edge to edge with a rouleau loops and metal half round buttons.
Bess finished making this coat nearly a year from starting due to some ‘issues’ so it’s a miracle it was ever finished as Bess does not do ‘issues’. Bess makes coats in a day, maybe over 3 days if there are complicated bits to do and she has other things going on. The problem with UFOs (unfinished objects) is once it goes in the pile it rarely escapes. To rectify this Bess hung it on the door and was not allowed to remove it – even though this meant the door couldn’t be closed. The problem that caused such a delay is No1. she used a cheaper silk organza that was heavier than normal which made it substantially heavier than she intended (unfixable). The 2nd thing was she cut the lining too short at the centre back (rectified by piecing in a bit of braid so it didn’t pull up the coat). 3rd, and rather majorly despite her checks matching perfectly at every seam when she tried to hem it it was going up in a spiral and being one check off at the front (rectified by hemming it straight and never looking at the hem thereafter).
Julie made up this fabulous Amy Butler print laminated cotton raincoat using Burda 7047. We love the spotty cotton lining and the drawstring waist which gives it just enough shape. Sewing laminated cotton can be a bit of a challenge, if you find it sticking to your feed dogs and not feeding through the sewing machine properly tear off strips of tissue paper and sandwich the fabric between the strips, it will then tear off when you are done.
Jane made this Denim jacket and matching skirt with stretch pink denim for Kitcat. It is trimmed in black lace (because Kitcat is 9 going on 19). The skirt is a great little pattern from Burda (9480) – the back was made slightly wider so elastic could be put in. The Jacket was an utter nightmare – BEWARE OF INDIE PATTERNS DOWNLOADED FROM THE INTERNET! She eventually got there though! And Kitcat is very pleased.
Topstitched with two poly sew all threads run through the same eye of the needle (a trick that is far easier and reliable than using topstitching thread, we have found). The coloured jeans buttons are riveted in.
The belt was made by Harlequin (you send them the fabric and hey presto!)
Bree was pleased as punch with this jacket she made in record time entirely on her sewing machine (no cheating with an overlocker), it is a blue cotton sweatshirting with multicolour flecks, she used McCall’s pattern 6844. FABULOUS!
Rowena being a very glam Mother of the Groom in her black and magenta abstract print silk satin flared dress and matching dupion silk fitted jacket. She was a busy bee as she also made her hat and bag plus grooms men’s cravats and hankies. Also her daughter in law’s lace gown (which she beaded!) her veil and headdress.
Julie cheering up the drab winter at the shop in her fuchsia pink boiled wool coat. The edges are bound with fold-over binding. This coat is unlined, the boiled wool has plenty of body to it so it holds its shape nicely.
Kitcat and Miaow (having been told to smile)* wearing cotton velvet fitted jacket, yellow dogtooth fitted jacket, acetate crushed velvet plus-fours and a dogtooth check waistcoat, all made by Jane (the granny) for a trip to Chatsworth House for their Wind in the Willows themed Christmas decorations.
Despite over two years between them their size difference is negligible so these outfits are interchangeable.
They both like wearing them around the office, too.
*I shall save these ‘smiling’ pics for their 18th birthdays. That’ll learn ’em.
Anastasia modelling her fabulous fitted jacket made using Burdastyle magazine pattern 112b (from 3/2015). This fabric is jacket weight wool mix with cashmere soft tweed that looks super in such a well fitting little jacket.
Lined in printed polyester satin :
This jacket was made last May and Anastasia has worn it a LOT through Scotland’s not-so hot summer!
Debbie modelling her shrug made using navy corded lace with scalloped edges. She was very pleased with it as it really updated a dress she had had for a long time. She drafted the pattern using a short sleeved shrug she already had as a pattern. Debbie had to do a bit of juggling with the scallops and hand stitching so that they would go around the curves but was glad with the finished effect. It turned out a little tight across the back and around the armholes but wasn’t a problem when it was worn for a posh event as was still able to dance in it!
Jane and Elwen made this sooo sweeet fur coat using Burda 9501 pattern, They lined it in bunny rabbit print quilting cotton and used toning toggle buttons. There is no interfacing -not even on the button holes which Jane insists is fine and they didn’t need it. She can break the rules because she has been sewing for about a thousand years.
Tracey (in French France) made this fabulous boxy cardigan jacket using the wool and cotton Laurent Garigue bouclé knit. She quilted it by hand (as per tradition) to black Venezia lining and used lead weighted piping on the hem to make it hang nicely.
Lulu wearing her Desigual inspired coat made by Jane using an assortment of brocade suitings, odd buttons and various trims. She used an old Vogue pattern (V2005) which has been made up a number of times for Lulu in various fabrics and always works. It is lined in vivid chartreuse green satin lining with a fine line of turquoise satin piping.
I suppose if you were a hoarder you could make this coat out of your stash, but we were playing with all the fabulous brocades that had just arrived at the shop (If you can’t pick one pick them all). She did manage to use up an assortment of trims that were appliquéd in various designs over the coat. Jane used a mismatch of various Vintage buttons, doubling them up when we couldn’t get exactly the right thing.
This is Jacoba wearing her woven Italian Designer jacket, she said, “I am very pleased with it even if it is a little wide on the shoulders. I used Vogue 8933 but changed how the collar fastened at the end. It was too high for me in the original style despite my long neck so I just let the fabric go where it wanted to fold over- it seems to work and I have had huge compliments from all :-). I love the huge wooden poppers. It does lend itself to being worn solely with black – bright even by my standards!!”
This Italian Designer is a woven fabric with more stability than the knitted, it lends itself well to this type of jacket where you have no fiddly pockets, or such like.
Ann-Marie here modelling her fabulous red Linton Tweed jacket, in keeping with the traditionally made cardigan jacket she quilted the fabric onto some silk lining, this not only stabilises the tweed but also strengthens the whole jacket. A cardigan jacket should be soft and cardigan like, with no heavy interfacing, there is a fair amount of hand stitching (a swear word in some circles) that needs to be done, but the results of the hard effort is amazing.
You can find lots more cardigan jacket type tweeds HERE
Bess was a bit concerned about the level of ‘pink’ in this denim so chose to tone it down (her words) with a non-girly lining and a mixture of buttons in the hope that it makes it more versatile (she works on the basis that ONE of those buttons will match a colour in her outfit.
The pattern is an ancient Burda fur coat pattern -somewhat altered !
Carole from our cloth club wearing her lightweight wool melton jacket using McCalls pattern M5668 which she chose due to their being no buttonholes and only the sleeves are lined. (Carole thinks she is a novice but we think she undersells herself).
Lennie from our Cloth Club made this beautiful cardigan jacket using Linton Tweed and trimming with organza that she ruffled herself. The Vogue Pattern used (V8804) details how to do the traditional quilting that helps to stabilise this very loose weave fabric, there is additional advice in the Claire Shaeffer’s couture sewing techniques book, and we have a leaflet we can send you with tips. It is important to choose a lightweight lining (such as silk crepe de chine) as more stable linings (whilst easier to work with) can stiffen the jacket up too much once quilted; the jacket should remain soft, more like a cardigan).
Dolly wearing Alpaca and wool mix bouclé cardigan jacket with bluebell blue wool crepe A-Line skirt. To stabilise the loose weave of the jacket Jane mounted it on to cotton muslin before sewing. Made by Jane for Kath.
Fabrics and Notions:
Alpaca wool and acrylic cardigan jacket type tweed/knit #3197
Cotton Muslin (interlining)
Ivory silk double crepe (lining)
Blue satin bias binding (piping)
Blue lacquered coconut buttons
A rare photo of Jane taken in London wearing her mixed fibre tweed jacket quilted in the traditional cardigan jacket manner with added chain weight and fringe trimmings. Turquoise and chartreuse wool tweed skirt with kick pleat and pink lining (made by Bess).
Fabrics and Notions: Jacket:
Mixed fibre cardigan jacket type tweed
Printed silk satin lining
Silk organza (just the selvedge, used for staying the edges and hem)
Acrylic fringe trim
Double cover buttons
Turquoise and chartreuse big check wool tweed
Pink Venezia lining
Pink velvet piping
Boiled wools vary in thickness and quality and thus vary in care instructions too – despite what the name suggests, a boiled wool with a high wool content is unlikely to be washable (they shrink to Tiny Tears Dolly size in one wash).
Clair wears black and white traditionally made cardigan jacket with matching straight skirt
Fabrics and Notions:
Mahlia black and white mixed fibres tweed
Purple silk habotai lining
Silk thread (for quilting)
Beaded fur trim
Decorative chain (for hem)
Silk organza (stabilising)
Salvaged Chanel ribbon
The trick to making a cardigan jacket look authentic (amongst other tricks) is to cut the sleeves skinny, and tight, up into the arm hole. It may feel like you are going to restrict movement doing this, but in fact the opposite is true. Try it, you will be pleasantly surprised.
Jane wearing a linen jacket to Bess’s wedding, made with pink and green panels, embellished with machine embroidery.
Fabrics and Notions:
Fuchsia Pink & Lime green heavy washed linen
Small self-cover buttons
Satin bias binding and piping cord
Viscose iron-on interfacing
Pattern: Custom made
Allow 10% shrinkage for all your washable natural fibres (including viscose). Wash before making up in the same manner as you would with subsequent washes (including drying methods).
Jerseys and fabrics liable to mis-shape should be dried flat, or in a cool tumble dryer.
Most fabrics should be pressed before cutting.
If in doubt about care instructions please CONTACT US