Tag: Linen

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Nani IRO printed Linen Karl Lagerfield for Vogue Dress

nani IRO print linen from Kokka made up using Vogue 1412 Karl Lagerfield sewing pattern

Jane made up this old Karl Lagerfield pattern FINALLY after it lurking in the pattern drawer for nearly 20 years. The Linen is the Japanese designer nani IRO for Kokka. Jane had a bit of tweaking to get it right – too small on the bust but massive everywhere else – such as life goes with a pattern for the first time, but having been altered it is now PERFECT 😊

It’s got pockets!

It is lined in Venezia faced with extra light interfacing and there is a concealed zip up the back. The pattern is Vogue 1412 (long since discontinued but possibly available second hand).

Rudi the Siamese cat has to be in the photo too. Even if he didn’t get his ‘best side’.

nani IRO print linen from Kokka made up using Vogue 1412 Karl Lagerfield sewing pattern

 

 

 

 

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Navy Linen and Sorona Mix Kalle Shirt

Sorona and Linen mix closet case patterns Kalle Shirt

Sue (from French France) made this fabulous linen and Sorona mix shirt using the Closet Case Patterns ‘Kalle Shirt’, Sorona is a new fibre made from corn starch that we hope will take off because added to linen it adds a fabulous softness and suppleness (less creases! Yayy!!). Sue used a bias maker to make the spotty inside collar.

 

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Colour Block Shift Dress

linen colour block shift dress

Pamela sent us this photo after a season of wearing this self proclaimed favourite dress made up from her stash of heavy linen. Aside from the generally pleasing aesthetics of a colour block dress you get to do some quality stash busting. Win/Win! For the best results use like fabrics (weight/drape) and make sure they are colour fast for the cleaning. It’s a good idea to use those colour catcher sheets you put in the machine as a precaution.

She made it up again in Green (which we love) but the yellow remains the favourite.

green linen colour block dress

 

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Green Linen Coat with Grosgrain Trim

washed heavy linen green coat

Bess made this heavy washed green linen coat on a weekend retreat by staying up practically all night for two nights and not skiving at all. She had even come prepared with her two grosgrain trims sewn to each other already and the pattern fully adjusted to fit and toile tweaked.

The linen had been pre-washed 5 times to eliminate excess dye that could leach onto the cotton grosgrain, and the dry clean only Liberty crepe de chine silk lining is also pre-washed (it’s okay).

There are no shoulder pads but a bit of semi-tailored interfacing around the chest area is used to improve the structure (along with cuffs, facings and pockets), all the trimmings were hand sewn so as not to change the drape.

washed heavy linen green coat washed heavy linen green coat washed heavy linen green coat washed heavy linen green coat washed heavy linen green coat

 

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Raspberry Heavy Washed Linen for Mother-of-the-Groom Dress

Raspberry Heavy Washed Linen for Mother-of-the-Groom Dress

Here is Andy (the Mother of the Groom) wearing a fabulous raspberry heavy washed linen dress made for her by Anna Ash of  I ❤️ Sewing .

raspberry heavy washed linen Lynn Mizono dress

The pattern is Vogue V1410 which has a wrap front rather than a front opening. The whole point of dressmaking is making exactly what you want* so of course these details are for us to alter!Vogue V1410 Lynn Mizono dress pattern

*when I say we dressmake to get exactly what we want I mean within reason. We cannot alter patterns to remove a middle-age spread, or dropped shoulders, or [enter personal body hang-up here]. But we can dressmake to disguise these things.

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Brown Floral Linen Mix Shirt

Shirley made this floral print linen and cotton shirt after a long hiatus in sewing (I’m wondering if this is Shirley’s sewing after a break how good was it before?!). Cut with a v-neck band and 3/4 sleeves, this shirt is a great Summer wardrobe staple.

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Aqua and Black Frigate Bird Dress

Bess made this super fine linen dress with black bird print for her holiday in Tobago, it’s made using her basic block with just the shaping from bust darts and a centre back seam. Nicknamed the frigate bird dress as the print is similar to the ubiquitous birds of the Caribbean.

It is unlined and the neck is bound with super lightweight satin bias binding.

 

 

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Hand Sewn Silk Chiffon Shirt

hand sewn Alice in Wonderland silk shirt

Ruscha sporting her hand sewn silk chiffon shirt, which we at the Stone Fabrics headquarters are in awe of. She insists that it didn’t take that long to make and is a more enjoyable way to sew (she can sit in the garden and tinker away without noise). However it was made it is amazing. We love the mix of the two colour ways.

Also seen: linen and lycra stripey jersey skirt

ruscha-silk-shirt-2

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Possibly the Poshest Embroidered Linen Dress in the World

embroidered and hand painted Italian linen dress

Jane’s amazing embroidered Italian Linen dress. This fabric is hand painted on top of the embroidery and doesn’t come cheap –it’s enlightening to discover what things cost when they are made properly and the artisans are paid a fair wage.

With such an amazing fabric you only need a very simple shift pattern, Jane used her block which just has bust darts, front darts and back darts so there was minimal chopping up of the pattern.

The fabric truly is stunning.

embroidered and hand painted Italian Linen
embroidered and hand painted Italian Linen

 

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Hand Painted Spots on Irish Linen Skirt

hand painted spotty Irish linen skirt

Not content with the £33mt fabulous blue Irish shirting weight Linen, Bess (with clearly too much time on her hands) hand painted spots all over it before making up this much loved A-line skirt.

hand painted Irish Linen
hand painted Irish Linen
hand painting spots onto Irish Linen
hand painting spots onto Irish Linen (Wine is obligatory for this task)

There are belt loops sewn around the top and a length of picot edge petersham ribbon added as a belt.

picot edge petersham ribbon belt on Irish Linen skirt
picot edge petersham ribbon belt on Irish Linen skirt

The skirt is lined (Hong Kong style) with Cotton lawn and fastened with an invisible zip on the side.

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Linen T-Shirt with Wide Leg Trousers

White linen jersey and black heavy viscose

Bess wearing a white linen jersey raglan sleeved t-shirt with ‘modesty’ panel, and black viscose pique wide leg trousers.

Bess has a bit of a linen jersey obsession, this is the fourth (at least) she made of these tops in as many weeks. This was lined in a bandeau panel with a very stable white cotton jersey, the same jersey was used to bind the neck.

The trousers were made from a stash of Viscose, a slightly piqué weave cloth that drapes beautifully but has a lot of ‘substance’. There’s a fly and button closure and then ribbons that tie to the side.

Both patterns are fairly unrecognisable from their origins, but the trousers were Burda 8087 and the top is Burda 6990

You can find other linen jerseys HERE, the viscose trousering is kind of unique, we will buy more if we ever see it, but you will get a similar drape with Worsted Wool suitings

 

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Linen Jersey Camisole and Spotty Linen A-Line Skirt

Linen Jersey Camisole and spotty print linen A-line skirt

Bess on top of the world wearing linen jersey camisole and red and white spotty linen skirt. The camisole pattern was made by drawing round an existing vest. The front and the back are the same which makes it super easy to construct (no markings!), Soft elastic binding was used for the straps, Bess made a few of these for her holiday and got the making time down to 20 minutes. The skirt was made a few years ago (fabric long since sold out 🙁 ), due to the linen being so fine Bess lined it with white ‘Riviera’ lawn. Double belt loops were attached to hold a decorative saddle stitch grosgrain belt. She’s had a lot of use out of this skirt.

You can find lots of Linens HERE

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Laminated Cotton Hooded Raincoat with Pink Linen Trousers

spotty laminated cotton raincoat

Jane (the boss lady) wearing her laminated cotton pink spotty raincoat with stripe yoke and contrasting spotty lining with detachable hood, and pink linen fly-front trousers.

Fabrics and Notions:

Jacket:
Pink and turquoise spotty laminated cotton #3021
Pink and turquoise stripe laminated cotton #3022
Anbo spotty American printed cotton.
Separating turquoise chunky zip.
Dyed turquoise shell buttons.
Clear plastic back buttons.

Trousers:
Pink heavy linen
7″ Dress and skirt zip
2 x buttons
Viscose iron-on Interfacing

Patterns:
Jacket: (discontinued) Anna Sui for Vogue #2424
Trousers: Burda 2938

There is no interfacing or stabilising in this jacket as the laminated cotton is very stable. Jane rarely makes things for herself, or in this kind of fabric and has been frequently saying, “I’m really pleased with that jacket!”. It makes all this rain ALMOST bearable.

spotty laminated cotton raincoat
spotty laminated cotton raincoat

 

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Vintage Vogue Cotton Dress and Linen Jacket

Vintage Vogue cotton dress with linen bolero jacket

Lulu wearing vintage Vogue dress made with swimmers printed cotton and pink linen bolero, all made by Jane.

Fabrics and Notions:
Dress:
Swimmers print cotton
Riviera cotton lawn lining
Cover buttons
Covered belt
Bias binding

Pattern: Vintage Vogue V2960

Bolero:
Pink Heavy Linen
Swimmers print cotton
Button
Piping

Cotton poplin Vintage Vogue dress and linen bolero
Cotton poplin Vintage Vogue dress and linen bolero
Cotton poplin Vintage Vogue dress and linen bolero
Cotton poplin Vintage Vogue dress and linen bolero
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Proofed Linen Quilted Coat

proofed linen panelled zippy coat

Maddison modeling Bess’s proofed linen coat (quilted with wool wadding) with wiggly eye epaulettes. Zipping in the panels and sleeves undo to reveal white proofed linen pleats.

Fabric and Notions:
Chartreuse proofed linen
White proofed linen
Wool wadding
Black continuous zipping
wiggly eye buttons
Black cotton grosgrain
Spot printed viscose acetate lining
Cover buttons
Pocket zips
Eyelets (umbrella pocket)
Viscose iron-on interfacing

Pattern: Bess’s own

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Purple Embroidered Linen Shift Dress

embroidered linen shift dress

Dee wears this elegant purple embroidered linen mix shift dress
Fabrics and Notions:
String embroidered linen mix
Purple Venezia lining
Medium weight knitted iron-on interfacing
Invisible zip

It is a good idea to make a toile (a roughly made up dress in inexpensive fabric) when making a shift dress with this flattering wide neck style so that it doesn’t gape. A toile is ALWAYS a good idea when making up a pattern you haven’t tried before, but it is especially important for this neckline which has a tendency to gape. Dee made this up beautifully.

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Turquoise Silk and Linen Wedding Dress

silk and linen mix shift wedding dress

Lulu wearing her lovely silk and linen shift wedding dress, holding her daughter, Kitcat, in her printed cotton seersucker ruffled dress and matching headband. Gemma to her right wears an embroidered cotton bridesmaid dress.

Fabrics and Notions (Lulu):
Turquoise silk and linen
Silk habotai lining
Silk organza feather trim
Invisible zip
Iron-on lightweight interfacing

Fabrics and Notions (Gemma):
Embroidered lightweight cotton
Venezia lining
Invisible zip
Lightweight iron-on interfacing

Fabrics and Notions (KitCat)
Printed cotton seersucker
Cotton lawn (lining and collar))
Button
Extra-Lightweight knitted iron-on interfacing

The silk organza trim gave Lulu’s dress just the touch of something special she wanted for her wedding dress without making it too impractical or unsuitable to wear at subsequent posh do’s. A shift is the most flattering of dress, and easy to make fit really well.

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Beaded Linen Wedding Dress

quartz beaded white linen wedding dress

Bess’s amazing quartz-crystal covered white linen cap-sleeve a-line dress. (made by Jane)
Fabrics and Notions:
White heavy washed linen.
4kg quartz crystal bead chips
Stretch silk satin (bodice lining)
Covered boning
Fine white Riviera cotton lawn (skirt lining)
Red satin bias and fine piping cord
Invisible zip
Lightweight knitted iron-on interfacing
Pattern: Custom made

The beading on this very special dress took three months by Jane (and her small army of helpers), the whole dress weighed so much Bess had to give in to Jane’s request that she be allowed to bone it (Bess doesn’t like being contained), as without boning the weight was pulling down and giving her a flat chest. The boning and the waist stays, although on a stretch satin foundation, were enough to support the dress.

Bess in quartz crystal beaded linen wedding dress
Bess in quartz crystal beaded linen wedding dress
Bess in quartz crystal beaded linen wedding dress
Bess in quartz crystal beaded linen wedding dress
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Smocked White Linen Baby Dress

smocked linen baby dress

Kitcat modelling smocked white linen dress with lined sunhat (Made by Jane)
Fabrics and Notions:
White medium weight linen
Pink and green embroidery threads
White cotton Riviera lawn (lining)
Self-cover buttons

Traditional smocking is time consuming and quite tricky to do well. It is important you pick a fabric that has an even and straight weave, and that markings are done incredibly accurately. It is becoming a lost art, and should be encouraged as it is lovely (and practical)