Lindy made New Look 6560 wrap blouse in lovely parasol print 100% Pima cotton lawn, she used view C, lengthened it by an inch and added a flounce. It has ties which she integrated into the top instead of having one loose one. Really pleased with it. It’s fabulous.
Anyone who follows Tina on Instagram (@sewimpatient) will know everything she makes is divine, this Zadie Jumpsuit by Paper Theory Patterns is no exception. The linen is mixed with cotton, viscose and sorona – sorona adds a superb softness and elasticity to the fibre and makes a super comfortable and stylish fabric. It’s made from corn!.
Corinne used McCall’s M7324 pattern to make up this superfine digitally printed floral silk satin blouse – the repeat on this fabric was 90cm so was fun for placing the print in a waterfall / ombre effect. Fabulous.
Lindy used this vivid sapphire blue wool and cashmere mix coating to make up the Tessuti patterns Oslo coat – the fabric is gorgeously soft to the touch and is semi-felted which made it a great choice for this unstructured style. Lindy lined it in silk. ❤️
Lindy chose this brilliant jacquard jersey to use for McCall’s M6886 dress pattern and it is truly delightful. It is lined with tricot jersey to give it a bit more body and to save wearing a slip. This dress is DIVINE 😍
Fiona (lovely as it seams) made this absolutely fabulous heavy washed navy linen parachute skirt dungaree dress – self drafted. Isn’t it fabulous? Perfect eyelets! Perfect everything. She’s a very clever girl and I want her skillzzzz.
Bonus points to Sally for an excellent evaluation of these trousers:
Now – what did I think about the Itch-to-Stitch cargoes? I previously made a dress from them (Oia pattern) for my sister-in-law, which was fabulous. The pattern was very well designed and the instructions were so good that even this very beginner sewer succeeded. So I had high hopes for the Sequoia Cargoes. But in all honesty I am slightly disappointed. Why?
Sizing. Based on her chart I’m half way between a 6 and 8 based on hip and a size 10 for waist. Two toiles later, I wound up cutting the pattern halfway between a 6 and 8 for everything except for the waist which I actually graded DOWN to a size 6. Very illogical. The overall fit works fairly well on me – better than any other trouser patterns I have tried. I generally have to modify the crotch pattern based on a pair of RTW jeans that I like the fit of.
The instructions have some anomalies. The zip insertion is strange.
With a 1″ wide zip, the second stitch line would be on the very edge of the zipper tape. And anyway, why would you want the first stitch line/fold not closer to the teeth? I emailed Kerris at Itch-to-Stitch to question this instruction. She didn’t really understand the problem and advsed me to follow her instructions for putting a zip in jeans. I had already put the zip in my toile using my tried and test jeans zipper insertion method. It worked fine, but created a problem later with the sizing of the left and right waist band pieces. So I cut those pattern pieces larger in order to make it all come together right.
The Waistband is ribbing folded around a 1″ elastic. Following this instruction results in the seam joining the waistband intersecting the zig zag stitch. So half the zig zag is visible in the waistband. Again I asked Kerris about this and she pointed out it was a basting stitch and therefore gets removed. But it is not really feasible to remove this zig zag stitch when it is run through with a seaming stitch. So I did the zig zag higher up the waist band. After I inserted the waistband I decided I liked the look of the zig zag running through the middle of the ribbing so I left it in as a design feature.
Finishing the seam allowances: Given my choice of fabric (very prone to fraying) I struggled. I don’t have an overlocker – would love one but just don’t have the space to set it up. So I zig zagged the seam allowances. Not a great finish. Be interesting to see how they wash up.
Overall impressions of the look: I didn’t include the side pockets or the leg straps. I also didn’t put poppers on the back pocket flaps as I felt they were too heavy for the fabric. I wanted a wider leg but find the legs a bit wider than I would have liked. And I think the back pocket flaps are too large. I think a heavier fabric would better suit this pattern. Perhaps even something with some stretch. Will I make another pair? Probably not.
Bess made this shirt a couple of years ago for her much worse half using a Burda magazine pattern – it was a surprise for the Linen wedding anniversary and it took him a few months to actually wear it because the bib bit (according to Rob) “is a girl’s blouse” (🙄). Anyone else have this trouble with their spouses?! Bess swore she would never make anything for him ever again but then he started wearing it (it takes these boys a while to come round to the idea that we are right) and now it’s his favourite -along with another shirt in the same pattern.
Sorona mixed with linen is a lovely combo as it softens the linen and reduces the creasing -which is a good thing because Rob is scared of Bess’s gravity fed iron and Bess isn’t about to do his ironing 😉 . The colour has held true after many, many washes and unlike pure linen it doesn’t wear at the cuffs so quickly.
Sorona fibre is a new fibre made from Corn, it is a supple and stretchy filament that is mainly being marketed at performance wear.
The buttons (barely seen) are upside down abalone shell buttons, the interfacing (not seen!) is the H0023 lightweight knit which stabilises the linen enough for a button hole and collar but allows it to stay soft and floppy.
The lovely Anne made up our teal stretch babycord as a panelled A-line skirt and the bug print cotton poplin as a fun blouse. The sewing is impeccable (of course!) -beautifully turned collar, perfectly straight waistband… she’s a great sewer who kept herself busy during lockdown making a fabulous new wardrobe.
Black Denim jacket fabulousness made here by Sue in France, the denim is a 9.5oz washed Cotton – heavy enough for a jacket but not too heavy so as to cause tears whilst topstitching on a domestic sewing machine. As the jacket is unlined all the seams on the inside are beautifully finished with Bias Binding.
The Pattern is the Sienna Jacket by Close Core Patterns (used to be Closet Case Patterns)
I keep looking at this jacket thinking shall I? Shan’t I? Do I really need a new jacket. Yes. I absolutely do! I do need a new jacket!
Dark Purpley Blue and Black irregular spot printed tencel twill made up by Sue using the Merchant and Mills Edie top pattern. Tencel has the loveliest drape (like a heavy sandwashed silk) and this pattern with it’s gathered sleeves is just perfect for it. We love it ❤️
We are so loving this candy pink shift dress made up by Wendy in a scrumptious lightweight linen and (you can’t see it but trust us, it’s there) a fab leafy green cotton voile lining. The pattern is the Simplicity Jiffy 1252 which we have seen made up in so many fabrics and always looks great.
This superb leopard print Japanese linen shirt was made by the lovely AND talented Jennifer, she gets lots of compliments when wearing it (of course she does – it’s brilliant!). The Pattern is the Kalle Shirt by Closet Core patterns. She left us to pick the buttons and was pleased with our choice. (we went with bright blue to pick out the accented colour).
Bess used this fabulous nearly black suiting for her Bleuet Dress (by Deer and Doe Patterns), the fabric has a great drape and hardly creases despite the natural fibres so is perfect for a close fitting dress (so you don’t get those unsightly crease lines across the tummy). Bess highly recommends the pattern – it all went together beautifully. We especially like the closely placed buttons which allows for some fun with choices, she used up all manner of mismatched dyed shell buttons which she said was only a fraction of extra brain power when doing the button holes (different sizes!).
Despite loving the back waistline bow on the toile Bess was worried she would feel foolish in a bow (she’s not a bow kind of girl), an epiphany in the shower (it’s always in the shower!) came with the idea of using a slider buckle instead – same shape and idea as a bow, but without the prissiness. Her primary excuse for making this was she needed a “plain black semi-respectable dress” – despite the multi colour buttons and the not quite black of the fabric this sort of fulfilled her brief 😊
How glorious is this yellow dobby cotton voile sundress? As the fabric on it’s own was a little too see-through Angela lined it with cotton muslin. The pattern is based on McCall’s 7407, Angela says she’s going to make a tie belt to wear with it sometimes but thinks it will be very good loose in the hot weather! (definitely!)
This is Claire’s favourite dress – made using a great quality abstract squiggle print viscose twill, the pattern is Named Clothing Reeta shirtdress, beautifully finished with matching buttons and pink twill tape on the inside for the waist casing (which she left up to us to pick for her and was super pleased).
Andrea made this superb Agnes top (by Tilly and the Buttons) using a medium weight jacquard knit – just look at that lovely binding! The jersey is super soft and Andrea said it was lovely to work with (so much so she’d like a dress in it too).
Annie made this lovely knitted jacket using blush pink cotton mix jumper knit, the pattern was See and Sew B6120 (out of print) – due to the nature of the knit she left the darts out (unnecessary), used snap fasteners and added a collar (perfect 👌).
Jane made this super child’s coat using aubergine boiled wool and heavy needlecord for the collar (so there’s no complaints of itchy!). The pattern is Vogue V9043. The coat is lined with viscose twill coat lining and finished with shank buttons.
George (aptly named) made these fire breathing dragon print cotton jersey PJ’s for her littlest Godson, so much fun to be had with the glow in the dark flames 😊. All sewn on an ancient Singer 338 which all goes to prove those of us with fancy overlockers and coverstitch machines need to raise our game somewhat 🙄.
She left the choosing of buttons to us which is a nerve-wracking experience for us but you can always return buttons if they are not right. Buttons are such a personal thing. We went with the nautilus shell buttons which are an artwork all to themselves.
Paula is such a regular with us we know her telephone number and address off by heart but it took a Pandemic to eventually get a photo of her! This photo was taken on the week she should have been in Milan then Lake Como, and here is one of the planned outfits for shopping in Milan, guess it will have to wait until next year now 😞
This is Sally with her Jeans and a T-Shirt classic and all round perfect combo using cheerful rainbow stripe cotton and elastane jersey (using the Grainline Studio Lark Tee pattern) and an unusual and super long lasting blue crosscut stretch corduroy. The cords are half copied / half self drafted to get the perfect fit – we are not going to deny it’s a palaver top get jeans to fit but oh so worth the effort.
This is Catharine (a longstanding Cloth Club Member) who sent us these photos of her “Signature Dress” in cotton voile which, obviously, we love. She said, “Couldn’t help but call this my signature dress! Pattern is vogue 9100 and only change was that I fully lined it (not just bodice) with the riviera cotton lawn as the voile needs something underneath.
Sue used mid weight cotton twill for this fabulous romper suit with contrast accents in a fun sausage dog print cotton lawn. The dress is using the twill for the accents and a geo floral cotton poplin for the main. Such fun, and such a fabulous thing to be able to do for your grandchildren 😊
The pattern is Burda 9712 (there’s also a little jacket, a sun hat and trousers)
Julie looking fantastic in this superfine stripe navy lightweight linen Zadie Jumpsuit. Such a great pattern that works on so many figures – Julie has made adjustments to allow for her hourglass shape (FBA, for example) and says she will do further tweaks next time (we can’t see anything that needs changing but we are our own worst critics)
Lock down sewing with a topical message “if you can read this you are too close!” hand embroidered down the leg in glow in the dark thread. The Linen is our perennially popular washed Damiel linen which has a heavy but drapey handle and works brilliantly for this style trouser. The pattern is self drafted from a basic straight leg long trouser pattern – Bess added fabric to the side seams and then darted the legs in at the bottom and on the knee. They are super comfy to wear and work on both hot and cold days (ie any British Summer day).
Angela made this fabulous shirt using a tried and tested (understatement of the week) vintage pattern from 1949 – it is Butterick 6020. Such simple and clean lines work so well with these modern Japanese prints. The fabric is Kokka linen and viscose mix – it’s a medium weight fabric with a fair bit of drape.
Julie needed a ‘posh frock’ for a winter wedding and wool crepe fitted the bill nicely. Wool crepe will tailor so beautifully and is a joy to work with. It is warm in the cold and cool in the heat so a perfect choice for those occasions when you are half outside in the freezing cold and then indoors with the fires blazing.
The dress is lined in Venezia lining – a breathable anti-static lining that is soft and drapey like the crepe
Bess loves how the Ogden Cami (by True Bias) doesn’t slip off her shoulders like most camisoles do – that’s some clever drafting. As a c-cup she just about gets away without doing a dart in it so long as the fabric is super light and drapey (like this viscose lawn is). It is also great how you can make a useful versatile top out of a tiny bit of fabric!
Whilst you should always wash fabric on the lowest temperature possible to preserve the life of it Bess pre-washes her viscose on 40˚C to get rid of any shrinking (something viscose is very good at doing!)
Marion looking superb in this dress made for her by Dawn of Hardy and Hooper (Maidenhead). The abstract stripey print on this fine wool crepe is perfect for the asymmetric lines of this dress. (Pattern developed by Hardy and Hooper). The dress is lined in Venezia (as all lovely dresses should be)
Teddy the chocolate Burmese cat here modelling his super burnt orange viscose jersey elasticated collar. Made by Jessie in a jiffy with the tiniest of scrap. Teddy thinks he looks fantastic (he’s right)
Who doesn’t get cheered up looking at this brilliant cartoon print? Rachel is not one to shy away from colour and looks ace in this perfectly fitting cotton canvas A-Line skirt. It is lined in Venezia to keep it looking perfect all day long.
Julie is on a quest for the perfect T-Shirt which she has trouble with due to boobage. Having to do an FBA to every pattern you get is a pain but the reason why we sew for ourselves is to get the fit right, right? If you ever need to do an FBA Julie is the girl to talk to!
This jersey is a linen mix knit which has resulted in a lovely fit. She thinks there is still work to do but we love it.
Jane (who used to come to classes back when we did classes) made this fab fit and flare floral print dress for a family wedding. The fabric is somewhat stretchy which made aspects of this dress tricky but with patience and perseverance she got there (we are always available for advice when needed). It is lined in Venezia which helped a lot in making the dress behave itself. Venezia is so soft and breathable it is perfect for lining summery dresses that would otherwise lose their shape. Even the pale colours are perfectly opaque.
This is the @theassemblylineshop#talpuffshirt using a buttery soft black lightweight black linen. It so soft it almost feels like very fine wool. Susie is really pleased with it. The Assembly Line are so clever with their classic and slightly unusual designs. Susie is not one to usually see herself in a puff sleeve blouse but it’s not too puffy and loves the hidden cuff idea, and the envelope neck reminds her of all the easy to put on baby clothes her five children wore.
Peacocks have inspired print designers for centuries and here we have yet another rendition made up beautifully by Sarah into this fabulous and easy to wear gathered floaty viscose dress. Finished with superfine bias binding and narrow velvet ribbon.
The very lovely and clever Daphne made this super jacket out of designer leopard tufted wool mix – this is a pretty heavy coating weight so there are skillz here to manipulate and tailor it into this jacket. Fabtastic
We love this fabulous peasant shirt made by Alexa using a supersoft washed lightweight white linen and embroidered with navy contrast zigzag stitching. It is the #roscoeblouseanddress pattern by @truebias . As well as the stitching being aesthetically pleasing it helps to keep this very lightweight woven fabric stabilised without using facings (like a heavy duty stay-stitch). Beautiful.
My husband Denis in his ‘stone fabrics’ shirt. As mentioned on the phone, spot the deliberate mistake, cuff and placket the wrong way round, must do better next time.
The fabric is pale blue babycord that we sourced from a well known British designer . The pattern is Burda 7045, the collar from view A and used a darker blue trim for the inside of the sleeve placket edge and the collar.
We didn’t spot the deliberate mistake – 10/10 Janet!
Who new at the beginning of 2020 we would madly be making scrubs? We have a lot of customers who had to very quickly put their dressmaking skills to something a little more utilitarian. This is the super dapper Mark, the husband of Cloth Club member Lynn who made him these cotton drill scrubs (pattern taken from For The Love of Scrubs facebook group) to wear at the doctor’s surgery when it was deemed necessary for all the medical staff to wear PPE.
Linda completed this beautiful printed satin skirt just in time for #virtualfrocktails with @sew_scottish. The skirt is the @mccallpatterncompany v8222 and has been work in progress for 2 years! It’s taken so long as she never really had an occasion or time to finish it. The Coronavirus lockdown has allowed her to complete it. (there’s a little bit of good in everything)
Julie is on her endeavours to find the perfect T-Shirt- this time re-drafting it with a slight cowl neck (she was hoping for more drape but this is lovely). The fabric is a fab bubble texture mid-weight jersey with moderate 2-way stretch.
To use our fast and efficient swatch service please read the guidelines HERE
Allow 10% shrinkage for all your washable natural fibres (including viscose). Wash before making up in the same manner as you would with subsequent washes (including drying methods).
Jerseys and fabrics liable to mis-shape should be dried flat, or in a cool tumble dryer.
Most fabrics should be pressed before cutting.
If in doubt about care instructions please CONTACT US