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Parasol Printed Pima Lawn Wrap Blouse

Lindy made New Look 6560 wrap blouse in lovely parasol print 100% Pima cotton lawn, she used view C, lengthened it by an inch and added a flounce. It has ties which she integrated into the top instead of having one loose one. 
Really pleased with it. It’s fabulous.

New Look 6560 wrap top with ruffle paper dressmaking patttern
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Floral Print Silk Blouse

digital floral print silk blouse McCall's M7324

Corinne used McCall’s M7324 pattern to make up this superfine digitally printed floral silk satin blouse – the repeat on this fabric was 90cm so was fun for placing the print in a waterfall / ombre effect. Fabulous.

digital floral print silk blouse McCall's M7324
digital floral print silk blouse McCall’s M7324
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Stripey Tee and Tencel Cargos

itch to stitch tencel denim cargoes & stripey viscose and elastane lark t-shirt

Sally made her tried and tested lark tee in super stretchy viscose jersey, and tencel and cotton denim cargo pants using the Itch to Stitch Sequoia Cargo pattern

Bonus points to Sally for an excellent evaluation of these trousers:

Now – what did I think about the Itch-to-Stitch cargoes?  I previously made a dress from them (Oia pattern) for my sister-in-law, which was fabulous.  The pattern was very well designed and the instructions were so good that even this very beginner sewer succeeded.  So I had high hopes for the Sequoia Cargoes.  But in all honesty I am slightly disappointed.  Why?

Sizing.  Based on her chart I’m half way between a 6 and 8 based on hip and a size 10 for waist.  Two toiles later, I wound up cutting the pattern halfway between a 6 and 8 for everything except for the waist which I actually graded DOWN to a size 6.  Very illogical.  The overall fit works fairly well on me – better than any other trouser patterns I have tried.  I generally have to modify the crotch pattern based on a pair of RTW jeans that I like the fit of.

The instructions have some anomalies.  The zip insertion is strange. 

With a 1″ wide zip, the second stitch line would be on the very edge of the zipper tape.  And anyway, why would you want the first stitch line/fold not closer to the teeth?  I emailed Kerris at Itch-to-Stitch to question this instruction.  She didn’t really understand the problem and advsed me to follow her instructions for putting a zip in jeans.  I had already put the zip in my toile using my tried and test jeans zipper insertion method.  It worked fine, but created a problem later with the sizing of the left and right waist band pieces.  So I cut those pattern pieces larger in order to make it all come together right.

The Waistband is ribbing folded around a 1″ elastic.  Following this instruction results in the seam joining the waistband intersecting the zig zag stitch.  So half the zig zag is visible in the waistband.  Again I asked Kerris about this and she pointed out it was a basting stitch and therefore gets removed.  But it is not really feasible to remove this zig zag stitch when it is run through with a seaming stitch.  So I did the zig zag higher up the waist band.  After I inserted the waistband I decided I liked the look of the zig zag running through the middle of the ribbing so I left it in as a design feature.

Finishing the seam allowances:  Given my choice of fabric (very prone to fraying) I struggled.  I don’t have an overlocker – would love one but just don’t have the space to set it up.  So I zig zagged the seam allowances.  Not a great finish.  Be interesting to see how they wash up.

Overall impressions of the look: I didn’t include the side pockets or the leg straps.  I also didn’t put poppers on the back pocket flaps as I felt they were too heavy for the fabric.  I wanted a wider leg but find the legs a bit wider than I would have liked. And I think the back pocket flaps are too large.  I think a heavier fabric would better suit this pattern. Perhaps even something with some stretch.  Will I make another pair?  Probably not.

Thank you Sally!

itch to stitch tencel denim cargoes & stripey viscose and elastane lark t-shirt
itch to stitch tencel denim cargoes & stripey viscose and elastane lark t-shirt
itch to stitch tencel denim cargoes & stripey viscose and elastane lark t-shirt
itch to stitch tencel denim cargoes & stripey viscose and elastane lark t-shirt
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Peacock Blue Linen and Sorona Shirt

peacock linen and sorona mix shirt

Bess made this shirt a couple of years ago for her much worse half using a Burda magazine pattern – it was a surprise for the Linen wedding anniversary and it took him a few months to actually wear it because the bib bit (according to Rob) “is a girl’s blouse” (🙄). Anyone else have this trouble with their spouses?! Bess swore she would never make anything for him ever again but then he started wearing it (it takes these boys a while to come round to the idea that we are right) and now it’s his favourite -along with another shirt in the same pattern.

Sorona mixed with linen is a lovely combo as it softens the linen and reduces the creasing -which is a good thing because Rob is scared of Bess’s gravity fed iron and Bess isn’t about to do his ironing 😉 . The colour has held true after many, many washes and unlike pure linen it doesn’t wear at the cuffs so quickly.

Sorona fibre is a new fibre made from Corn, it is a supple and stretchy filament that is mainly being marketed at performance wear.

The buttons (barely seen) are upside down abalone shell buttons, the interfacing (not seen!) is the H0023 lightweight knit which stabilises the linen enough for a button hole and collar but allows it to stay soft and floppy.

peacock linen and sorona mix shirt
peacock linen and sorona mix shirt
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Bug Print Shirt with Babycord A-Line Skirt

anne wearing handmade babycord skirt and poplin shirt

The lovely Anne made up our teal stretch babycord as a panelled A-line skirt and the bug print cotton poplin as a fun blouse. The sewing is impeccable (of course!) -beautifully turned collar, perfectly straight waistband… she’s a great sewer who kept herself busy during lockdown making a fabulous new wardrobe.

anne wearing handmade babycord skirt and poplin shirt
anne wearing handmade babycord skirt and poplin shirt
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Black and Blue Spotty Tencel Blouse

Blue and Black spotty print tencel MErchant and Mills Edie blouse

Dark Purpley Blue and Black irregular spot printed tencel twill made up by Sue using the Merchant and Mills Edie top pattern. Tencel has the loveliest drape (like a heavy sandwashed silk) and this pattern with it’s gathered sleeves is just perfect for it. We love it ❤️

Blue and Black spotty print tencel MErchant and Mills Edie blouse
Blue and Black spotty print tencel MErchant and Mills Edie blouse

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Leaping Leopards Print Kalle Shirt

yellow leaping leopard print Japanese Linen Closet Core Kalle Shirt

This superb leopard print Japanese linen shirt was made by the lovely AND talented Jennifer, she gets lots of compliments when wearing it (of course she does – it’s brilliant!). The Pattern is the Kalle Shirt by Closet Core patterns. She left us to pick the buttons and was pleased with our choice. (we went with bright blue to pick out the accented colour).

yellow leaping leopard print Japanese Linen Closet Core Kalle Shirt
yellow leaping leopard print Japanese Linen Closet Core Kalle Shirt
Mid Blue 10mm 4 hole shirt button with engraved black rim
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Olive Linen Stripe Trousers and Top

Paula stood under tree in garden wearing olive stripe linen matching trousers and top

Paula is such a regular with us we know her telephone number and address off by heart but it took a Pandemic to eventually get a photo of her! This photo was taken on the week she should have been in Milan then Lake Como, and here is one of the planned outfits for shopping in Milan, guess it will have to wait until next year now 😞

The fabric is an olive green wide chalk stripe linen and viscose mix, it’s a light to medium weight linen with reasonable drape whilst remaining stable enough for those stripes to stay straight.

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Red Viscose Printed Ogden Cami

red viscose printed ogden cami by True Bias

Bess loves how the Ogden Cami (by True Bias) doesn’t slip off her shoulders like most camisoles do – that’s some clever drafting. As a c-cup she just about gets away without doing a dart in it so long as the fabric is super light and drapey (like this viscose lawn is). It is also great how you can make a useful versatile top out of a tiny bit of fabric!

Whilst you should always wash fabric on the lowest temperature possible to preserve the life of it Bess pre-washes her viscose on 40˚C to get rid of any shrinking (something viscose is very good at doing!)

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Bell Sleeve Black Linen Tunic

bell sleeve linen smock top

This is the  @theassemblylineshop #talpuffshirt using a buttery soft black lightweight black linen. It so soft it almost feels like very fine wool. Susie is really pleased with it. The Assembly Line are so clever with their classic and slightly unusual designs. Susie is not one to usually see herself in a puff sleeve blouse but it’s not too puffy and loves the hidden cuff idea, and the envelope neck reminds her of all the easy to put on baby clothes her five children wore.

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Supersoft Lightweight Linen Peasant Shirt with Contrast Stitching

Supersoft lightweight linen Peasant shirt made by Alexa

We love this fabulous peasant shirt made by Alexa using a supersoft washed lightweight white linen and embroidered with navy contrast zigzag stitching. It is the  #roscoeblouseanddress pattern by @truebias . As well as the stitching being aesthetically pleasing it helps to keep this very lightweight woven fabric stabilised without using facings (like a heavy duty stay-stitch). Beautiful.

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Hand Painted Paint Splatter T-Shirt in Cotton Jersey

hand painted paint splatter t-shirt

Getting 100% Cotton Jersey for t-shirts is harder than it should be, then we get too many metres in one colour so Bess painted a load of this cream with flicks of a paint brush with fabric paint, and then made this T-shirt for her sister Lulu. The pattern is an ancient Vogue Elements hoody pattern V9926 (we still have an out-of-print copy if you would like one)

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Loose-weave Geometric Print Cotton Shirt

chartreuse and turquoise geometric print gauze cotton shirt butterick 6070

This is Carole wearing this super loose-weave cotton shirt using the Butterick 6070 which she has used several times as the buttonholes are hidden behind the placket.  Great if your buttonholes have the occasional wobble!

This cotton is super soft with a gauzey jacquard type weave (unusual), it resists creasing and is great to wear in the hot weather as the drape tends to hold it off the body.

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Aubergine Spotty Silk Blouse

aubergine spot silk chiffon blouse

The lovely Celia sent us this pic of her wearing her p blouse using a spotty print silk chiffon blouse, the pattern is Vogue 1385, and she says was technically straightforward as it consisted of only 5 pattern pieces.  However, the neckline tucks were very time consuming as the dart markings were on the facings as well as the main pattern pieces and the two had to be aligned exactly.  Very fiddly!  

Worth the effort Celia- beautiful Blouse, thanks for sharing!

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Navy and Multicolour floral Linen Mix Wrap Tunic

navy floral viscose and linen wrap tunic

The wonderful Pamela here in her wrap front tunic top made out of a light – medium weight linen and viscose mix – a great blend that gets its drape from the viscose and the coolness and structure from the linen, it’s perfect for this top. We love the proportions of this tunic- the length, the little sleeves, the way Pam has used plain navy to define the wrap neckline. Superb!

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Black and White Pinstripe Hoody

Black Pinstripe double wool jersey hoody

Bess made this hoody from an old Burda pattern on the day before going off to a festival and realising she had nothing warm for the evenings. Being somewhat busy she got up a bit early and made it before breakfast – even though it was a pattern she hadn’t used before (needed to be cut out)/there were patch pockets that needed to go on evenly/stripes to match/zip to be inserted. We would like to say it was Bess’s skillz as a dressmaker but most of the credit needs to go to this lovely double wool jersey that behaved soooo nicely.

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Eye Print Cotton Poplin Sleeveless Shirt

evil eye print cotton poplin

Bess made up this sleeveless shirt using a fabulous eye print poplin cotton. The pattern is taken and amended from an old White Stuff shirt, the buttons are wiggly eye buttons but how long they will last is debatable as she keeps ironing over them!

As the poplin is very stable and Bess wanted the shirt as light as possible no interfacing was used apart from down the front placket so the button holes would be stabilised.

Whilst Bess lined up the front and back when cutting out no attempt was made to match the pattern. It actually does match where the yoke meets the back piece but that was an accident.

 

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Strawberry Print T-Shirts (a pair of strawberry tarts)

a pair of strawberry print t-shirts

When we received the email entitled ‘a pair of strawberry tarts’ we weren’t quite sure what we were opening. 🙀

This is Rachel and Rachel wearing their matching strawberry print cotton and elastane jersey t-shirts along with wolfy the dog (whippet the whippet was locked outside after rolling in fox excrement).

This is possibly our favourite catwalk photo EVER ❤️❤️❤️

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Rainbow Print Viscose T-Shirt

rainbow stripe print viscose jersey t-shirt

Bess couldn’t resist this dichroic glass mirror in Amsterdam for a selfie of her rainbow print viscose T-Shirt (pattern drafted from a fallen apart Great Plains linen T-Shirt). The neck is bound with the same jersey and a stay tape is inserted on the shoulder seam to keep it stable.

Photobomb of Kitcat was unavoidable.

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Navy Linen and Sorona Mix Kalle Shirt

Sorona and Linen mix closet case patterns Kalle Shirt

Sue (from French France) made this fabulous linen and Sorona mix shirt using the Closet Case Patterns ‘Kalle Shirt’, Sorona is a new fibre made from corn starch that we hope will take off because added to linen it adds a fabulous softness and suppleness (less creases! Yayy!!). Sue used a bias maker to make the spotty inside collar.

 

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Feather Print T-Shirt

feather print cotton and elastane t-shirt

Bess made up this feather print T-Shirt for her little sister using lovely stable Cotton and Elastane Jersey with lots of stretch that makes the binding on the neck a cinch. Plus there is the added bonus that as the fabric is so wide and Lulu is such a squinge Bess can make up the entire thing out of 80cm. Bonus!

The hems are done with a simple zigzag because Bess hates the coverstitch machine.

cotton and elastane t-shirt neck binding

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Taupe Geometric Print Polyester Satin Vest Top

self-drafted lightweight polyester satin vest top

Trish came to the shop wearing her fabulous taupe geometric print polyester satin vest top, she self drafted the pattern (clever old sticks our customers are).

This top is as versatile as a top can be – perfect for a trip to the shops but equally at home dressed up with some snazzy trousers for a wedding. Pattern heaven!

 

 

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Jersey Mock Wrap Top and Maxi Skirt

jersey mock wrap top and maxi skirt

Sue had never sewn jersey before so approached this project with a little trepidation, a few days later she was showing off her skills with both the white wrap top made in cotton and elastane jersey and the maxi skirt made in multicolour digital print lightweight viscose and elastane jersey. I think it is fair to say Sue is approaching jersey with a little less trepidation now 😉

 

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Digital Print Viscose Jersey Wrap T-Shirt

Digital print viscose jersey wrap t-shirt

Jane busy sampling wearing her digital print viscose jersey mock wrap t-shirt made by Bess. The Pattern is Kay Unger for Vogue V1519 which has a cap sleeve, Bess used the sleeve off another top (that just so conveniently fitted) so as to have a longer one.

As it was quite a complicated design and tricky to see the sizing so Bess made a toile first in cheaper jersey. The wrap part is lined in viscose jersey and Bess used turquoise stretch piping on the neck to keep the tension and shape. There were lots of pleats and tucks that were carefully marked, and whilst Bess truly did intend to follow the instructions she forgot after a while, but it came out okay.  Hoorah!

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Green School Jumper

green cotton and modal school jumper

Miaow told Jane that she didn’t want her to make her school jumper because she was too slow, she wanted Bess to make it…. which was a cunning plan of a 7 year old to get granny proving otherwise. The jumper was made the very same day as the request, and in the post for her to parade around the school and stand corrected. Made with supersoft Modal, Cotton and Elastane jersey (lightweight sweatshirting) with stay tape on the shoulders.

Pattern: converted from jacket on McCall’s 7044 which is out of print but there are others similar.

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Dragon Print Cotton Culottes

dragon print cotton culottes

Bernie in the South of France wearing her blue and cream dragon print cotton culottes made using a pattern taken from the Burda magazine no 195, March 2016. She made adjustments (intentionally) and took out the pleat in the front simply by seaming it down.  The culottes were finished by then but felt they were far too wide so rather than disturb the good fit over the hips and waist she just took out the fullness by stitching the pleat down as a seam and then cutting away the surplus, an overall difference of several inches.  Bernie did have to undo the waistband for a few inches on each side to do the job properly.  Then (unintentionally as when using the overlocker to finish these extra seams she got the back caught up in it thus making a hole!) made a similar seam down the centre back of each leg of the culottes, no more than an inch or so of width, and is very pleased with the result. (HOORAH!)

As for to the top, it is made from some lightweight organic cotton jersey and the pattern is an amalgam of several for a far too complicated reason to explain!  Let’s just say it is a t-shirt!

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Alphabet Print Viscose and Elastane Jersey

alphabet print viscose jersey

Jessie wearing black and multicolour alphabet print viscose and elastane jersey T-Shirt made by Bess for her Christmas Present (has been worn to death since!). The pattern was taken from a favourite Jaeger Breton T-Shirt so it was designed for heavier interlock type jersey but works very well in this slinky viscose jersey. The square neck is interfaced with extra-light iron on interfacing H0019 and the back neck and shoulder seam has a stabilising tape sewn in so they do not stretch out of shape.