Bess loves how the Ogden Cami (by True Bias) doesn’t slip off her shoulders like most camisoles do – that’s some clever drafting. As a c-cup she just about gets away without doing a dart in it so long as the fabric is super light and drapey (like this viscose lawn is). It is also great how you can make a useful versatile top out of a tiny bit of fabric!
Whilst you should always wash fabric on the lowest temperature possible to preserve the life of it Bess pre-washes her viscose on 40˚C to get rid of any shrinking (something viscose is very good at doing!)
This is the @theassemblylineshop#talpuffshirt using a buttery soft black lightweight black linen. It so soft it almost feels like very fine wool. Susie is really pleased with it. The Assembly Line are so clever with their classic and slightly unusual designs. Susie is not one to usually see herself in a puff sleeve blouse but it’s not too puffy and loves the hidden cuff idea, and the envelope neck reminds her of all the easy to put on baby clothes her five children wore.
We love this fabulous peasant shirt made by Alexa using a supersoft washed lightweight white linen and embroidered with navy contrast zigzag stitching. It is the #roscoeblouseanddress pattern by @truebias . As well as the stitching being aesthetically pleasing it helps to keep this very lightweight woven fabric stabilised without using facings (like a heavy duty stay-stitch). Beautiful.
Julie usually makes beach bags to sell (they are exceptional), but she had a lot of fun making this up in floral print cotton and poly mix french terry jersey. There is no elastane so the stretchiness is fairly minimal. Julie sewed it all on her trusty sewing machine.
Lynn made this fabulous jumper using cotton mix jumper knit and the Mandy Boat Tee pattern by Tessuti. The fabric seamed stable enough so the neck seam is just turned over with no stay tape- super simple, easy and effective. ❤️
Daiga (who is a long standing member of our Cloth Club) did a grand job on this fabulous jade green stretchy velour top with a twist front using McCall’s pattern M7975. A perfect accompaniment to dress up a pair of jeans, or to go with a flippy, drapey skirt. We love! ❤️❤️❤️
Janet made this fabulous loose fit cardigan using a washable cotton and wool blend jumper knit WITH POCKETS! the pattern is Simplicity 8468 redrafted to lose the collar and get a closer (less coat like) fit
Getting 100% Cotton Jersey for t-shirts is harder than it should be, then we get too many metres in one colour so Bess painted a load of this cream with flicks of a paint brush with fabric paint, and then made this T-shirt for her sister Lulu. The pattern is an ancient Vogue Elements hoody pattern V9926 (we still have an out-of-print copy if you would like one)
Alice made this banana print sweatshirting into a hoody for her bananaphile daughter, Lizby. The pattern is Style Arc Josie, the only changes she made was to line the hood with a contrast ochre jersey and to omit the drawstring around the hem.
Pamela here in the fabulous textured cloqué jersey top made using the Style Arc Fran top (her tried and tested pattern). It’s so good when you get your TNT pattern sorted and can make it up in all sorts of things.
This is Carole wearing this super loose-weave cotton shirt using the Butterick 6070 which she has used several times as the buttonholes are hidden behind the placket. Great if your buttonholes have the occasional wobble!
This cotton is super soft with a gauzey jacquard type weave (unusual), it resists creasing and is great to wear in the hot weather as the drape tends to hold it off the body.
The lovely Celia sent us this pic of her wearing her p blouse using a spotty print silk chiffon blouse, the pattern is Vogue 1385, and she says was technically straightforward as it consisted of only 5 pattern pieces. However, the neckline tucks were very time consuming as the dart markings were on the facings as well as the main pattern pieces and the two had to be aligned exactly. Very fiddly!
Worth the effort Celia- beautiful Blouse, thanks for sharing!
The wonderful Pamela here in her wrap front tunic top made out of a light – medium weight linen and viscose mix – a great blend that gets its drape from the viscose and the coolness and structure from the linen, it’s perfect for this top. We love the proportions of this tunic- the length, the little sleeves, the way Pam has used plain navy to define the wrap neckline. Superb!
Silversewer (carol) made this fabulous #southbank sweater 🤗. with this fun people with binoculars printed french terry backed cotton sweatshirting. This was her second make of this patter -time adding the bottom cuff. The collar can be either folded over or left upright. This is such a great pattern😊. Her daughter 💕 loves it !
Bess made this hoody from an old Burda pattern on the day before going off to a festival and realising she had nothing warm for the evenings. Being somewhat busy she got up a bit early and made it before breakfast – even though it was a pattern she hadn’t used before (needed to be cut out)/there were patch pockets that needed to go on evenly/stripes to match/zip to be inserted. We would like to say it was Bess’s skillz as a dressmaker but most of the credit needs to go to this lovely double wool jersey that behaved soooo nicely.
Miaow on the beach wearing the the big beachy hoody Jane made for her. The pattern is McCall’s 7044 (Jane extended the length). A twin needle was used for the hems, all the seams were done in a jiffy on the overlocker.
This is Joy who came by the shop wearing this fabulous outfit of chartreuse geometric print viscose lawn blouse (New Look K6471) with a turquoise coloured denim skirt (the Arielle by Tilly and the Buttons). ❤️❤️❤️
Bess made up this sleeveless shirt using a fabulous eye print poplin cotton. The pattern is taken and amended from an old White Stuff shirt, the buttons are wiggly eye buttons but how long they will last is debatable as she keeps ironing over them!
As the poplin is very stable and Bess wanted the shirt as light as possible no interfacing was used apart from down the front placket so the button holes would be stabilised.
Whilst Bess lined up the front and back when cutting out no attempt was made to match the pattern. It actually does match where the yoke meets the back piece but that was an accident.
Bess couldn’t resist this dichroic glass mirror in Amsterdam for a selfie of her rainbow print viscose T-Shirt (pattern drafted from a fallen apart Great Plains linen T-Shirt). The neck is bound with the same jersey and a stay tape is inserted on the shoulder seam to keep it stable.
Sue (from French France) made this fabulous linen and Sorona mix shirt using the Closet Case Patterns ‘Kalle Shirt’, Sorona is a new fibre made from corn starch that we hope will take off because added to linen it adds a fabulous softness and suppleness (less creases! Yayy!!). Sue used a bias maker to make the spotty inside collar.
Bess made up this T-Shirt for Lulu (her sister – not the mannequin) , the pattern is Vogue elements 9926 size small with xs sleeve, zigzag hems and a self bound neck. It took 1 hour (most of which was looking for scissors)
Bess made up this feather print T-Shirt for her little sister using lovely stable Cotton and Elastane Jersey with lots of stretch that makes the binding on the neck a cinch. Plus there is the added bonus that as the fabric is so wide and Lulu is such a squinge Bess can make up the entire thing out of 80cm. Bonus!
The hems are done with a simple zigzag because Bess hates the coverstitch machine.
Lynn has been making clothes for herself, friends and family for years. She works mostly in soft furnishings and upholstery now so making clothes is a real treat, and what a treat this t-shirt is? Made from 95% Cotton 5% Elastane lightweight jersey with a fun seagull print (seagulls are not best friends in Devon but they are tolerated on a t-shirt)
Sue had never sewn jersey before so approached this project with a little trepidation, a few days later she was showing off her skills with both the white wrap top made in cotton and elastane jersey and the maxi skirt made in multicolour digital print lightweight viscose and elastane jersey. I think it is fair to say Sue is approaching jersey with a little less trepidation now 😉
Wendy visited the shop all the way from Welsh Wales to check us out ‘in the flesh’ (we don’t think she was disappointed). We couldn’t resist getting a photo as she was wearing this fab tunic Katherine Tilton for Vogue patterns. We love the combination of the two prints which just look spectacular together. Thumbs up Wendy! 👍
Pearl made this grey stripe velour hooded sweatshirt at the Steiner School, great care was taken lining up the pocket so the stripes stayed straight, which can’t have been easy in this fabric but she did exceptionally well 🙂 👏 👍
Jane busy sampling wearing her digital print viscose jersey mock wrap t-shirt made by Bess. The Pattern is Kay Unger for Vogue V1519 which has a cap sleeve, Bess used the sleeve off another top (that just so conveniently fitted) so as to have a longer one.
As it was quite a complicated design and tricky to see the sizing so Bess made a toile first in cheaper jersey. The wrap part is lined in viscose jersey and Bess used turquoise stretch piping on the neck to keep the tension and shape. There were lots of pleats and tucks that were carefully marked, and whilst Bess truly did intend to follow the instructions she forgot after a while, but it came out okay. Hoorah!
From the South of France we have the wonderfully gifted teacher, Brigitte, in her new skirt made out of pink and grey check wool tweed and Chantal in her black and white spotty heavy cotton and acrylic knit top. Bernie (not pictured) lets them look at her Cloth Club fabrics and they all add their orders to hers.
Here is Lesley’s latest shirt to be added to the collection. The wool challis drapes so well, it was a good choice for a warm winter shirt. She added detail on the pocket with a couple of Thermofax Screen prints and the buttons were sewn on with orange thread just to add a bit of warmth to the look of the garment.
Miaow told Jane that she didn’t want her to make her school jumper because she was too slow, she wanted Bess to make it…. which was a cunning plan of a 7 year old to get granny proving otherwise. The jumper was made the very same day as the request, and in the post for her to parade around the school and stand corrected. Made with supersoft Modal, Cotton and Elastane jersey (lightweight sweatshirting) with stay tape on the shoulders.
Pattern: converted from jacket on McCall’s 7044 which is out of print but there are others similar.
Julia (apologising for the quality of the photos) wearing her navy wool jersey cover up using Burda 6850. She was really pleased with both the weight and drape of the fabric. This is a really nice simple Autumn cover-up!
Bernie in the South of France wearing her blue and cream dragon print cotton culottes made using a pattern taken from the Burda magazine no 195, March 2016. She made adjustments (intentionally) and took out the pleat in the front simply by seaming it down. The culottes were finished by then but felt they were far too wide so rather than disturb the good fit over the hips and waist she just took out the fullness by stitching the pleat down as a seam and then cutting away the surplus, an overall difference of several inches. Bernie did have to undo the waistband for a few inches on each side to do the job properly. Then (unintentionally as when using the overlocker to finish these extra seams she got the back caught up in it thus making a hole!) made a similar seam down the centre back of each leg of the culottes, no more than an inch or so of width, and is very pleased with the result. (HOORAH!)
As for to the top, it is made from some lightweight organic cotton jersey and the pattern is an amalgam of several for a far too complicated reason to explain! Let’s just say it is a t-shirt!
Rachel with her red Liberty printed cotton jersey wrap T-Shirt. The pattern is Butterick 5084 and works equally well in a stretchy viscose and elastane mix jersey as this pure cotton jersey (and also heavier cotton and elastane jerseys too).
Vanessa came to the shop with this Fraser sweatshirt (from Sewaholic), made with a reversible cotton sweatshirting so the stripe contrast shows on cuffs and neck binding. It is super warm and comfy (not to mention stylish).
Jessie wearing black and multicolour alphabet print viscose and elastane jersey T-Shirt made by Bess for her Christmas Present (has been worn to death since!). The pattern was taken from a favourite Jaeger Breton T-Shirt so it was designed for heavier interlock type jersey but works very well in this slinky viscose jersey. The square neck is interfaced with extra-light iron on interfacing H0019 and the back neck and shoulder seam has a stabilising tape sewn in so they do not stretch out of shape.
Rachel (with her whippet who knows she’s not really allowed in the shop) wearing black leather look ponte jeans (beautifully made) but not fitting brilliantly*… prototype #2 coming soon, and slinky dink leopard print poly jersey mock wrap t-shirt.
She does love a bit of Kitsch, does our Rach, and this is definitely in the kitsch camp!
The Jeans are butterick 5682 (not designed for jersey hence the fitting issues) and the top is Burda 6848.
*Actually we think they fit pretty well but Rachel likes perfection.
Lulu wearing her cloqué brocade bodice made by Jane. It is lined in cotton poplin as we needed something a bit beefier than normal lining to protect her sensitive skin from the lurex. The neck and armholes are bound with jersey bias. Because the zip needs to be open end and colours are limited the zip was put in the side seam so as not to draw attention to the dubious colour match.
Elaine wearing her printed viscose cowl neck top (Butterick 4132). She put a brooch on the cowl to weigh it down nicely but for the next one she will put a curtain penny weight in the facing. These tops drape beautifully in a fluid fabric like viscose and to add to the drape the fabric is cut on the cross.
Elwen wearing her lion print cotton jersey T-Shirt using the Burda 6820 pattern. I’m pretty certain this print is more effective at cheering oneself up than any prescribed drugs, she was definitely very pleased with herself the day she came into work wearing that.
Worn with a panelled mini skirt made using remnants of cotton needlecord. The pattern is Burda 6928 and is a great user upper of remnants!
Rachel wearing her fabulous digitally printed graffiti cotton and elastane jersey wrap t-shirt. Rachel had made up this t-shirt before in a Liberty pure cotton jersey but there’s a lot of elastane in this jersey (6% -double what you usually get), which makes it super stretchy and caused a few alterations to be made, she got there in the end! Jersey used to be Rachel’s nemesis but she’s learning how to kick it into shape.
Jerseys, just like wovens are not all made from the same mould, the weight, the fibres, the density of knit and percentage of elastane all effect the way it behaves, so even when you think you’ve got the perfect pattern along comes a new fabric that needs alterations. Such is the joy of dressmaking!
Anyway, it’s fab, and you learn much more from our trials than the easy projects (just keep telling yourself that).
She used Burda 6848 mock wrap t-shirt pattern with minor alterations to enable a good fit. Other than a bit of seam tape in the shoulders and ballpoint machine needles no special equipment or extras were required.
Anastasia made these fabulous tunics, here’s what she had to say about them:
I would like to thank you for your great service and share with you the pictures of tunics that I have made for my mum in the beginning of the summer. The fabrics are lovely – brown printed viscose Jersey from John Kaldor (sold out) and chartreuse green bamboo Jersey ( 2910 ). It was a pleasure to work with them and the result is so nice 😉 I am very happy that I found your online store with such amazing range of beautiful fabrics!
Allow 10% shrinkage for all your washable natural fibres (including viscose). Wash before making up in the same manner as you would with subsequent washes (including drying methods).
Jerseys and fabrics liable to mis-shape should be dried flat, or in a cool tumble dryer.
Most fabrics should be pressed before cutting.
If in doubt about care instructions please CONTACT US