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Black and White Pinstripe Hoody

Black Pinstripe double wool jersey hoody

Bess made this hoody from an old Burda pattern on the day before going off to a festival and realising she had nothing warm for the evenings. Being somewhat busy she got up a bit early and made it before breakfast – even though it was a pattern she hadn’t used before (needed to be cut out)/there were patch pockets that needed to go on evenly/stripes to match/zip to be inserted. We would like to say it was Bess’s skillz as a dressmaker but most of the credit needs to go to this lovely double wool jersey that behaved soooo nicely.

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Eye Print Cotton Poplin Sleeveless Shirt

evil eye print cotton poplin

Bess made up this sleeveless shirt using a fabulous eye print poplin cotton. The pattern is taken and amended from an old White Stuff shirt, the buttons are wiggly eye buttons but how long they will last is debatable as she keeps ironing over them!

As the poplin is very stable and Bess wanted the shirt as light as possible no interfacing was used apart from down the front placket so the button holes would be stabilised.

Whilst Bess lined up the front and back when cutting out no attempt was made to match the pattern. It actually does match where the yoke meets the back piece but that was an accident.

 

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Strawberry Print T-Shirts (a pair of strawberry tarts)

a pair of strawberry print t-shirts

When we received the email entitled ‘a pair of strawberry tarts’ we weren’t quite sure what we were opening. 🙀

This is Rachel and Rachel wearing their matching strawberry print cotton and elastane jersey t-shirts along with wolfy the dog (whippet the whippet was locked outside after rolling in fox excrement).

This is possibly our favourite catwalk photo EVER ❤️❤️❤️

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Rainbow Print Viscose T-Shirt

rainbow stripe print viscose jersey t-shirt

Bess couldn’t resist this dichroic glass mirror in Amsterdam for a selfie of her rainbow print viscose T-Shirt (pattern drafted from a fallen apart Great Plains linen T-Shirt). The neck is bound with the same jersey and a stay tape is inserted on the shoulder seam to keep it stable.

Photobomb of Kitcat was unavoidable.

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Navy Linen and Sorona Mix Kalle Shirt

Sorona and Linen mix closet case patterns Kalle Shirt

Sue (from French France) made this fabulous linen and Sorona mix shirt using the Closet Case Patterns ‘Kalle Shirt’, Sorona is a new fibre made from corn starch that we hope will take off because added to linen it adds a fabulous softness and suppleness (less creases! Yayy!!). Sue used a bias maker to make the spotty inside collar.

 

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Feather Print T-Shirt

feather print cotton and elastane t-shirt

Bess made up this feather print T-Shirt for her little sister using lovely stable Cotton and Elastane Jersey with lots of stretch that makes the binding on the neck a cinch. Plus there is the added bonus that as the fabric is so wide and Lulu is such a squinge Bess can make up the entire thing out of 80cm. Bonus!

The hems are done with a simple zigzag because Bess hates the coverstitch machine.

cotton and elastane t-shirt neck binding

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Taupe Geometric Print Polyester Satin Vest Top

self-drafted lightweight polyester satin vest top

Trish came to the shop wearing her fabulous taupe geometric print polyester satin vest top, she self drafted the pattern (clever old sticks our customers are).

This top is as versatile as a top can be – perfect for a trip to the shops but equally at home dressed up with some snazzy trousers for a wedding. Pattern heaven!

 

 

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Jersey Mock Wrap Top and Maxi Skirt

jersey mock wrap top and maxi skirt

Sue had never sewn jersey before so approached this project with a little trepidation, a few days later she was showing off her skills with both the white wrap top made in cotton and elastane jersey and the maxi skirt made in multicolour digital print lightweight viscose and elastane jersey. I think it is fair to say Sue is approaching jersey with a little less trepidation now 😉

 

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Digital Print Viscose Jersey Wrap T-Shirt

Digital print viscose jersey wrap t-shirt

Jane busy sampling wearing her digital print viscose jersey mock wrap t-shirt made by Bess. The Pattern is Kay Unger for Vogue V1519 which has a cap sleeve, Bess used the sleeve off another top (that just so conveniently fitted) so as to have a longer one.

As it was quite a complicated design and tricky to see the sizing so Bess made a toile first in cheaper jersey. The wrap part is lined in viscose jersey and Bess used turquoise stretch piping on the neck to keep the tension and shape. There were lots of pleats and tucks that were carefully marked, and whilst Bess truly did intend to follow the instructions she forgot after a while, but it came out okay.  Hoorah!

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Green School Jumper

green cotton and modal school jumper

Miaow told Jane that she didn’t want her to make her school jumper because she was too slow, she wanted Bess to make it…. which was a cunning plan of a 7 year old to get granny proving otherwise. The jumper was made the very same day as the request, and in the post for her to parade around the school and stand corrected. Made with supersoft Modal, Cotton and Elastane jersey (lightweight sweatshirting) with stay tape on the shoulders.

Pattern: converted from jacket on McCall’s 7044 which is out of print but there are others similar.

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Dragon Print Cotton Culottes

dragon print cotton culottes

Bernie in the South of France wearing her blue and cream dragon print cotton culottes made using a pattern taken from the Burda magazine no 195, March 2016. She made adjustments (intentionally) and took out the pleat in the front simply by seaming it down.  The culottes were finished by then but felt they were far too wide so rather than disturb the good fit over the hips and waist she just took out the fullness by stitching the pleat down as a seam and then cutting away the surplus, an overall difference of several inches.  Bernie did have to undo the waistband for a few inches on each side to do the job properly.  Then (unintentionally as when using the overlocker to finish these extra seams she got the back caught up in it thus making a hole!) made a similar seam down the centre back of each leg of the culottes, no more than an inch or so of width, and is very pleased with the result. (HOORAH!)

As for to the top, it is made from some lightweight organic cotton jersey and the pattern is an amalgam of several for a far too complicated reason to explain!  Let’s just say it is a t-shirt!

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Alphabet Print Viscose and Elastane Jersey

alphabet print viscose jersey

Jessie wearing black and multicolour alphabet print viscose and elastane jersey T-Shirt made by Bess for her Christmas Present (has been worn to death since!). The pattern was taken from a favourite Jaeger Breton T-Shirt so it was designed for heavier interlock type jersey but works very well in this slinky viscose jersey. The square neck is interfaced with extra-light iron on interfacing H0019 and the back neck and shoulder seam has a stabilising tape sewn in so they do not stretch out of shape.

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Leather look Ponte Jersey Jeans and Leopard Print T-Shirt

leopard print mock wrap t-shirt and ponte leather look jersey jeans

Rachel (with her whippet who knows she’s not really allowed in the shop) wearing black leather look ponte jeans (beautifully made) but not fitting brilliantly*… prototype #2 coming soon, and slinky dink leopard print poly jersey mock wrap t-shirt.

She does love a bit of Kitsch, does our Rach, and this is definitely in the kitsch camp!

The Jeans are butterick 5682 (not designed for jersey hence the fitting issues) and the top is Burda 6848.

polyester leopard print jersey
polyester leopard print jersey
leather look ponte roma type jersey
leather look ponte roma type jersey

*Actually we think they fit pretty well but Rachel likes perfection.

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Black Jersey Ensemble for an 8 (going on 18) Year Old

black polka dot printed viscose jersey top and pencil skirt

Kitcat wearing her black jersey skirt and cropped T-shirt which she made HERSELF. Jane helped (with hyper alertness) as Kitcat was burning along at break-neck speed with the overlocker.

There is probably a really important life-lesson learned here but we are not quite sure which it is, or for whom.

Meanwhile, Kitcat has a fabulous outfit to pretend she is 18 in, and Granny still has all her fingers.

The fabrics are both viscose jersey, one heavier and slightly textured for the skirt and a lightweight polkadot print for the top.

black polka dot printed viscose jersey
black polka dot printed viscose jersey
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Brocade Zipped Bodice

Lurex and polyester brocade zipped bodice

Lulu wearing her cloqué brocade bodice made by Jane. It is lined in cotton poplin as we needed something a bit beefier than normal lining to protect her sensitive skin from the lurex. The neck and armholes are bound with jersey bias. Because the zip needs to be open end and colours are limited the zip was put in the side seam so as not to draw attention to the dubious colour match.

brocade zipped bodice, linen jacket and skirt
brocade zipped bodice, linen jacket and skirt

lulu-brocade-bodice-zip

Lurex and polyester brocade zipped bodice
Lurex and polyester brocade zipped bodice
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Lilac Printed Viscose Cowl Neck Top

viscose cowl neck top

Elaine wearing her printed viscose cowl neck top (Butterick 4132). She put a brooch on the cowl to weigh it down nicely but for the next one she will put a curtain penny weight in the facing. These tops drape beautifully in a fluid fabric like viscose and to add to the drape the fabric is cut on the cross.

 

 

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Lion Print Cotton Jersey T-Shirt

lion print cotton t-shirt and panelled cord skirt

Elwen wearing her lion print cotton jersey T-Shirt using the Burda 6820 pattern. I’m pretty certain this print is more effective at cheering oneself up than any prescribed drugs, she was definitely very pleased with herself the day she came into work wearing that.

Worn with a panelled mini skirt made using remnants of cotton needlecord. The pattern is Burda 6928 and is a great user upper of remnants!

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Graffiti Printed Wrap T-Shirt

graffiti digital print wrap jersey top

Rachel wearing her fabulous digitally printed graffiti cotton and elastane jersey wrap t-shirt. Rachel had made up this t-shirt before in a Liberty pure cotton jersey but there’s a lot of elastane in this jersey (6% -double what you usually get), which makes it super stretchy and caused a few alterations to be made, she got there in the end! Jersey used to be Rachel’s nemesis but she’s learning how to kick it into shape.

Jerseys, just like wovens are not all made from the same mould, the weight, the fibres, the density of knit and percentage of elastane all effect the way it behaves, so even when you think you’ve got the perfect pattern along comes a new fabric that needs alterations. Such is the joy of dressmaking!

Anyway, it’s fab, and you learn much more from our trials than the easy projects (just keep telling yourself that).

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Green Bamboo Jersey Tunic

green bamboo jersey

Anastasia made these fabulous tunics, here’s what she had to say about them:

I would like to thank you for your great service and share with you the pictures of tunics that I have made for my mum in the beginning of the summer. The fabrics are lovely – brown printed viscose Jersey from John Kaldor (sold out) and chartreuse green bamboo Jersey ( 2910 ). It was a pleasure to work with them and the result is so nice 😉 I am very happy that I found your online store with such amazing range of beautiful fabrics!

You can find other suitable jerseys HERE

brown Kohn Kaldor printed Viscose and Elastane Jersey tunic
brown Kohn Kaldor printed Viscose and Elastane Jersey tunic
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Linen T-Shirt with Wide Leg Trousers

White linen jersey and black heavy viscose

Bess wearing a white linen jersey raglan sleeved t-shirt with ‘modesty’ panel, and black viscose pique wide leg trousers.

Bess has a bit of a linen jersey obsession, this is the fourth (at least) she made of these tops in as many weeks. This was lined in a bandeau panel with a very stable white cotton jersey, the same jersey was used to bind the neck.

The trousers were made from a stash of Viscose, a slightly piqué weave cloth that drapes beautifully but has a lot of ‘substance’. There’s a fly and button closure and then ribbons that tie to the side.

Both patterns are fairly unrecognisable from their origins, but the trousers were Burda 8087 and the top is Burda 6990

You can find other linen jerseys HERE, the viscose trousering is kind of unique, we will buy more if we ever see it, but you will get a similar drape with Worsted Wool suitings

 

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Car print three quarter sleeve T-shirt

car printed jersey T-Shirt

Car print raglan sleeve T-shirt made by Bess for Lulu.

Fabric: 4983 Cotton jersey with 8% Elastane

Adjusted from Burda pattern 6990

Because the fabric is soooooo wide Bess managed to not only get this top but also a knee length a-line skirt for Lulu, and a little tiny skirt for her daughter, Mia-moo, all out of 1.4mts.

Altogether now, Awwwwwwwwwww!

Mia-moo wearing car-print jersey mini skirt made out of a remnant
Mia-moo wearing car-print jersey mini skirt made out of a remnant
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Pussycat sweatshirt with glow in the dark pussycat eyes

red sweatshirt with pussy cat eyes

Bess wearing her pussycat sweatshirt made using red brushed back cotton sweatshirting and appliqued glow in the dark cotton eyes with remnants of jersey for the whiskers and nose.

Bess might have a bit of a pussycat (particularly with glowey eyes) obsession at the moment. (Inspired by a sleeveless top bought from Uniqlo earlier in the year designed by Lulu Guiness).

Get your glow in the dark fabric HERE

 

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Chevron knit long cardigan

Missoni knit long cardigan

Long cardigan made with Italian Designer chevron cotton viscose and silk knit, made by Bess.

This was supposed to be a uber-simple cardigan with no darts or back seam or anything, but as is the way with Italian Designer knits it was cut way too big so ended up needing a centre back seam and princess seams.
It looks nicer with those seams. That’s her story and she’s sticking to it.

Find Italian Designer knits Here

 

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Linen Jersey Camisole and Spotty Linen A-Line Skirt

Linen Jersey Camisole and spotty print linen A-line skirt

Bess on top of the world wearing linen jersey camisole and red and white spotty linen skirt. The camisole pattern was made by drawing round an existing vest. The front and the back are the same which makes it super easy to construct (no markings!), Soft elastic binding was used for the straps, Bess made a few of these for her holiday and got the making time down to 20 minutes. The skirt was made a few years ago (fabric long since sold out 🙁 ), due to the linen being so fine Bess lined it with white ‘Riviera’ lawn. Double belt loops were attached to hold a decorative saddle stitch grosgrain belt. She’s had a lot of use out of this skirt.

You can find lots of Linens HERE

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Trellis Print Lawn Sleeveless Shirt

printed cotton lawn sleeveless shirt

Bess wearing her much-loved cotton lawn trellis print shirt. Lawn is a brilliant weave to wear in the heat as it is so fine, yet still nice to sew with. The pattern was copied from a worn-out White Stuff shirt (now out of production), The bust darts are really tucks coming down from the shoulders. The armholes are faced with a wide tapered bias armhole binding that folds back to give the armhole some substance (anything to balance out Bess’s hips, she says, is a good thing 😉 )

Bess used no interfacing in the construction of this shirt – looking at the one she copied it didn’t seem they had used any, she worried about the buttonholes cocking up not working and the collar-band not lying properly but it was fine, if the fabric was less stable than lawn she would use light interfacing.

Fabric and Notions:
Blue trellis print cotton lawn
10mm red buttons

Pattern: drafted from manufactured shirt.

Also seen, cloud print red and white jersey skirt

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Cloud Print Jersey Mini Skirt and Raglan Top

raglan sweatshirt and cloud printed jersey mini skirt

Bess wearing her cloud printed cotton elastane jersey mini skirt, with cobalt blue double jersey raglan sleeve top. Both the top and the skirt took less than half an hour to make (each) – more time was spent waiting for the iron to heat up, or choosing which side to do the top (the reverse of that fabric is a lovely teal colour.

Bess loves things that take less than half an hour to make 🙂

Fabrics and Notions:

Cotton Elastane cloud printed jersey #2846.
Cobalt Blue/Teal double sided jersey #3193. See more jersey here
Elastic

Patterns:

Skirt: DKNY for Vogue (adapted from long skirt, pattern now discontinued)
Top: Marcy Tilton for Vogue. #8636 (collar, cuffs and hem adapted from pattern)