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Worsted Wool Long Pinafore Dress

navy blue small check worsted wool pinafore dress made using vogue 7975 and simplicity 2247

Lucy did that dressmaker superpower thing of combining two patterns to make something greater than the sum of its parts. The top of this fabulous worsted wool pinafore is Vogue V7975 pattern with Simplicity 2247 for the skirt. The top was also modified so the middle of the front part of the top consist of two pieces which overlap. It’s like “double breasted”. It’s fully lined. She spent some time to make it right. For the skirt Lucy needed to make adjustments to match up the seams of the panels to the top.  

This worsted wool is super fine and has a wonderful drape, making a pinafore dress is perfect as it means it spends far less time at the cleaners.

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Worsted Wool Supersoft Wide Leg Trousers

maker's atelier wide leg trousers made up in navy check worsted wool from Paul Smith

Suzanne used this designer buttery soft navy check worsted wool for her Maker’s Atelier wide leg trousers, the fit was honed by her tutor Claire Tyler (who does amazing retreats), they are lined in cupro bremsilk and the pockets have been omitted as Suzanne doesn’t like the bulk of the big pockets across the tummy. Suzanne now has the fitted pattern and has made many of these trousers since, it’s worth taking the time to hone a pattern like this as the classic style will not date and the simple lines can easily be adjusted into other styles. Worsted wool is the perfect fabric for a style like this.

maker's atelier wide leg trousers made up in navy check worsted wool from Paul Smith
maker’s atelier wide leg trousers made up in navy check worsted wool from Paul Smith
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Double Sided Coating Ingrid Coat

VikiSews Ingrid Coat made by Lis using double sided heavy wool coating (made and modelled by Lis)

Lis put this amazing double sided coating to its best by making this Viki Sews Ingrid coat.

See her full post in Instagram (and do follow her-she’s an inspiration) She said, “A rare sunny day this winter was the perfect opportunity to wear my latest and favourite make for a long time. I have been sewing, mainly for others but couldn’t resist using this wonderful double faced wool fabric to take my first foray into the @vikisews.patterns range. This is their Ingrid jacket and I love everything about it. 
The jacket is beautifully drafted with excellent instructions and throughout the tailoring techniques are first class. 
The only draw back I would say is that these are sold as single size patterns so there is no opportunity to size up or grade the pattern if you do not fit their measurements. 
The pattern is for a lined jacket but this fabric doesn’t need lining and it was easy enough to bind the facings and the hem in order to make it tidy inside. 
I might still add hip pockets which are not on the pattern but will wait to see if I miss them”

Fabric has sold out but you can find other fabulous reversible coatings HERE

lis standing on the sea shore wearing a buttoned up light grey reversible coating Ingrid coat
Lis standing on the sea shore wearing her buttoned up light grey reversible coating Ingrid coat
collar detail on the reversible coating Ingrid coat made by Lis Taylor
collar detail on the reversible coating Ingrid coat made by Lis Taylor
back view of the reversible coating VikiSews Ingrid Coat made by Lis
back view of the reversible coating VikiSews Ingrid Coat made by Lis
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Brown Bouclé Wool Jersey Blazer Jacket

Brown Bouclé Wool Jersey Blazer Jacket

Annie made up this fabulous wool mix brown bouclé bobble jersey using New Look 6636 pattern, being made in a heavy jersey it is both warm, comfortable and super stylish – ticking ALL the boxes of a No1 make.
The jersey knit is a mix of wool, cotton and viscose, it doesn’t have a great deal of stretch to it so works very well for this style of untailored blazer, it also means the button holes and pockets go on without stretching out (they are interfaced), and the whole thing just oozes effortless style.

Brown Bouclé Wool Jersey Blazer Jacket
Brown Bouclé Wool Jersey Blazer Jacket
Brown Bouclé Wool Jersey Blazer Jacket - back view
Brown Bouclé Wool Jersey Blazer Jacket – back view
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Black Boiled Wool Coatigan

black boiled wool designer coatigan

Michelle couldn’t stop herself from buying this unusual boiled wool from LG that has a fabulous laminated layer in the design, it lends itself perfectly to this kind of unstructured coatigan especially as the edges do not fray and can be left unfinished. Michelle makes these to sell -if you would rather someone else does the hard work for you!

The pattern is Michelle’s own but there are plenty of similar options out there. There is no lining and very little tailoring so it truly is a super quick make.

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Pleated Grey Check Wool Worsted Skirt

pleated marfy patterns wool skirt

Claire made this fabulous Marfy patterns skirt using our worsted wool suiting 11907 and she said it was a joy to work with (music to our ears!). This unusual asymmetrical skirt has a nifty pocket hidden in the pleat seam. Yayy! We love pockets! Marfy patterns are Italian and aimed at experienced sewists – your pattern arrives with no seam allowances, in one size only and with no instructions, for those of us who love a puzzle this will be a fun project, if that’s not your thing then avoid!

Claire sent us an email telling us what she planned to do and asked if this fabric would be suitable (the answer was an enthusiastic YES!), we love our customers to contact us and discuss options for a project first – it’s always a pleasure -never a chore, it’s what we are here for.

The fabric is a lovely hand washable worsted wool, linen and polyester blend, it’s the perfect medium weight for such a skirt with enough stability to mean it doesn’t need to be lined.

Grey, Taupe and Black 7.5cm check 53% Polyester 31% Linen 16% Wool lightweight Worsted Suiting
Grey, Taupe and Black 7.5cm check 53% Polyester 31% Linen 16% Wool lightweight Worsted Suiting
marfy patterns pleated wool skirt
marfy patterns pleated wool skirt
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Shocking Pink Jasika Blazer

jasika blazer in shocking pink worsted wool and mohair

Wendy had never made a jacket before – with the expert help of Make@140 in Plymouth she worked this beautiful shocking pink kid mohair and wool blend worsted suiting into the Jasika Blazer by Closet Core Patterns. We love it so much!

A blazer needs various interfacings to make it lie correctly, this pattern is great for detailing what you need and where, it utilises a speed tailoring method (using iron-on interfacings) which makes it super accessible for adventurous novices and creates impressive results.

This jacket uses weft interfacing along with hair canvas and 1/2″ thick tailored shoulder pads. Just to truly pop the colours Wendy chose to line this jacket in a fabulous pink and orange viscose satin lining

Wendy was super pleased with the help we gave her to choose the right fabrics and notions for this project, We are always here to help you get the right materials for your project, when you are out of your depth with a pattern just talk to us and we will always help.

L11899
pink and orange geo pattern viscose satin lining
jasika blazer in shocking pink worsted wool and mohair
jasika blazer in shocking pink worsted wool and mohair
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Dusky Pink Wool & Cotton Trench Coat

trench coat lapel detail in wool and cotton washable gaberdine 11778

Absolutely brilliant trench coat made by Vineta using our wool and cotton mix Gaberdine 11778 (also available in camel 11777). This fabric was originally labelled as dry clean but Vineta test washed it and proved it was washable (with minimal shrinkage) so …💃🕺👏
The pattern is the Grasser Trench Coat No 155 – I’ve not come across these patterns before but am impressed with the amount of detail you get in the info, and Vineta said whilst there were some iffy translations the instructions were very, very thorough.
She slimmed it down a bit but it would be fine if you like a more gathered look, she did no other adjustments. The sleeves went in a dream – only a tiny amount of sleeve cap ease so no puckers or collapsing sleeve heads. Yes! 🥳
These patterns come with four different height options so whether you are Amazonian tall or elfin proportions there will be a pattern for you.

trench coat in wool and cotton washable gaberdine 11778
trench coat in wool and cotton washable gaberdine 11778
trench coat (back view) in wool and cotton washable gaberdine 11778
trench coat (back view) in wool and cotton washable gaberdine 11778
trench coat cuff detail in wool and cotton washable gaberdine 11778
trench coat cuff detail in wool and cotton washable gaberdine 11778
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Grey Checked Wool Tweed Jacket

Grey Checked Wool Tweed Jacket

Gary is self taught and uses the garments in his wardrobe to learn from along with a wealth of old sheets and charity shop discards to practice on. This wool tweed jacket was made for his daughter and Gary needs to be congratulated on a fantastic job. Lined in paisley jacket and coat lining. Will you just look at those beautiful welted pockets?!

grey check wool tweed jacket
grey check wool tweed jacket pocket detail
grey check wool tweed jacket -back
grey check wool tweed jacket- back view. Beautifully matched with the shaping accentuated by the checks
grey check wool tweed jacket- opened to show paisley lining and internal pockets
grey check wool tweed jacket- opened to show paisley lining and internal pockets
grey check wool tweed jacket- side view
grey check wool tweed jacket- side view
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Navy Wool Tweed Duffle Coat

wool tweed duffle coat grainline studio cascade coat

Maria made this fabulous classic navy blue duffle coat to fit her tall frame using coating weight wool tweed and it is perfect for the chilly Scottish weather, love the comment about it reaching her hands – I’ve been making clothes so long I’d forgotten that’s a thing. How do tall people ever put up with ready to wear clothes? Much better idea to make it. 👍
She posted on instagram:

Finally it’s finished!! And just in time for the snow ❄️
I got the fabric for this coat as a Christmas present almost 2 years ago and progress has been sloooow. Lots of new techniques, first time sewing with wool, first time bagging out a lining and I wanted to really take time and get it as good as I could. It’s not perfect but I just love wearing this coat! I’ve wanted a good duffle coat for ages but I struggle with finding one to fit with my height- it’s so nice to have sleeves that actually reach my hands finally! The coat pattern is the #cascadedufflecoat from @grainlinestudio

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Navy Blue Herringbone Tweed Jacket & Waistcoat

Navy herringbone yorkshire made wool tweed made into man's jacket & waistcoat

Pure wool British made tweed is an absolute joy to work with but nevertheless the skills involved to create this fabulous man’s jacket and waistcoat is exemplary, Gary launched into this project with no training nor teacher (other than his ‘Sewing for Men’ Simplicity how-to book from the 70’s – gifted from a neighbour (it cost 40p!)) and my oh my he did a good job. The pattern is self drafted / robbed from existing/ cobbled together as all great sewists can do. The jacket and waistcoat are both lined in a lovely deep burgundy satin lining. It’s all just soooo good.

And he made a baker boy hat too!

pure wool navy blue herringbone yorkshire tweed
yorkshire herringbone tweed jacket, waistcoat and baker boy hat
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Black Classic Wool Melton Coat

black wool melton coat burda 6845

Lois used Burda 6845 with no alterations (though she conseeds it’s a little long we think it’s nice like that) and used our black wool melton. I’m in awe of her pockets – they are seriously neat. This is a proper lovely coat. Well done Lois.

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Red Waffle Texture Pure Wool Coat

red waffle texture wool coat

Jacoba said, “I am rather pleased with this coat! Seems my hand op hasn’t held me up at all as this was my post op recuperative project. It is Vogue 9157 – view B but without the pockets and belt and with the extra buttons as in A and C. Even the bound buttonholes worked perfectly. I decided against the hooks at the neck for the moment but may change my mind. I invariably wear a scarf anyway. The Red waffle wool is stunning and lovely to work with.

bound button hole
red waffle texture wool coat
red waffle texture wool coat
cats helping with the sewing
cats helping with the sewing

What would we do without the help of our cats?

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Sapphire Blue Wool and Cashmere Coat

sapphire blue wool and cashmere Oslo Coat

Lindy used this vivid sapphire blue wool and cashmere mix coating to make up the Tessuti patterns Oslo coat – the fabric is gorgeously soft to the touch and is semi-felted which made it a great choice for this unstructured style. Lindy lined it in silk. ❤️

sapphire blue wool and cashmere Oslo Coat
sapphire blue wool and cashmere Oslo Coat
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Pink Wool Crepe Dress with Sleeves

deep fuchsia pink wool crepe

Julie needed a ‘posh frock’ for a winter wedding and wool crepe fitted the bill nicely. Wool crepe will tailor so beautifully and is a joy to work with. It is warm in the cold and cool in the heat so a perfect choice for those occasions when you are half outside in the freezing cold and then indoors with the fires blazing.

The dress is lined in Venezia lining – a breathable anti-static lining that is soft and drapey like the crepe

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Waffle Textured Navy Wool Coat

waffle textured navy wool coat

Sally here wearing the navy textured wool coat she had made up for her by Wendy – a local dressmaker -we know it’s cheating but Wendy is excellent and Sally has no patience for sewing! It is lined in a lovely silk pique (sorry- no pic) and trimmed with matt navy suit buttons and cotton grosgrain ribbon.

The pattern was alterecd from an old Vogue blazer pattern – stolen nfrom Bess https://www.stonefabrics.co.uk/catwalk/green-linen-coat-with-grosgrain-trim/

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Tartan Check Cropped Trousers and Clear TPU Leopard Print Jacket

TPU clear leopard print raincoat with linen and wool tartan worsted cropped trousers

Bess made the pattern from her block for these trousers, but it is very similar to the Marcy Tilton for Vogue V8499 trousers. She added extra width below the hip and then darted them back in at the bottom. The fabric is a wool, linen and silk blend worsted suiting that is a delight to sew with (even when matching checks!) and is not at all itchy to wear so was made unlined. -With the thought it *might* be itchy Bess used a contrast cotton cartoon print on the inside of the waistband.

green and blue tartan linen wool and silk worsted suiting cropped trousers
green and blue tartan linen wool and silk worsted suiting cropped trousers - detailed fly view
green and blue tartan linen wool and silk worsted suiting cropped trousers- back view

The Jacket is a leopard print TPU clear plastic that Bess sewed with bias binding so as not to be unstuck by the fabric not feeding properly through the machine (you can stop this happening also by using a teflon foot, or sewing with strips of tissue which are then torn off). The pattern is the Kelly Anorak by Closet Case Patterns (simplified a little). Bess made it for a festival (it looks brilliant at night with lights inside), but actually it’s fab to wear on the many rainy days we suffer in Devon. She didn’t bond the seams or do any special waterproofing, but finds it hold up exceptionally well- even to a downpour on a Welsh mountain!

TPU clear waterproof kelly anorak jacket with leopard print - side view
TPU clear waterproof kelly anorak jacket with leopard print - front view
The jacket zips up with a clear chunky tooth separating zipper
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Supersoft Dogtooth Tweed Coat

supersoft wool tweed dogtooth check coat with epaulettes and gimp trim

Bess made this black and white tweed up into a coat using a tried and tested Claire Shaeffer Vogue pattern 7467 (now discontinued) which is a jacket pattern so there were a fair few alterations to do. The tweed is very soft and lightweight (it feels like cashmere) so Bess blocked it onto silk crepeline organza to stabilise it. The lining is a mix of a floral print viscose crepe (used at the upper back and pockets), and then a cupro and silk blend heavy habotai for the rest. She had great fun choosing the buttons and loves the little sparkly one on the inside, and hand sewed the gimp braid all the way round on each and every loop (that’s dedication, that is).

This coat was made on a weekend retreat, the side effect of intensive sewing like that is the brain does have a habit of disengaging from time to time, hence how the button holes on one of the sleeve vents are going sideways (DOH!). After an initial ohmygodwhatamigoingtodo moment Bess decided to just go with them and now rather likes their asymmetry.

It is a glorious coat to wear, light yet warm and often gets comments. Bess admits now that it was worth the hard work!

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Red Leopard Print Wool and Alpaca Coating

Le 809 dp studio coat with incorporated gillet in red and black leopard coating

Sarah from the blog Wanderstitch made this glorious coat out of the red leopard print patterned wool and alpaca coating and we suggest you head over to her blog for an entertaining and extremely informative read. In Brief this is the ‘Le 809’ from DP Studio which is a coat with an incorporated gillet, she used our animal textured wool and alpaca coating for the project and we hope you agree she got some stunning results.

Le 809 dp studio coat with incorporated gillet in red and black  leopard coating
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Black and White Stripe Double Jersey

black and white stripe pure wool double jersey cardigan

Nicola made this perfect long cardigan using pure wool double jersey from LG. As with all double jerseys the stretch is moderate which makes life a little easier when matching all those stripes (these are matched perfectly)

She made a slightly modified Grainline Studio Driftless cardigan. There’s more written about it on her blog.
“The fabric was a dream to sew, although matching the stripes was tricky! It’s a really cosy cardigan and just the right weight as we move towards winter. I’m so glad I chose this fabric.”

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Black Stretch Wool Trousers with Stripe Braid Side Seams

Black wide leg wool trousers with striped braid

Bess was covetting those Gucci wide leg trousers spotted on the interweb for AGES and then eventually gave in and made herself some. Never mind the fact the Gucci ones would never have fitted these have saved her a small fortune (which she can spend on more fabric). The pattern is Burda 6613, the wool is a stretch worsted (97% Wool 3% Elastane) and the trim is H0511.

green and red stripe polyester silky webbing

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Black and White Pinstripe Hoody

Black Pinstripe double wool jersey hoody

Bess made this hoody from an old Burda pattern on the day before going off to a festival and realising she had nothing warm for the evenings. Being somewhat busy she got up a bit early and made it before breakfast – even though it was a pattern she hadn’t used before (needed to be cut out)/there were patch pockets that needed to go on evenly/stripes to match/zip to be inserted. We would like to say it was Bess’s skillz as a dressmaker but most of the credit needs to go to this lovely double wool jersey that behaved soooo nicely.

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Purple Felted Wool Child’s Coat

foxglove purple felted wool child's coat

Catharine made this delightful coat for her daughter, she said she doesn’t normally send in photos but has had so many compliments about this coat she decided she really ought to share.

The fabric is a lovely foxglove felted wool from LG. Lined with her favourite Frozen fabric (not from us) and sleeves lined with venezia. The pattern is burda 9501.

Awwwwww! 😍

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Dusky Purple Wool Melton Coat with Psychedelic Lining

dusky purple wool melton coat with psychedelic print satin lining

Here we have Melody with her dusky purple coat made up beautifully and lined in psychedelic digital print poly satin. The pattern is the Clare Coat from Closet Case patterns. Melody said the printed pattern is not the best but their site has a brilliant tutorial for making it. It comes as a zipped version and a version with large press studs but she changed it to have self cover ones done with the lining.

Check the lining! Continue reading Dusky Purple Wool Melton Coat with Psychedelic Lining

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Tulip Print Shift Dress with Wool Crepe Bolero Jacket

tulip statement print poly twill taffeta shift dress and wool crepe bolero jacket

The lovely Anne here in full glory doing the Mother of the Bride thing wearing this statement tulip print poly twill taffeta dress and classic wool crepe bolero jacket.

Anne had help matching the tulips at a sewing class in Bath (the pattern is Vogue 8997). The wool crepe in the bright pink for the jacket was lovely to work with and drapes well (the pattern is Burda 8997).

tulip statement print poly twill taffeta shift dress and wool crepe bolero jacket

 

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Candy Pink Felted Wool Coat

pink felted wool kimono coat

Lauren made this amazing kimono sleeved coat for her final year degree show using pink felted wool coating. It’s tied together through oversized eyelets, has an extended hem at the back and an embellished shawl collar. Soooo beautiful!

pink felted wool kimono coat

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Blue and Red Wool Tweed Ulster Coat

Wool Tweed Ulster Coat

Emma from Sweden is wearing her classic wool tweed 1970’s ulster made from the wonderful navy wool tweed she bought in the Autumn. She also made her dog a matching coat! 🙂 She loves the fabric!

The pattern is Very Easy Vogue 8699 from the 1970’s, (see picture). She made the coat a bit longer and wider than the pattern instructed. It’s a simple and straight-forward construction, but a bit unusual as no interfacing at all is used. The most special feature, in our opinion, is the contrast lining that shows on lapels, pockets, belt and sleeve bands. She used a light-weight worsted wool fabric for the lining. There is topstitching around the front and along the raglan sleeve seams.

Wool Tweed Ulster Coat belt detail Wool Tweed Ulster Coat

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Plummy Pink Wool Melton Coat with Shawl Collar

Plummy Pink Wool Melton Coat with Shawl Collar

The lovely Wendy with her plummy pink shawl collar jacket-weight wool Melton coat. It is super soft and lightweight, the lightness is continued with wool wadding in the collar and front facing. It is lined in jacquard coat lining, and there are tailored shoulder pads to add shape and help with the structure. There were a few telephone calls during the making of this coat over advice for what to use and where, it was worth all the deliberation, we think this coat is going to get a lot of wear over the coming years 🙂

The pattern is Katherine Tilton for Butterick B5960

Wendy’s comments:

The wool wading worked very well.  The collar and front facing are both interfaced with it.  Quite an interesting construction with the collar, front and front facing in one piece (for each side) with a dart to form the collar.  I tried various things in the hem, including the wool wading, but it seemed to need more weight so I used a 3” strip of the hair canvas in the end which worked well.  I have quite narrow, sloping shoulders so I had to give the shoulders/top of sleeves more structure with shoulder pads and sleeve heads which looked a lot better on me.  I also hand sewed the lining hem to the coat with a jump pleat rather than leaving it loose as the pattern suggested.  

jacquard spotty coat lining

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Roy Wood Wool Crepe Stage Coat

Roy Wood stage coat in bottle green and wine red wool crepe

This bottle green wool crepe coat with wine red cape was made by Catherine Davis as a remake of an original stage coat worn by Roy Wood (from Wizard & Electric Light Orchestra). Time was limited and decisions over the colours had to be done on the telephone which is not something we recommend but Catherine was very pleased.

Roy Wood stage coat in bottle green and wine red wool crepe

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Pink Wool Tweed Casual Jacket

pink tweed coat on top of the devon cliff

Bess on top of the South Devon Cliffs wearing her fabulous pink tweed jacket that was made by Jane a couple of Birthday’s ago and still going strong.

The lining is chartreuse satin lining on the sleeves and multicolour chevron printed cotton (quilting weight) for the body. The collar and facings are red jumbo corduroy because Bess didn’t want the tweed against her skin.

Pink Wool tweed jacket with red jumbo cord facings and collar

The design is an old burda fur jacket pattern -somewhat altered! Fur coat patterns are dead easy because they tend to have very boxy simple cuts.

Pink denim jacket with odd buttons
Pink denim jacket with odd buttons

This is basically a remake of a pink denim jacket Bess made earlier – but suitable for the winter. Even the buttons are the same.

 

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Blue Wool Challis A-Line Skirt with Scattered Artificial Petals

wool challis skirt with artificial petal embellishment

Bess made this skirt on a bit of a whim – the wool challis had been in her stash for some time (if you have ever worn wool challis you will understand why she stashes it). The petals mysteriously turned up in her handbag the morning after a somewhat riotous wedding and have been hoarded ever since. And so the skirt was born, with no idea if A) the wool was washable and B) the petals would leak colour if it was washed.

The skirt was made in an evening, the a-line pattern is an ancient Burda start pattern (3198) that has long since discontinued although Burda 8237 is pretty similar (if you get rid of the waistband), or if you lengthen 6682 (both super easy alterations). The skirt is lined in Venezia and lightweight knit interfacing was used on the facing. Bess did the thing she always tells her customers not to do- she cut the lining the same size as the skirt and it ended up pulling and being too small. The wool challis has quite a lot of give in it, the lining doesn’t so you should always cut the lining a fraction bigger to allow for the ease, so the lining had to be chopped out and raised to allow the room. It’s a little short but if she doesn’t tell anyone they will never know 😉

Finally she attached the petals by first arranging them by eye with pins and then sewing a single line of stitching down the middle of each petal.

wool challis skirt with artificial petal embellishment
This photo was taken after it had been washed and worn a few times so Bess got away with her washing machine roulette this time. Which is lucky because she LOVES this skirt!

 

wool challis skirt with artificial petal embellishment
Sewing the artificial petals on with the trusty Bernina sewing machine (and a lot of pins)