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Black Stretch Wool Trousers with Stripe Braid Side Seams

Black wide leg wool trousers with striped braid

Bess was covetting those Gucci wide leg trousers spotted on the interweb for AGES and then eventually gave in and made herself some. Never mind the fact the Gucci ones would never have fitted these have saved her a small fortune (which she can spend on more fabric). The pattern is Burda 6613, the wool is a stretch worsted (97% Wool 3% Elastane) and the trim is H0511.

green and red stripe polyester silky webbing

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Black and White Pinstripe Hoody

Black Pinstripe double wool jersey hoody

Bess made this hoody from an old Burda pattern on the day before going off to a festival and realising she had nothing warm for the evenings. Being somewhat busy she got up a bit early and made it before breakfast – even though it was a pattern she hadn’t used before (needed to be cut out)/there were patch pockets that needed to go on evenly/stripes to match/zip to be inserted. We would like to say it was Bess’s skillz as a dressmaker but most of the credit needs to go to this lovely double wool jersey that behaved soooo nicely.

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Purple Felted Wool Child’s Coat

foxglove purple felted wool child's coat

Catharine made this delightful coat for her daughter, she said she doesn’t normally send in photos but has had so many compliments about this coat she decided she really ought to share.

The fabric is a lovely foxglove felted wool from LG. Lined with her favourite Frozen fabric (not from us) and sleeves lined with venezia. The pattern is burda 9501.

Awwwwww! 😍

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Dusky Purple Wool Melton Coat with Psychedelic Lining

dusky purple wool melton coat with psychedelic print satin lining

Here we have Melody with her dusky purple coat made up beautifully and lined in psychedelic digital print poly satin. The pattern is the Clare Coat from Closet Case patterns. Melody said the printed pattern is not the best but their site has a brilliant tutorial for making it. It comes as a zipped version and a version with large press studs but she changed it to have self cover ones done with the lining.

Check the lining! Continue reading Dusky Purple Wool Melton Coat with Psychedelic Lining

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Tulip Print Shift Dress with Wool Crepe Bolero Jacket

tulip statement print poly twill taffeta shift dress and wool crepe bolero jacket

The lovely Anne here in full glory doing the Mother of the Bride thing wearing this statement tulip print poly twill taffeta dress and classic wool crepe bolero jacket.

Anne had help matching the tulips at a sewing class in Bath (the pattern is Vogue 8997). The wool crepe in the bright pink for the jacket was lovely to work with and drapes well (the pattern is Burda 8997).

tulip statement print poly twill taffeta shift dress and wool crepe bolero jacket

 

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Candy Pink Felted Wool Coat

pink felted wool kimono coat

Lauren made this amazing kimono sleeved coat for her final year degree show using pink felted wool coating. It’s tied together through oversized eyelets, has an extended hem at the back and an embellished shawl collar. Soooo beautiful!

pink felted wool kimono coat

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Blue and Red Wool Tweed Ulster Coat

Wool Tweed Ulster Coat

Emma from Sweden is wearing her classic wool tweed 1970’s ulster made from the wonderful navy wool tweed she bought in the Autumn. She also made her dog a matching coat! 🙂 She loves the fabric!

The pattern is Very Easy Vogue 8699 from the 1970’s, (see picture). She made the coat a bit longer and wider than the pattern instructed. It’s a simple and straight-forward construction, but a bit unusual as no interfacing at all is used. The most special feature, in our opinion, is the contrast lining that shows on lapels, pockets, belt and sleeve bands. She used a light-weight worsted wool fabric for the lining. There is topstitching around the front and along the raglan sleeve seams.

Wool Tweed Ulster Coat belt detail Wool Tweed Ulster Coat

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Plummy Pink Wool Melton Coat with Shawl Collar

Plummy Pink Wool Melton Coat with Shawl Collar

The lovely Wendy with her plummy pink shawl collar jacket-weight wool Melton coat. It is super soft and lightweight, the lightness is continued with wool wadding in the collar and front facing. It is lined in jacquard coat lining, and there are tailored shoulder pads to add shape and help with the structure. There were a few telephone calls during the making of this coat over advice for what to use and where, it was worth all the deliberation, we think this coat is going to get a lot of wear over the coming years 🙂

The pattern is Katherine Tilton for Butterick B5960

Wendy’s comments:

The wool wading worked very well.  The collar and front facing are both interfaced with it.  Quite an interesting construction with the collar, front and front facing in one piece (for each side) with a dart to form the collar.  I tried various things in the hem, including the wool wading, but it seemed to need more weight so I used a 3” strip of the hair canvas in the end which worked well.  I have quite narrow, sloping shoulders so I had to give the shoulders/top of sleeves more structure with shoulder pads and sleeve heads which looked a lot better on me.  I also hand sewed the lining hem to the coat with a jump pleat rather than leaving it loose as the pattern suggested.  

jacquard spotty coat lining

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Roy Wood Wool Crepe Stage Coat

Roy Wood stage coat in bottle green and wine red wool crepe

This bottle green wool crepe coat with wine red cape was made by Catherine Davis as a remake of an original stage coat worn by Roy Wood (from Wizard & Electric Light Orchestra). Time was limited and decisions over the colours had to be done on the telephone which is not something we recommend but Catherine was very pleased.

Roy Wood stage coat in bottle green and wine red wool crepe

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Pink Wool Tweed Casual Jacket

pink tweed coat on top of the devon cliff

Bess on top of the South Devon Cliffs wearing her fabulous pink tweed jacket that was made by Jane a couple of Birthday’s ago and still going strong.

The lining is chartreuse satin lining on the sleeves and multicolour chevron printed cotton (quilting weight) for the body. The collar and facings are red jumbo corduroy because Bess didn’t want the tweed against her skin.

Pink Wool tweed jacket with red jumbo cord facings and collar

The design is an old burda fur jacket pattern -somewhat altered! Fur coat patterns are dead easy because they tend to have very boxy simple cuts.

Pink denim jacket with odd buttons
Pink denim jacket with odd buttons

This is basically a remake of a pink denim jacket Bess made earlier – but suitable for the winter. Even the buttons are the same.

 

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Blue Wool Challis A-Line Skirt with Scattered Artificial Petals

wool challis skirt with artificial petal embellishment

Bess made this skirt on a bit of a whim – the wool challis had been in her stash for some time (if you have ever worn wool challis you will understand why she stashes it). The petals mysteriously turned up in her handbag the morning after a somewhat riotous wedding and have been hoarded ever since. And so the skirt was born, with no idea if A) the wool was washable and B) the petals would leak colour if it was washed.

The skirt was made in an evening, the a-line pattern is an ancient Burda start pattern (3198) that has long since discontinued although Burda 8237 is pretty similar (if you get rid of the waistband), or if you lengthen 6682 (both super easy alterations). The skirt is lined in Venezia and lightweight knit interfacing was used on the facing. Bess did the thing she always tells her customers not to do- she cut the lining the same size as the skirt and it ended up pulling and being too small. The wool challis has quite a lot of give in it, the lining doesn’t so you should always cut the lining a fraction bigger to allow for the ease, so the lining had to be chopped out and raised to allow the room. It’s a little short but if she doesn’t tell anyone they will never know 😉

Finally she attached the petals by first arranging them by eye with pins and then sewing a single line of stitching down the middle of each petal.

wool challis skirt with artificial petal embellishment
This photo was taken after it had been washed and worn a few times so Bess got away with her washing machine roulette this time. Which is lucky because she LOVES this skirt!

 

wool challis skirt with artificial petal embellishment
Sewing the artificial petals on with the trusty Bernina sewing machine (and a lot of pins)

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Wool flared Coat with Faux Fur Collar

wool flared coat with faux fur collar

Emma sent in a pic of the winter coat she made – She bought the fabric AGES ago (her words- all of five months – that’s not ages in our book) as she thought it would take a while to make this coat. And it was indeed quite time consuming!

The outer is wool/polyamide melton coating, and the lining is turquoise blue acetate lining.  There is some hair canvas in there too 🙂

She used a vintage 1950s pattern.

She thanks the girls at Stone Fabrics for getting the choice of fabrics right – we sent me loads of samples and Bess answered about 1000 questions she had!

She’s now deciding on her next challenge…

Here it is on the back. How cool is that?

wool flared coat with faux fur collar
wool flared coat with faux fur collar

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Printed Boiled Wool Circular Skirt

Lizzy wearing boiled wool circle skirt

Lizzy with her boiled wool circular skirt. Lizzy has a paper pattern phobia and so usually just wings it. Luckily circular skirts are easier to wing than patterns so here we have a completed project and a proud owner 🙂

The boiled wool is quite stretchy so the waist came out bigger than anticipated. She has used cotton rib jersey as a yoke and then tied it in with plaited velvet ribbons to make a tail.

She then embroidered beads onto the ‘Lion’*… as you do.

bead embroidered boiled wool
beads embroidered onto printed boiled wool

back view of circle skirt
Back view showing the velvet ‘tail’

*Lizzy is completely convinced there is a lion hiding in the print (hence why she beaded him). Lizzy swears she has never taken drugs.

 

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Fawn Wool Mix Tweed Fitted Jacket

wool mix with cashmere soft tweed jacket

Anastasia modelling her fabulous fitted jacket made using Burdastyle magazine pattern 112b (from 3/2015). This fabric is jacket weight wool mix with cashmere soft tweed that looks super in such a well fitting little jacket.

one button closure on tweed jacket
one button closure on tweed jacket

slinky poly satin lining on tweed jacket
slinky poly satin lining on tweed jacket

wool mix with cashmere soft tweed suiting
wool mix with cashmere soft tweed suiting

Lined in printed polyester satin :4388

This jacket was made last May and Anastasia has worn it a LOT through Scotland’s not-so hot summer!

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Hand Embroidered and Painted Wool Tweed Skirt

hand embroidered children's drawings onto wool tweed skirt

Bess used her 5 and 8 year old niece’s fabulous drawings as inspiration for the embellishment on this wool tweed A-Line skirt. First she used white fabric paint and then embroidered using a heavy thread and added beads and sequins. It was all done by hand as the tweed is quite a loose weave and she was concerned machine embroidery would make it too stiff (certainly the kind of embroidery Bess has the patience for!).

It is lined in Venezia lining – turned on the lining with no waistband and bound with an ottoman (heavy) bias binding. Strips of Iron on interfacing tape were used to reinforce the back of the areas where the belt loops go. The concealed zip was moved from the back seam to the side so the back could be cut on the fold also. You rarely get any shaping on the back seam so if you have enough fabric to do this (it invariably takes extra on an a-line skirt) you can without brainache.

Bess is very fickle but this is her absolute favourite skirt at the moment.

hand embroidered childre's drawings onto wool tweed skirt
Butterfly

hand embroidered childre's drawings onto wool tweed skirt
house with roof blowing off

hand embroidered childre's drawings onto wool tweed skirt
house flower

hand embroidered childre's drawings onto wool tweed skirt
girl with yellow hair

hand embroidered childre's drawings onto wool tweed skirt
star flower

hand embroidered childre's drawings onto wool tweed skirt
Elsa from frozen with her high heels and plaited hair

hand embroidered childre's drawings onto wool tweed skirt
doodle

hand embroidered childre's drawings onto wool tweed skirt
doodle

hand embroidered childre's drawings onto wool tweed skirt
Pussy Cat

hand embroidered childre's drawings onto wool tweed skirt
house without a door

hand embroidered childre's drawings onto wool tweed skirt
robot

hand embroidered childre's drawings onto wool tweed skirt
star

hand embroidered childre's drawings onto wool tweed skirt
apple tree

hand embroidered childre's drawings onto wool tweed skirt
hem (Hong Kong finish)

hand embroidered childre's drawings onto wool tweed skirt
Belt detail. Don’t look too close at the bias stitching.

hand embroidered childre's drawings onto wool tweed skirt
wiggly worm

 

hand embroidered childre's drawings onto wool tweed skirt
hand embroidered children’s drawings onto wool tweed skirt

 

 

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Orange Bouclé Wool Mix Knit Braced Skirt and Jacket

orange bouclé wool mix knit braced skirt

Holly made this tangerine orange cotton wool and viscose mix bouclé heavy knit from LG as part of a Plymouth College of Art Fashion project to make a ‘skirt’ and cape as part of her university project. The not so practical skirt has large pockets – the entire front and back panels, braces to hold it up and metal boning through the top to hold the shape!  It was inspired by Cornish China Clay and they held a fashion show at the eden project to help raise money for the people and gardens charity.

It’s nuts. I want one. 

orange bouclé wool mix braced skirt -back
orange bouclé wool mix braced skirt -back

catwalk show of orange bouclé knit braced skirt
catwalk show of orange bouclé knit braced skirt

 

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Technicolour Chevron Jacket

missoni chevron wool mix fabric

This is Jacoba wearing her woven Italian Designer jacket, she said, “I am very pleased with it even if it is a little wide on the shoulders. I used Vogue 8933 but changed how the collar fastened at the end. It was too high for me in the original style despite my long neck so I just let the fabric go where it wanted to fold over- it seems to work and I have had huge compliments from all :-). I love the huge wooden poppers. It does lend itself to being worn solely with black – bright even by my standards!!”

This Italian Designer is a woven fabric with more stability than the knitted, it lends itself well to this type of jacket where you have no fiddly pockets, or such like.

Find more Italian Designer fabrics HERE

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Black and White Wool Coat

black and white coat with reversed contrast collar and pockets

Carole from our Cloth club made up this fab black and white coat utilising the reverse for contrast collar, pockets and facings. This was her first attempt as a coat and proof that everyone should try it!

Pattern is Vouge V8933 which was selected for it’s simple shape and the use of snaps rather than buttons. Carole’s version is a bit larger than the original design as she wanted a big snuggly coat to wear over a chunky jumper in the winter. The fabric is #4275 and I made use of both sides. She thanks the staff who suggested 3491 as a lining and also advised her to use organza to line the front which worked really well.

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Brown Wool Melton and Tweed Coat

brown wool melton and tweed coat

Brown wool coat made by Lesley (Twice!)

“I thought you might like to see the before and after of my coat.    The photo below is using a vintage vogue pattern which just looked so bad on that I only wore it twice.  So 2 years on, not wanting to waste the the fabric and with help from Jane I have just finished the coat pictured (above) and I am over the moon with it.  The second pattern is Katherine Tilton Butterick B5960.”

Brown wool coat using vintage vogue pattern
Brown wool coat using vintage vogue pattern

 

This is proof that it is worth persevering with a project that hasn’t gone exactly how you had anticipated.

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Fine Red Wool Dress with Giant Rickrack Trim

Bess wearing a Laurent Garigue fine red wool panelled dress with giant rickrack sewn around the neck, worn over red and white polka dot printed jersey raglan sleeved t-shirt.

The red wool comes with an organza trim down one selvedge, which Bess dutifully ignored (she did think she *might* use it on the hem, but Bess doesn’t feel comfortable in anything resembling a frill), it is possibly criminal to ignore what is essentially the wow factor of the fabric, but she has saved it and may well use it on something else in the future. The wool is fine and gorgeous – a kind of Varuna/Challis, and will be suitable to wear throughout the year.

The giant rickrack needed to be hand sewn so it would lay correctly; a slightly tedious operation (Bess likes to sew QUICKLY), but well worth it.

The dress is lined in a cotton and silk voile, so it is ever so light, but surprisingly warm.

There’s no zip-it just chucks over the head.

Fabrics and Notions:

Dress:

Red Laurent Garigue wool with silk organza pleated trim #3513,
Giant turquoise rickrack,
Fuchsia Pink Silk and Cotton voile lining. (Pattern: Bess’s own).

T-shirt:

Red polka dot viscose and elastane jersey, Pattern: Marcy Tilton for Vogue #8636 (lengthened sleeves and altered collar)

 

 

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Magenta Pink and Camel Check Worsted Wool Skirt

magenta and camel check wool worsted skirt

Jane wearing her neat little check skirt with kick pleat split in the back. You can’t tell by this photo but those checks match PERFECTLY (as if Jane would not match her checks). Turned on the Venezia lining with velvet piping on the waist

Fabrics and Notions:

Magenta and camel check wool worsted #3489
Shot magenta Venezia lining
Magenta velvet piping

Pattern: McCall’s M3830

 

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Alpaca and Wool Boucle Knit Jacket and Wool Crepe Skirt

Alpaca knit jacket and wool crepe skirt

Dolly wearing Alpaca and wool mix bouclé cardigan jacket with bluebell blue wool crepe A-Line skirt. To stabilise the loose weave of the jacket Jane mounted it on to cotton muslin before sewing. Made by Jane for Kath.

Fabrics and Notions:

Alpaca wool and acrylic cardigan jacket type tweed/knit #3197
Cotton Muslin (interlining)
Ivory silk double crepe (lining)
Blue satin bias binding (piping)
Blue lacquered coconut buttons

Bluebell wool crepe
Invisible zip
Velvet ready made piping
Venezia lining
3mm ribbons for trimming hem

 

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Black Wool and Mohair Double Breasted Coat

black wool and mohair coating

Bess ready for winter wearing her superb black wool and mohair coat lined with spotty red and purple Laurent Garigue twill silk. The collar and facings are interfaced with silk organza which kept it really light.

Fabrics and Notions:

Black Wool and Mohair Coating #3329
Laurent Garigue Spotty Print Silk Twill (lining)
Silk Organza
Half Round Silver Metal Buttons

Pattern: Burda Magazine -October 2012 edition.

spotty laurent garigue twill lining
spotty laurent garigue twill lining

 

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Boiled Wool Waterfall Unlined Jacket and Cotton Waffle Trousers

boiled wool waterfall jacket

Rachel (from classes) wearing her turquoise boiled wool waterfall jacket with red wool binding, and Paddy Campbell off-white cotton waffle wide leg trousers.

Fabrics and Notions:

Jacket:
Turquoise boiled wool
Red wool fold-over binding

Trousers:
Paddy Campbell off-white cotton waffle
Zip
Knitted iron-on interfacing

Patterns:
Jacket, McCall’s 5937
Trousers, Vogue 8717