Posted on

Wool flared Coat with Faux Fur Collar

wool flared coat with faux fur collar

Emma sent in a pic of the winter coat she made – She bought the fabric AGES ago (her words- all of five months – that’s not ages in our book) as she thought it would take a while to make this coat. And it was indeed quite time consuming!

The outer is wool/polyamide melton coating, and the lining is turquoise blue acetate lining.  There is some hair canvas in there too 🙂

She used a vintage 1950s pattern.

She thanks the girls at Stone Fabrics for getting the choice of fabrics right – we sent me loads of samples and Bess answered about 1000 questions she had!

She’s now deciding on her next challenge…

Here it is on the back. How cool is that?

wool flared coat with faux fur collar
wool flared coat with faux fur collar
Posted on

Printed Boiled Wool Circular Skirt

Lizzy wearing boiled wool circle skirt

Lizzy with her boiled wool circular skirt. Lizzy has a paper pattern phobia and so usually just wings it. Luckily circular skirts are easier to wing than patterns so here we have a completed project and a proud owner 🙂

The boiled wool is quite stretchy so the waist came out bigger than anticipated. She has used cotton rib jersey as a yoke and then tied it in with plaited velvet ribbons to make a tail.

She then embroidered beads onto the ‘Lion’*… as you do.

bead embroidered boiled wool
beads embroidered onto printed boiled wool
back view of circle skirt
Back view showing the velvet ‘tail’

*Lizzy is completely convinced there is a lion hiding in the print (hence why she beaded him). Lizzy swears she has never taken drugs.

 

Posted on

Fawn Wool Mix Tweed Fitted Jacket

wool mix with cashmere soft tweed jacket

Anastasia modelling her fabulous fitted jacket made using Burdastyle magazine pattern 112b (from 3/2015). This fabric is jacket weight wool mix with cashmere soft tweed that looks super in such a well fitting little jacket.

one button closure on tweed jacket
one button closure on tweed jacket
slinky poly satin lining on tweed jacket
slinky poly satin lining on tweed jacket
wool mix with cashmere soft tweed suiting
wool mix with cashmere soft tweed suiting

Lined in printed polyester satin :4388

This jacket was made last May and Anastasia has worn it a LOT through Scotland’s not-so hot summer!

Posted on

Hand Embroidered and Painted Wool Tweed Skirt

hand embroidered children's drawings onto wool tweed skirt

Bess used her 5 and 8 year old niece’s fabulous drawings as inspiration for the embellishment on this wool tweed A-Line skirt. First she used white fabric paint and then embroidered using a heavy thread and added beads and sequins. It was all done by hand as the tweed is quite a loose weave and she was concerned machine embroidery would make it too stiff (certainly the kind of embroidery Bess has the patience for!).

It is lined in Venezia lining – turned on the lining with no waistband and bound with an ottoman (heavy) bias binding. Strips of Iron on interfacing tape were used to reinforce the back of the areas where the belt loops go. The concealed zip was moved from the back seam to the side so the back could be cut on the fold also. You rarely get any shaping on the back seam so if you have enough fabric to do this (it invariably takes extra on an a-line skirt) you can without brainache.

Bess is very fickle but this is her absolute favourite skirt at the moment.

hand embroidered childre's drawings onto wool tweed skirt
Butterfly
hand embroidered childre's drawings onto wool tweed skirt
house with roof blowing off
hand embroidered childre's drawings onto wool tweed skirt
house flower
hand embroidered childre's drawings onto wool tweed skirt
girl with yellow hair
hand embroidered childre's drawings onto wool tweed skirt
star flower
hand embroidered childre's drawings onto wool tweed skirt
Elsa from frozen with her high heels and plaited hair
hand embroidered childre's drawings onto wool tweed skirt
doodle
hand embroidered childre's drawings onto wool tweed skirt
doodle
hand embroidered childre's drawings onto wool tweed skirt
Pussy Cat
hand embroidered childre's drawings onto wool tweed skirt
house without a door
hand embroidered childre's drawings onto wool tweed skirt
robot
hand embroidered childre's drawings onto wool tweed skirt
star
hand embroidered childre's drawings onto wool tweed skirt
apple tree
hand embroidered childre's drawings onto wool tweed skirt
hem (Hong Kong finish)
hand embroidered childre's drawings onto wool tweed skirt
Belt detail. Don’t look too close at the bias stitching.
hand embroidered childre's drawings onto wool tweed skirt
wiggly worm

 

hand embroidered childre's drawings onto wool tweed skirt
hand embroidered children’s drawings onto wool tweed skirt

 

 

Posted on

Orange Bouclé Wool Mix Knit Braced Skirt and Jacket

orange bouclé wool mix knit braced skirt

Holly made this tangerine orange cotton wool and viscose mix bouclé heavy knit from LG as part of a Plymouth College of Art Fashion project to make a ‘skirt’ and cape as part of her university project. The not so practical skirt has large pockets – the entire front and back panels, braces to hold it up and metal boning through the top to hold the shape!  It was inspired by Cornish China Clay and they held a fashion show at the eden project to help raise money for the people and gardens charity.

It’s nuts. I want one. 

orange bouclé wool mix braced skirt -back
orange bouclé wool mix braced skirt -back
catwalk show of orange bouclé knit braced skirt
catwalk show of orange bouclé knit braced skirt

 

Posted on

Technicolour Chevron Jacket

missoni chevron wool mix fabric

This is Jacoba wearing her woven Italian Designer jacket, she said, “I am very pleased with it even if it is a little wide on the shoulders. I used Vogue 8933 but changed how the collar fastened at the end. It was too high for me in the original style despite my long neck so I just let the fabric go where it wanted to fold over- it seems to work and I have had huge compliments from all :-). I love the huge wooden poppers. It does lend itself to being worn solely with black – bright even by my standards!!”

This Italian Designer is a woven fabric with more stability than the knitted, it lends itself well to this type of jacket where you have no fiddly pockets, or such like.

Find more Italian Designer fabrics HERE

Posted on

Black and White Wool Coat

black and white coat with reversed contrast collar and pockets

Carole from our Cloth club made up this fab black and white coat utilising the reverse for contrast collar, pockets and facings. This was her first attempt as a coat and proof that everyone should try it!

Pattern is Vouge V8933 which was selected for it’s simple shape and the use of snaps rather than buttons. Carole’s version is a bit larger than the original design as she wanted a big snuggly coat to wear over a chunky jumper in the winter. The fabric is #4275 and I made use of both sides. She thanks the staff who suggested 3491 as a lining and also advised her to use organza to line the front which worked really well.

Posted on

Brown Wool Melton and Tweed Coat

brown wool melton and tweed coat

Brown wool coat made by Lesley (Twice!)

“I thought you might like to see the before and after of my coat.    The photo below is using a vintage vogue pattern which just looked so bad on that I only wore it twice.  So 2 years on, not wanting to waste the the fabric and with help from Jane I have just finished the coat pictured (above) and I am over the moon with it.  The second pattern is Katherine Tilton Butterick B5960.”

Brown wool coat using vintage vogue pattern
Brown wool coat using vintage vogue pattern

 

This is proof that it is worth persevering with a project that hasn’t gone exactly how you had anticipated.

Posted on

Fine Red Wool Dress with Giant Rickrack Trim

Bess wearing a Laurent Garigue fine red wool panelled dress with giant rickrack sewn around the neck, worn over red and white polka dot printed jersey raglan sleeved t-shirt.

The red wool comes with an organza trim down one selvedge, which Bess dutifully ignored (she did think she *might* use it on the hem, but Bess doesn’t feel comfortable in anything resembling a frill), it is possibly criminal to ignore what is essentially the wow factor of the fabric, but she has saved it and may well use it on something else in the future. The wool is fine and gorgeous – a kind of Varuna/Challis, and will be suitable to wear throughout the year.

The giant rickrack needed to be hand sewn so it would lay correctly; a slightly tedious operation (Bess likes to sew QUICKLY), but well worth it.

The dress is lined in a cotton and silk voile, so it is ever so light, but surprisingly warm.

There’s no zip-it just chucks over the head.

Fabrics and Notions:

Dress:

Red Laurent Garigue wool with silk organza pleated trim #3513,
Giant turquoise rickrack,
Fuchsia Pink Silk and Cotton voile lining. (Pattern: Bess’s own).

T-shirt:

Red polka dot viscose and elastane jersey, Pattern: Marcy Tilton for Vogue #8636 (lengthened sleeves and altered collar)

 

 

Posted on

Magenta Pink and Camel Check Worsted Wool Skirt

magenta and camel check wool worsted skirt

Jane wearing her neat little check skirt with kick pleat split in the back. You can’t tell by this photo but those checks match PERFECTLY (as if Jane would not match her checks). Turned on the Venezia lining with velvet piping on the waist

Fabrics and Notions:

Magenta and camel check wool worsted #3489
Shot magenta Venezia lining
Magenta velvet piping

Pattern: McCall’s M3830

 

Posted on

Alpaca and Wool Boucle Knit Jacket and Wool Crepe Skirt

Alpaca knit jacket and wool crepe skirt

Dolly wearing Alpaca and wool mix bouclé cardigan jacket with bluebell blue wool crepe A-Line skirt. To stabilise the loose weave of the jacket Jane mounted it on to cotton muslin before sewing. Made by Jane for Kath.

Fabrics and Notions:

Alpaca wool and acrylic cardigan jacket type tweed/knit #3197
Cotton Muslin (interlining)
Ivory silk double crepe (lining)
Blue satin bias binding (piping)
Blue lacquered coconut buttons

Bluebell wool crepe
Invisible zip
Velvet ready made piping
Venezia lining
3mm ribbons for trimming hem

 

Posted on

Black Wool and Mohair Double Breasted Coat

black wool and mohair coating

Bess ready for winter wearing her superb black wool and mohair coat lined with spotty red and purple Laurent Garigue twill silk. The collar and facings are interfaced with silk organza which kept it really light.

Fabrics and Notions:

Black Wool and Mohair Coating #3329
Laurent Garigue Spotty Print Silk Twill (lining)
Silk Organza
Half Round Silver Metal Buttons

Pattern: Burda Magazine -October 2012 edition.

spotty laurent garigue twill lining
spotty laurent garigue twill lining

 

Posted on

Boiled Wool Waterfall Unlined Jacket and Cotton Waffle Trousers

boiled wool waterfall jacket

Rachel (from classes) wearing her turquoise boiled wool waterfall jacket with red wool binding, and Paddy Campbell off-white cotton waffle wide leg trousers.

Fabrics and Notions:

Jacket:
Turquoise boiled wool
Red wool fold-over binding

Trousers:
Paddy Campbell off-white cotton waffle
Zip
Knitted iron-on interfacing

Patterns:
Jacket, McCall’s 5937
Trousers, Vogue 8717

Posted on

Tweed Cardigan Jacket Style Jacket and Tweed Check Skirt

Chanel Wool Tweed Jacket and Skirt

A rare photo of Jane taken in London wearing her mixed fibre tweed jacket quilted in the traditional cardigan jacket manner with added chain weight and fringe trimmings. Turquoise and chartreuse wool tweed skirt with kick pleat and pink lining (made by Bess).

Fabrics and Notions:
Jacket:
Mixed fibre cardigan jacket type tweed
Printed silk satin lining
Silk organza (just the selvedge, used for staying the edges and hem)
Acrylic fringe trim
Chain
Double cover buttons

Skirt:
Turquoise and chartreuse big check wool tweed
Pink Venezia lining
Pink velvet piping
Invisible zip

 

 

Posted on

Spotty Reversible Grosgrain and Wool Coat with Zero Print Skirt

spotty grosgrain coat and printed stretch cotton a-line skirt

Bess wearing reversible coat made years and years ago using grosgrain polkadot and green Laurent Garigue worsted wool.
Also wearing a long a-line skirt using a Donna Karan Vogue pattern.

Fabrics and Notions:
Coat:
Polka dot printed grosgrain viscose and cotton
Laurent Garigue green worsted wool
Cover buttons (wired together so as to be double sided)
Viscose iron-on interfacing

Skirt:
Red zero print stretch cotton drill
Viscose iron-on interfacing
Turquoise satin piping
Invisible zip
Turquoise narrow petersham (belt loops)
Black 25mm cotton petersham (tie)

Posted on

Viscose Elastane Red Polka Dot T-Shirt and Silk Wool Tweed Pinafore Dress

wool and silk mix tweed pinafore dress and spotty red and white viscose elastane t-shirt

Jessie wearing her red viscose and elastane polka dot t-shirt made by Bess, and Bess wearing her wool and silk tweed pinafore dress with Birdy pockets and circle jersey inserts.
(They were trying to move faster than the camera flash- clearly not fast enough)

Fabrics and Notions:
Jessie wears:
Red polka dot printed viscose elastane jersey
Lightweight knitted iron-on interfacing
Stay tape
Reinforced iron-on stay tape

Bess wears:
Wool and silk tweed pinafore dress
Red polka dot viscose and elastane jersey (pockets and inserts)
Medium weight knitted iron-on interfacing

That T-shirt again, in slight slower motion:

red pinspot viscose and elastane jersey t-shirt
red pinspot viscose and elastane jersey t-shirt
Posted on

Cotton Drill Twister Skirt and Wool Mesh Hoody with Ears

cotton drill zippy twister skirt and wool gauze jersey hoody with ears

Megan wears chartreuse cotton drill A-line skirt with a spiral zip inserted, worn with a grey wool mesh hoody top with ears, designed by Bess

Fabrics and Notions:
Skirt:
Charteuse cotton drill
White continuouse zipping
Viscose acetate spot print lining (Inside zip)
Black venezia lining
Invisible zip
Bias binding
Black fold-over grosgrain binding
Top:
Wool stretch mesh
Stretch semi-sheer turquoise lycra binding

Patterns: Bess’s own

Modelled below by Bronte showing what happens when you undo the zip

unzipped continuous zipping twister skirt
unzipped continuous zipping twister skirt
Posted on

Angora Wool Mix Jumper and Zippy Dogtooth Wool Skirt

wool and angora monster glove jumper and panelled wool zippy skirt

Megan (spinning) and Bronte (triptych)  modelling angora and wool mix jumper with red viscose jersey circle insert and monster gloves, and charcoal grey dogtooth worsted wool with zipped panels revealing printed silk habotai inserts.

Fabrics and Notions:
Jumper:
Wool and angora stripe rib jersey
Red viscose and elastane jersey (circle insert, covered buttons and glove linings)
Wool wadding (Inside circle insert)
Covered buttons
Bias binding cut from jersey
Stay tape
Viscose iron-on interfacing

Skirt:
Charcoal 80% Wool 20% Poly dogtooth check brushed worsted wool
Digitally printed silk habotai
Red continuous zipping
Black grosgrain fold-over binding
Invisible zip
Backing button
Bias binding
Iron-on stabilising tape

angora wool jersey jumper with monster gloves
angora wool jersey jumper with monster gloves
Posted on

Quilted Hooded Jacket with Worsted Wool and Jersey Draped Skirt

quilted jersey jacket and jersey draped skirt

Becky modelling Lucinda’s quilted cotton hooded jacket  with laser cut leaf embellishments, and worsted wool shaped yoke with jersey draped skirt (made using the Julian Roberts sub-cutting method)

Fabrics and Notions:
Skirt:
Marble print viscose and elastane jersey
Chocolate brown English worsted wool
Red viscose and elastane jersey
Invisible zip

Jacket:
Dyed calico
Laser cut leaves from ultrasuade, jersey and calico
Blue viscose (lining)
Wadding
Cotton bias binding

T-shirt:
Viscose elastane jersey

Posted on

Issey Miyake Coat

aubergine wool coating issey miyake coat

Poppy returning to the shop in her wonderful Issey Miyake designed alpaca wool tweed coat.

Fabrics and Notions:
Alpaca wool tweed
Pattern: Vogue (Issey Miyake)

This pattern has been going for years, it is cut in classic Issey fashion in that you don’t know what on earth is going on until it is all put together. It’s like witchcraft. Remember when choosing a coat like this that takes so much fabric (about four and a half metres, with hardly any wastage) to pick something light- unless you want to build up muscles!