Nikki with her boiled wool loose swing jacket made a wool mix boiled wool and batik printed bias binding around all edges.
The boiled wool is excellent for these loose style unlined jackets as they are virtually the same either side so look nice when it swings back.
Carole from our cloth club wearing her lightweight wool melton jacket using McCalls pattern M5668 which she chose due to their being no buttonholes and only the sleeves are lined. (Carole thinks she is a novice but we think she undersells herself).
Bernie from our Cloth Club wearing palest pink Solstiss lace bolero and linen dress at her Goddaughter’s wedding.
The Bolero is lined on the body but not the sleeves using silk and cotton voile and the linen dress is lined in Venezia.
Lennie from our Cloth Club made this beautiful cardigan jacket using Linton Tweed and trimming with organza that she ruffled herself. The Vogue Pattern used (V8804) details how to do the traditional quilting that helps to stabilise this very loose weave fabric, there is additional advice in the Claire Shaeffer’s couture sewing techniques book, and we have a leaflet we can send you with tips. It is important to choose a lightweight lining (such as silk crepe de chine) as more stable linings (whilst easier to work with) can stiffen the jacket up too much once quilted; the jacket should remain soft, more like a cardigan).
Fabrics and Notions:
Cardigan jacket type tweed
Ivory Silk Organza (for interlining and trimming)
Silk Crepe de Chine (lining)
Buttons
Pattern: Vogue 8804
Elaine wearing her chartreuse green tweed cardigan jacket
Fabrics and Notions:
Cardigan Jacket type tweed
Venezia lining
Buttons
Medium knitted interlining
Pattern: Vogue 7975
Dolly wearing Alpaca and wool mix bouclé cardigan jacket with bluebell blue wool crepe A-Line skirt. To stabilise the loose weave of the jacket Jane mounted it on to cotton muslin before sewing. Made by Jane for Kath.
Fabrics and Notions:
Alpaca wool and acrylic cardigan jacket type tweed/knit #3197
Cotton Muslin (interlining)
Ivory silk double crepe (lining)
Blue satin bias binding (piping)
Blue lacquered coconut buttons
Bluebell wool crepe
Invisible zip
Velvet ready made piping
Venezia lining
3mm ribbons for trimming hem
Louis wearing his black fleece zip up jacket made up at the Steiner school (taught by Jane Norris)
Fabrics and Notions:
Black Polyester Fleece
Open End Chunky Zip
Rachel wearing stretch cotton jacket with embossed squares, eyelet tape and various trims, and elephant printed floppy viscose panelled skirt.
Fabrics and Notions:
Jacket:
Black embossed stretch cotton
Black hatch print Linen (border/collar)
Velvet ribbon
Suedette eyelet tape
Haematite beads
Machine embroidery
Pattern: Marcy Tilton (discontinued)
Skirt:
Elephant print viscose
Medium weight knitted iron-on interfacing
Invisible zip
Rachel (from classes) wearing her turquoise boiled wool waterfall jacket with red wool binding, and Paddy Campbell off-white cotton waffle wide leg trousers.
Fabrics and Notions:
Jacket:
Turquoise boiled wool
Red wool fold-over binding
Trousers:
Paddy Campbell off-white cotton waffle
Zip
Knitted iron-on interfacing
Patterns:
Jacket, McCall’s 5937
Trousers, Vogue 8717
A rare photo of Jane taken in London wearing her mixed fibre tweed jacket quilted in the traditional cardigan jacket manner with added chain weight and fringe trimmings. Turquoise and chartreuse wool tweed skirt with kick pleat and pink lining (made by Bess).
Fabrics and Notions:
Jacket:
Mixed fibre cardigan jacket type tweed
Printed silk satin lining
Silk organza (just the selvedge, used for staying the edges and hem)
Acrylic fringe trim
Chain
Double cover buttons
Skirt:
Turquoise and chartreuse big check wool tweed
Pink Venezia lining
Pink velvet piping
Invisible zip
Clair wearing boxy winter white boiled wool cardigan jacket with black trim, and guipure lace skirt
Fabrics and Notions:
Jacket:
Winter white boiled wool
Black fold over acrylic/wool binding
Skirt:
Black guipure lace
Ivory Venezia
Invisible zip
Bias binding and piping
Becky modelling Lucinda’s quilted cotton hooded jacket with laser cut leaf embellishments, and worsted wool shaped yoke with jersey draped skirt (made using the Julian Roberts sub-cutting method)
Fabrics and Notions:
Skirt:
Marble print viscose and elastane jersey
Chocolate brown English worsted wool
Red viscose and elastane jersey
Invisible zip
Jacket:
Dyed calico
Laser cut leaves from ultrasuade, jersey and calico
Blue viscose (lining)
Wadding
Cotton bias binding
T-shirt:
Viscose elastane jersey
Luka the siamese cat in cashmere coat (Model’s own). Bess in Laurent Garigue waffle cotton boxy jacket with red silk grosgrain trim (made by Jane)
Fabrics and Notions:
Laurent Garigue waffle cotton
Red silk grosgrain
Large poppas (self covered)
White Bremsilk lining
Carole from our Cloth Club wearing her orange boiled wool unlined and unstructured jacket
Fabrics and Notions:
Burnt orange 100% boiled wool
Pattern: Butterick 4707 (modified)
Boiled wools vary in thickness and quality and thus vary in care instructions too – despite what the name suggests, a boiled wool with a high wool content is unlikely to be washable (they shrink to Tiny Tears Dolly size in one wash).
Clair wears black and white traditionally made cardigan jacket with matching straight skirt
Fabrics and Notions:
Mahlia black and white mixed fibres tweed
Purple silk habotai lining
Silk thread (for quilting)
Beaded fur trim
Decorative chain (for hem)
Silk organza (stabilising)
Salvaged Chanel ribbon
The trick to making a cardigan jacket look authentic (amongst other tricks) is to cut the sleeves skinny, and tight, up into the arm hole. It may feel like you are going to restrict movement doing this, but in fact the opposite is true. Try it, you will be pleasantly surprised.
Jane wearing a linen jacket to Bess’s wedding, made with pink and green panels, embellished with machine embroidery.
Fabrics and Notions:
Fuchsia Pink & Lime green heavy washed linen
Small self-cover buttons
Satin bias binding and piping cord
Venezia lining
Viscose iron-on interfacing
Pattern: Custom made
Bess wearing her turquoise corduroy jacket with big 1960’s buttons and lined in Kaffe Fassett printed cotton.
Fabrics and Notions:
Turquoise corduroy
Kaffe Fassett printed cotton
Big 1960’s period buttons
Jeans rivets
Bias binding
Black stayflex cotton iron on interlining
5 years on (not pictured) Red grosgrain foldover binding (around cuffs to cover fraying)
