Bess used a heavy 10oz 100% cotton denim to make these jeans using the Deer and Doe ‘Narcisse’ pants which is designed for medium weight fabrics such as linen or worsted suiting. Due to the weight Bess didn’t want darts – the front darts were moved into side and centre front seam, the back darts were turned into a yoke*. She also wasn’t sure about inseam pockets on such a heavy denim so used regular jean pockets and the back welt pockets were swapped for patch pockets.
The pattern was sized down quite a bit as this denim is too heavy to be too big, bias stay tape on the pocket – it works a treat and keeps that pocket opening the size and shape the sewing gods wanted
*Drafting a yoke from the back darts is super easy First, take your back trouser pattern and make a horizontal cut near the top of the pattern piece to make the yoke. When you are cutting, it should kind of yoke-shaped, ie, angled higher at the side seams and lower at the center back. Your cut should touch the tip of the dart(s). Take the yoke that you cut off, slash through the darts and close them. This will change the shape of the pattern piece and if it becomes too ‘pointy’ just smooth off a little to make it a nice curve. Add seam allowances to both yoke and trouser seams. Works every time 👍
