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Orange Bouclé Wool Mix Knit Braced Skirt and Jacket

orange bouclé wool mix knit braced skirt

Holly made this tangerine orange cotton wool and viscose mix bouclé heavy knit from LG as part of a Plymouth College of Art Fashion project to make a ‘skirt’ and cape as part of her university project. The not so practical skirt has large pockets – the entire front and back panels, braces to hold it up and metal boning through the top to hold the shape!  It was inspired by Cornish China Clay and they held a fashion show at the eden project to help raise money for the people and gardens charity.

It’s nuts. I want one. 

orange bouclé wool mix braced skirt -back
orange bouclé wool mix braced skirt -back
catwalk show of orange bouclé knit braced skirt
catwalk show of orange bouclé knit braced skirt

 

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Black and White Wool Coat

black and white coat with reversed contrast collar and pockets

Carole from our Cloth club made up this fab black and white coat utilising the reverse for contrast collar, pockets and facings. This was her first attempt as a coat and proof that everyone should try it!

Pattern is Vouge V8933 which was selected for it’s simple shape and the use of snaps rather than buttons. Carole’s version is a bit larger than the original design as she wanted a big snuggly coat to wear over a chunky jumper in the winter. The fabric is #4275 and I made use of both sides. She thanks the staff who suggested 3491 as a lining and also advised her to use organza to line the front which worked really well.

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Brown Wool Melton and Tweed Coat

brown wool melton and tweed coat

Brown wool coat made by Lesley (Twice!)

“I thought you might like to see the before and after of my coat.    The photo below is using a vintage vogue pattern which just looked so bad on that I only wore it twice.  So 2 years on, not wanting to waste the the fabric and with help from Jane I have just finished the coat pictured (above) and I am over the moon with it.  The second pattern is Katherine Tilton Butterick B5960.”

Brown wool coat using vintage vogue pattern
Brown wool coat using vintage vogue pattern

 

This is proof that it is worth persevering with a project that hasn’t gone exactly how you had anticipated.

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Fine Red Wool Dress with Giant Rickrack Trim

Bess wearing a Laurent Garigue fine red wool panelled dress with giant rickrack sewn around the neck, worn over red and white polka dot printed jersey raglan sleeved t-shirt.

The red wool comes with an organza trim down one selvedge, which Bess dutifully ignored (she did think she *might* use it on the hem, but Bess doesn’t feel comfortable in anything resembling a frill), it is possibly criminal to ignore what is essentially the wow factor of the fabric, but she has saved it and may well use it on something else in the future. The wool is fine and gorgeous – a kind of Varuna/Challis, and will be suitable to wear throughout the year.

The giant rickrack needed to be hand sewn so it would lay correctly; a slightly tedious operation (Bess likes to sew QUICKLY), but well worth it.

The dress is lined in a cotton and silk voile, so it is ever so light, but surprisingly warm.

There’s no zip-it just chucks over the head.

Fabrics and Notions:

Dress:

Red Laurent Garigue wool with silk organza pleated trim #3513,
Giant turquoise rickrack,
Fuchsia Pink Silk and Cotton voile lining. (Pattern: Bess’s own).

T-shirt:

Red polka dot viscose and elastane jersey, Pattern: Marcy Tilton for Vogue #8636 (lengthened sleeves and altered collar)

 

 

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Magenta Pink and Camel Check Worsted Wool Skirt

magenta and camel check wool worsted skirt

Jane wearing her neat little check skirt with kick pleat split in the back. You can’t tell by this photo but those checks match PERFECTLY (as if Jane would not match her checks). Turned on the Venezia lining with velvet piping on the waist

Fabrics and Notions:

Magenta and camel check wool worsted #3489
Shot magenta Venezia lining
Magenta velvet piping

Pattern: McCall’s M3830

 

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Alpaca and Wool Boucle Knit Jacket and Wool Crepe Skirt

Alpaca knit jacket and wool crepe skirt

Dolly wearing Alpaca and wool mix bouclé cardigan jacket with bluebell blue wool crepe A-Line skirt. To stabilise the loose weave of the jacket Jane mounted it on to cotton muslin before sewing. Made by Jane for Kath.

Fabrics and Notions:

Alpaca wool and acrylic cardigan jacket type tweed/knit #3197
Cotton Muslin (interlining)
Ivory silk double crepe (lining)
Blue satin bias binding (piping)
Blue lacquered coconut buttons

Bluebell wool crepe
Invisible zip
Velvet ready made piping
Venezia lining
3mm ribbons for trimming hem

 

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Black Wool and Mohair Double Breasted Coat

black wool and mohair coating

Bess ready for winter wearing her superb black wool and mohair coat lined with spotty red and purple Laurent Garigue twill silk. The collar and facings are interfaced with silk organza which kept it really light.

Fabrics and Notions:

Black Wool and Mohair Coating #3329
Laurent Garigue Spotty Print Silk Twill (lining)
Silk Organza
Half Round Silver Metal Buttons

Pattern: Burda Magazine -October 2012 edition.

spotty laurent garigue twill lining
spotty laurent garigue twill lining

 

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Bright Blue Worsted Wool Skirt Suit with Matching Bag

bright blue worsted wool skirt suit

Philippa wearing her beautifully made worsted wool skirt suit with checkerboard weave and matching bag.

Fabrics and Notions:

Bright Blue checkerboard weave worsted virgin wool.
Thai silk block printed lining
Lacquered shell buttons (jacket)
Invisible zip (skirt)
Viscose iron-on interfacing
Clasp (bag) from grandmother’s treasure box.

Patterns (all altered, but based upon):

Jacket: Vogue 1643
Skirt: McCall’s 5523
Bag: from the book, Making Vintage Handbags by Emma Brennan

bright blue worsted wool suit with silk lining
bright blue worsted wool suit with silk lining

phillipa-blue-suit-buttons

bright blue worsted wool skirt suit
bright blue worsted wool skirt suit
bright blue worsted wool vintage bag
bright blue worsted wool vintage bag
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Boiled Wool Waterfall Unlined Jacket and Cotton Waffle Trousers

boiled wool waterfall jacket

Rachel (from classes) wearing her turquoise boiled wool waterfall jacket with red wool binding, and Paddy Campbell off-white cotton waffle wide leg trousers.

Fabrics and Notions:

Jacket:
Turquoise boiled wool
Red wool fold-over binding

Trousers:
Paddy Campbell off-white cotton waffle
Zip
Knitted iron-on interfacing

Patterns:
Jacket, McCall’s 5937
Trousers, Vogue 8717

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Spotty Reversible Grosgrain and Wool Coat with Zero Print Skirt

spotty grosgrain coat and printed stretch cotton a-line skirt

Bess wearing reversible coat made years and years ago using grosgrain polkadot and green Laurent Garigue worsted wool.
Also wearing a long a-line skirt using a Donna Karan Vogue pattern.

Fabrics and Notions:
Coat:
Polka dot printed grosgrain viscose and cotton
Laurent Garigue green worsted wool
Cover buttons (wired together so as to be double sided)
Viscose iron-on interfacing

Skirt:
Red zero print stretch cotton drill
Viscose iron-on interfacing
Turquoise satin piping
Invisible zip
Turquoise narrow petersham (belt loops)
Black 25mm cotton petersham (tie)

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Viscose Elastane Red Polka Dot T-Shirt and Silk Wool Tweed Pinafore Dress

wool and silk mix tweed pinafore dress and spotty red and white viscose elastane t-shirt

Jessie wearing her red viscose and elastane polka dot t-shirt made by Bess, and Bess wearing her wool and silk tweed pinafore dress with Birdy pockets and circle jersey inserts.
(They were trying to move faster than the camera flash- clearly not fast enough)

Fabrics and Notions:
Jessie wears:
Red polka dot printed viscose elastane jersey
Lightweight knitted iron-on interfacing
Stay tape
Reinforced iron-on stay tape

Bess wears:
Wool and silk tweed pinafore dress
Red polka dot viscose and elastane jersey (pockets and inserts)
Medium weight knitted iron-on interfacing

That T-shirt again, in slight slower motion:

red pinspot viscose and elastane jersey t-shirt
red pinspot viscose and elastane jersey t-shirt
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Cotton Drill Twister Skirt and Wool Mesh Hoody with Ears

cotton drill zippy twister skirt and wool gauze jersey hoody with ears

Megan wears chartreuse cotton drill A-line skirt with a spiral zip inserted, worn with a grey wool mesh hoody top with ears, designed by Bess

Fabrics and Notions:
Skirt:
Charteuse cotton drill
White continuouse zipping
Viscose acetate spot print lining (Inside zip)
Black venezia lining
Invisible zip
Bias binding
Black fold-over grosgrain binding
Top:
Wool stretch mesh
Stretch semi-sheer turquoise lycra binding

Patterns: Bess’s own

Modelled below by Bronte showing what happens when you undo the zip

unzipped continuous zipping twister skirt
unzipped continuous zipping twister skirt
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Angora Wool Mix Jumper and Zippy Dogtooth Wool Skirt

wool and angora monster glove jumper and panelled wool zippy skirt

Megan (spinning) and Bronte (triptych)  modelling angora and wool mix jumper with red viscose jersey circle insert and monster gloves, and charcoal grey dogtooth worsted wool with zipped panels revealing printed silk habotai inserts.

Fabrics and Notions:
Jumper:
Wool and angora stripe rib jersey
Red viscose and elastane jersey (circle insert, covered buttons and glove linings)
Wool wadding (Inside circle insert)
Covered buttons
Bias binding cut from jersey
Stay tape
Viscose iron-on interfacing

Skirt:
Charcoal 80% Wool 20% Poly dogtooth check brushed worsted wool
Digitally printed silk habotai
Red continuous zipping
Black grosgrain fold-over binding
Invisible zip
Backing button
Bias binding
Iron-on stabilising tape

angora wool jersey jumper with monster gloves
angora wool jersey jumper with monster gloves
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Quilted Hooded Jacket with Worsted Wool and Jersey Draped Skirt

quilted jersey jacket and jersey draped skirt

Becky modelling Lucinda’s quilted cotton hooded jacket  with laser cut leaf embellishments, and worsted wool shaped yoke with jersey draped skirt (made using the Julian Roberts sub-cutting method)

Fabrics and Notions:
Skirt:
Marble print viscose and elastane jersey
Chocolate brown English worsted wool
Red viscose and elastane jersey
Invisible zip

Jacket:
Dyed calico
Laser cut leaves from ultrasuade, jersey and calico
Blue viscose (lining)
Wadding
Cotton bias binding

T-shirt:
Viscose elastane jersey

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Orange Boiled wool Unlined Jacket

orange boiled wool unlined jacket

Carole from our Cloth Club wearing her orange boiled wool unlined and unstructured jacket

Fabrics and Notions:
Burnt orange 100% boiled wool
Pattern: Butterick 4707 (modified)

Boiled wools vary in thickness and quality and thus vary in care instructions too – despite what the name suggests, a boiled wool with a high wool content is unlikely to be washable (they shrink to Tiny Tears Dolly size in one wash).

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Blue Wool Melton Frill Skirt

wool melton frill skirt

Jane wearing wool melton skirt with frill hem. (Made by Clair)
Fabric and Notions:
Wool Melton coating
Shot Taffeta Frill lining, Venezia Lining
Viscose iron-on interfacing
Piping with bias binding
Invisible zip
Pattern: Simplicity 3881

Wool melton is traditionally used for coats and heavy jackets, but can be used on other garments when the structural characteristics of a coating wool is required. (It’s a good idea to use co-ordinating lighter fabrics to make up facings, if required)

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Wool Quilted Coat

red check wool tweed coat quilted with wool wadding

Bess with her super-warm wool wadding quilted wool tweed coat
The hood unzips to flatten out as a collar, and the sleeves have big box pleats that get graunched in at the cuff. The Gucci coat that inspired it was made from proofed nylon and stuffed with down.
Fabrics and Notions:
Shetland Wool Tweed
100% Wool Batting (for the quilting)
Tactel Breathable Windproof lining
Viscose iron-on interfacing
Satin Bias Binding and piping cord
Open-end metal zips
Anorak Snap Fasteners
Pattern: Custom made

There is a fine pink window-pane check in this coat, that would completely disappear from view at night time, there was a certain amount of swearing done when trying to match the invisible checks, but (as of May 2012) this coat has survived Bess’s tom-boy antics for six winters, with little more than a biro-ink stain. This is the go-to-coat-of-choice as soon as the temperature drops, so it was definitely worth it

12702

12702

Black 100% Wool exceptionally wide felted Melton Coating from Riverside

06647

6647

Navy Marl Poly Wool Elastane stretch Worsted Suiting

H0025

F007

Black medium weight polyamide knitted iron-on interfacing. A brilliant soft knitted interfacing for speed tailoring and general use when a soft stabilised finish is required. Use on both woven and jersey/knitted fabrics, EG medium/heavy linen, light/medium wool, medium weight cotton twill/broadcloth and jumper knits. We recommend using a pressing cloth with all fusible interfacings.

13026

13026

Ivory Cream 86% Viscose 14% Wool drapey medium weight Crepe

13004

13004

Navy Blue 97% Wool 3% Elastane waffle textured drapey Crepe from Riverside

12977

12977

Airforce Blue 55% Silk 45% Wool crosshatch 10cm check drapey Suiting from Riverside

12976

12976

Chartreuse Yellow 100% Wool tropical weight Worsted Suiting with integral small amount of stretch, from Riverside

12974

12974

Chambray Denim Blue 100% Wool tropical weight Worsted Suiting with integral small amount of stretch, from Riverside

12975

12975

Duck Egg Blue 100% Wool tropical weight Worsted Suiting with integral small amount of stretch, from Riverside