Author: stonefabrics

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Trellis Print Lawn Sleeveless Shirt

printed cotton lawn sleeveless shirt

Bess wearing her much-loved cotton lawn trellis print shirt. Lawn is a brilliant weave to wear in the heat as it is so fine, yet still nice to sew with. The pattern was copied from a worn-out White Stuff shirt (now out of production), The bust darts are really tucks coming down from the shoulders. The armholes are faced with a wide tapered bias armhole binding that folds back to give the armhole some substance (anything to balance out Bess’s hips, she says, is a good thing 😉 )

Bess used no interfacing in the construction of this shirt – looking at the one she copied it didn’t seem they had used any, she worried about the buttonholes cocking up not working and the collar-band not lying properly but it was fine, if the fabric was less stable than lawn she would use light interfacing.

Fabric and Notions:
Blue trellis print cotton lawn
10mm red buttons

Pattern: drafted from manufactured shirt.

Also seen, cloud print red and white jersey skirt

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Liberty Tana Lawn Cotton Print Vintage Vogue Dress

Liberty blossom print tana lawn cotton dress in Vintage Vogue pattern

Amazing Liberty blossom printed Tana Lawn cotton dress made using the Vintage Vogue Pattern V2960 (the dress has been altered from the pattern), made by Jane for Lulu.

liberty lawn vintage Vogue dress
liberty lawn vintage Vogue dress

If you can’t face the fiddle of making the belt yourself (we couldn’t) send the fabric off to Harlequin—they will do it for you along with covering buttons and various other fiddly jobs. It’s worth it as it looks so professional.

liberty blossom print tana lawn vintage vogue dress
liberty blossom print tana lawn vintage vogue dress

The dress petticoat is made up in a plain cotton lawn which has been bound with the Liberty lawn using a 19mm Bias Maker.

liberty tana lawn hem binding
liberty tana lawn hem binding
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Fine Red Wool Dress with Giant Rickrack Trim

Bess wearing a Laurent Garigue fine red wool panelled dress with giant rickrack sewn around the neck, worn over red and white polka dot printed jersey raglan sleeved t-shirt.

The red wool comes with an organza trim down one selvedge, which Bess dutifully ignored (she did think she *might* use it on the hem, but Bess doesn’t feel comfortable in anything resembling a frill), it is possibly criminal to ignore what is essentially the wow factor of the fabric, but she has saved it and may well use it on something else in the future. The wool is fine and gorgeous – a kind of Varuna/Challis, and will be suitable to wear throughout the year.

The giant rickrack needed to be hand sewn so it would lay correctly; a slightly tedious operation (Bess likes to sew QUICKLY), but well worth it.

The dress is lined in a cotton and silk voile, so it is ever so light, but surprisingly warm.

There’s no zip-it just chucks over the head.

Fabrics and Notions:

Dress:

Red Laurent Garigue wool with silk organza pleated trim #3513,
Giant turquoise rickrack,
Fuchsia Pink Silk and Cotton voile lining. (Pattern: Bess’s own).

T-shirt:

Red polka dot viscose and elastane jersey, Pattern: Marcy Tilton for Vogue #8636 (lengthened sleeves and altered collar)

 

 

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Magenta Pink and Camel Check Worsted Wool Skirt

magenta and camel check wool worsted skirt

Jane wearing her neat little check skirt with kick pleat split in the back. You can’t tell by this photo but those checks match PERFECTLY (as if Jane would not match her checks). Turned on the Venezia lining with velvet piping on the waist

Fabrics and Notions:

Magenta and camel check wool worsted #3489
Shot magenta Venezia lining
Magenta velvet piping

Pattern: McCall’s M3830

 

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Spotty Navy and White Jersey Dress

polka dot spotty ponte jersey dress

Inspired by scruffybadgertime’s sew-along Denise decided to join in and make up this fab spotty navy and white jersey dress. It doesn’t have a lot of stretch (as jerseys go) but I think this was an ideal choice for the pattern. You can read all about it on her blog

Fabrics and Notions:

Navy and White heavy Jersey (nearly as heavy as a Ponte Roma Jersey, but not quite)
Iron on interfacing (neck)
Bias Binding (armholes)
Zip

Pattern: New Look 6000

polka dot spotty ponte jersey dress
polka dot spotty ponte jersey dress

 

 

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Heart Quilted Fairy Dresses

Kitcat and Miaow wearing their heart quilted dresses with chiffon wings. All made by Bess

Fabrics and Notions:

Kitcat: (sugar plum fairy)
Pink heart quilted polyester #3330
Pink polyester georgette #3104 (wings)
Pale pink nylon tulle (underskirt)
Dusky pink grey nylon tulle (underskirt)
White satin (lining)
Pale pink satin elastic (to attach wings to wrists)
Pale pink bias binding

Miaow: (water baby)
Cream heart quilted polyester #3380
Cream polyester georgette (wings)
Pale green nylon net (underskirt)
Pale grey nylon net (underskirt)
Ivory nylon tulle (underskirt)
White satin (lining)
Ivory satin elastic (to attach wings to wrists)
Pale green bias binding

Patterns: Made up. Circular skirt plus a basic block bodice.

Lesson learned: back openings have to go beyond the waist – I thought as the waist was elasticated slightly that there would be enough give to get in and out, but it is a right palaver! Now all have to be unpicked (dammit) and bodged altered.

 

heart quilted poly fairy dress
heart quilted poly fairy dress
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Blue Big Spotty Mac

blue spotty proofed poly raincoat

Lucinda made this fun mac for her mum using big spot print proofed polyamide and lined in brushed cotton.

Fabrics and Notions:

Blue spotty proofed polyamide from Boden
Brushed Cotton (lining)
Bias Tape  (detail to cover up where she ripped it then cried)
Stay tape (armholes)
Birdy Buttons (to cheer her up after crying)

We think this coat is all the better for bodged bias decoration.

blue spotty proofed poly raincoat
blue spotty proofed poly raincoat
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Velour and Printed Soft Net Christmas Dresses

red velvet and tulle party dresses with yeti fur waistcoats

Kitcat and Miaow at Chatsworth house wearing their matching red velour and pink spotty soft net dresses, with yeti fur waistcoats. Made by Jane.

Fabrics and Notions:
Dresses:
Red stretch velour.
Pink and Orange spotty print soft dress net.
Pink, orange and red dress net.
Cotton voile (lining).
Spotty Bias Binding.
Red Satin Ribbon (Sash).
Waistcoats:
Off-white Yeti fur
Cream brushed cotton (lining)
Pompoms made with wool.

Waistcoats made due to a nostalgic memory of Bess wearing hers as a little girl (also made by Jane)

1978 yeti waistcoat
1978 yeti waistcoat
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Alpaca and Wool Boucle Knit Jacket and Wool Crepe Skirt

Alpaca knit jacket and wool crepe skirt

Dolly wearing Alpaca and wool mix bouclé cardigan jacket with bluebell blue wool crepe A-Line skirt. To stabilise the loose weave of the jacket Jane mounted it on to cotton muslin before sewing. Made by Jane for Kath.

Fabrics and Notions:

Alpaca wool and acrylic cardigan jacket type tweed/knit #3197
Cotton Muslin (interlining)
Ivory silk double crepe (lining)
Blue satin bias binding (piping)
Blue lacquered coconut buttons

Bluebell wool crepe
Invisible zip
Velvet ready made piping
Venezia lining
3mm ribbons for trimming hem

 

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Black Wool and Mohair Double Breasted Coat

black wool and mohair coating

Bess ready for winter wearing her superb black wool and mohair coat lined with spotty red and purple Laurent Garigue twill silk. The collar and facings are interfaced with silk organza which kept it really light.

Fabrics and Notions:

Black Wool and Mohair Coating #3329
Laurent Garigue Spotty Print Silk Twill (lining)
Silk Organza
Half Round Silver Metal Buttons

Pattern: Burda Magazine -October 2012 edition.

spotty laurent garigue twill lining
spotty laurent garigue twill lining

 

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Cloud Print Jersey Mini Skirt and Raglan Top

raglan sweatshirt and cloud printed jersey mini skirt

Bess wearing her cloud printed cotton elastane jersey mini skirt, with cobalt blue double jersey raglan sleeve top. Both the top and the skirt took less than half an hour to make (each) – more time was spent waiting for the iron to heat up, or choosing which side to do the top (the reverse of that fabric is a lovely teal colour.

Bess loves things that take less than half an hour to make 🙂

Fabrics and Notions:

Cotton Elastane cloud printed jersey #2846.
Cobalt Blue/Teal double sided jersey #3193. See more jersey here
Elastic

Patterns:

Skirt: DKNY for Vogue (adapted from long skirt, pattern now discontinued)
Top: Marcy Tilton for Vogue. #8636 (collar, cuffs and hem adapted from pattern)


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Ivory Guipure Lace Wedding Dress with Detachable Lower Skirt

Photo: MLPHOTOS @ www.mlphotos.co.uk

Anthea looking beautiful wearing the ivory Guipure lace dress that unbuttons to become a short dress for the evening. Backed in cream stretch cotton sateen to warm up the colour and give it a bit of structure, and lined in cream Venezia lining. Made by Bess

 

Once the sun went down Anthea took off the lower skirt. Nice shoes!

guipure lace wedding dress with lower skirt detached
guipure lace wedding dress with lower skirt detached

Turquoise satin bias binding was used to pipe the neckline to add just a touch of colour

guipure lace wedding dress neckline detail
guipure lace wedding dress neckline detail

The skirt and the lower skirt were embroidered with a red heart so as to match up when putting together (there are seventeen buttons holding it together – you really don’t want to button them on cocky!

guipure lace wedding dress hearts detail
guipure lace wedding dress hearts detail

Bess embroidered a label with the date of the wedding plus a few spare buttons, and sewed it on only three sides so as to double as an emergency (inside) pocket

guipure lace wedding dress pocket detail
guipure lace wedding dress pocket detail

 

Fabrics and Notions:

Ivory Guipure Lace
Cream Stretch Cotton Sateen
Cream Venezia Lining
Fine piping cord
Turquoise satin bias binding
Invisible zip
Shell Buttons
Embroidery thread
Remnant of shot turquoise Linen

Pattern: Bess’s Own


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Pop-art Print Panelled Shift Dress

pop art printed stretch cotton sateen dress

Bess wearing her panelled pop-art print stretch cotton sateen lined dress, complete with the fimo wedding couple wire framed ‘hat’.

Despite Bess going to the bother of putting in an invisible zip, she just throws it over her head. (she doesn’t put zips in that pattern anymore) AND, much to her disdain (and wasted effort), the dress was originally going to have a panel of the fab glow in the dark cotton straight down the middle, but she scrapped that idea after it was making it hang funny. (and possibly there is enough going on with that dress with out a girt big glowey stripe down her 😉

Fabrics and Notions:

Pop-art print stretch cotton sateen
White Venezia lining
Invisible zip

Pattern: Bess’s own

 

 

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Yellow Printed Viscose Dress with Black Silk Bolero

yellow viscose dress with black silk bolero

Yellow and multi printed viscose shift dress made by Angie (fabric given to her for her birthday), and black silk dupion bolero with frill made by Angie for Francesca.

Fabrics and Notions:

Dress:
Multi printed yellow and multi viscose.
Venezia lining
Invisible zip
Piping

Pattern: Burda 8133

Bolero:
Black silk dupion
Black Venezia lining

Pattern: Butterick 3345

 

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White Silk with Black Polka Dot Tulle Dress

black spotty tulle dress with white silk lining

Abi wearing her fitted bodice with gathered skirt dress made in white silk and sheer black spotty tulle, made by Angie.

Fabrics and Notions:

White silk habotai
Black spotty nylon tulle
Invisible zip
Lightweight knitted interfacing

Pattern Vogue V8443 (bodice) and V2962 (skirt).

It can be a bit of a fiddle, but amalgamating two patterns into one can solve the problem of never finding exactly what you are after. It’s a good idea to make a toile first to check there are no nasty surprises (you should ALWAYS do this, but it is especially important when you are tinkering).

Tulles and nets do not fray or unravel so you can leave the hem with the cut edge, so cut it straight! Alternatively, especially if you would like to add volume to the skirt, you can bind the hem with bias binding (this is often seen on the yards and yards of underskirts that go under meringue wedding dresses)

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Stretch Cotton Jacket and Elephant Print Viscose Skirt

flippy viscose skirt and marcy tilton jacket

Rachel wearing stretch cotton jacket with embossed squares, eyelet tape and various trims, and elephant printed floppy viscose panelled skirt.

Fabrics and Notions:

Jacket:
Black embossed stretch cotton
Black hatch print Linen (border/collar)
Velvet ribbon
Suedette eyelet tape
Haematite beads
Machine embroidery

Pattern: Marcy Tilton (discontinued)

Skirt:
Elephant print viscose
Medium weight knitted iron-on interfacing
Invisible zip

flippy viscose skirt
flippy viscose skirt
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Turquoise Guipure Lace Short Sleeved Shirt

dyed cotton guipure lace top

This amazing shirt made by Jane (for Lulu) was made with white cotton Guipure lace that was dyed turquoise (along with the cotton lawn lining and button-hole trim) with a Dylon machine dye. The front and back darts were appliqué seamed rather than sewn normally so are almost invisible.

Fabrics and Notions:

White cotton Guipure lace #2900
White ‘Riviera’ cotton lawn
Off white button-hole trim
Dylon turquoise dye
Turquoise shell buttons

Pattern: Altered from a Vintage Vogue Dress pattern V2960 (made up before here)

dyed cotton guipure lace top detail
dyed cotton guipure lace top detail

 

 

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Black Stretch Lace T-shirt

black stretch lace t-shirt

Black stretch lace t-shirt made by Jane for Lulu

Fabrics and Notions:

Black stretch lace #2415

Stay tape

Pattern: Altered from an ancient Vogue Elements hooded top pattern.

Whilst all the seams were overlocked, Jane hemmed and turned the neck using a twin needle, which gives enough stretch on a straight stitch because of the bobbin zigzagging on the reverse. It is an effective way to finish off the hems using a domestic machine.

black stretch lace t-shirt
black stretch lace t-shirt

This hot pink dummy might be fabulous but this t-shirt looks lots better with arms in it, you know.

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Turquoise Cloud Print Stand-Up Collar T-Shirt

cloud printed jersey top

Lulu wearing turquoise cloud print cotton and elastane jersey t-shirt with stand up collar made by Bess.

Fabrics and Notions:

Turquoise cloud print cotton with 7% elastane (v.stretchy) jersey.
Stay tape

Pattern: Adapted from an ancient Vogue Elements hooded top pattern.

To add a stand collar like this to a round neckline is easy as the pattern is cut straight, just cut a rectangle twice the height of the collar (plus seam allowances), and as wide as the circumference of the neckline (do not add seam allowances).  Sew the collar into a tube, fold in half and then overlock or stitch the raw edges together at the neck.

 

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Bright Blue Worsted Wool Skirt Suit with Matching Bag

bright blue worsted wool skirt suit

Philippa wearing her beautifully made worsted wool skirt suit with checkerboard weave and matching bag.

Fabrics and Notions:

Bright Blue checkerboard weave worsted virgin wool.
Thai silk block printed lining
Lacquered shell buttons (jacket)
Invisible zip (skirt)
Viscose iron-on interfacing
Clasp (bag) from grandmother’s treasure box.

Patterns (all altered, but based upon):

Jacket: Vogue 1643
Skirt: McCall’s 5523
Bag: from the book, Making Vintage Handbags by Emma Brennan

bright blue worsted wool suit with silk lining
bright blue worsted wool suit with silk lining

phillipa-blue-suit-buttons

bright blue worsted wool skirt suit
bright blue worsted wool skirt suit
bright blue worsted wool vintage bag
bright blue worsted wool vintage bag
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Flower Printed Cotton Dress with Sand-washed Silk Bolero

floral printed bias cut cotton dress

Lucinda with a remake of her bias cut dress (seen first here) using Boden flower printed cotton and worn with a lined red sand-washed silk poplin bolero.

Fabrics and Notions:

Dress:
Boden printed cotton
Cotton lawn lining (#1011)
Invisible zip

Bolero:
Red sand-washed silk poplin
Venezia lining
Medium knitted interfacing

Dress pattern: 7798

 

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Laminated Cotton Hooded Raincoat with Pink Linen Trousers

spotty laminated cotton raincoat

Jane (the boss lady) wearing her laminated cotton pink spotty raincoat with stripe yoke and contrasting spotty lining with detachable hood, and pink linen fly-front trousers.

Fabrics and Notions:

Jacket:
Pink and turquoise spotty laminated cotton #3021
Pink and turquoise stripe laminated cotton #3022
Anbo spotty American printed cotton.
Separating turquoise chunky zip.
Dyed turquoise shell buttons.
Clear plastic back buttons.

Trousers:
Pink heavy linen
7″ Dress and skirt zip
2 x buttons
Viscose iron-on Interfacing

Patterns:
Jacket: (discontinued) Anna Sui for Vogue #2424
Trousers: Burda 2938

There is no interfacing or stabilising in this jacket as the laminated cotton is very stable. Jane rarely makes things for herself, or in this kind of fabric and has been frequently saying, “I’m really pleased with that jacket!”. It makes all this rain ALMOST bearable.

spotty laminated cotton raincoat
spotty laminated cotton raincoat

 

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Boiled Wool Waterfall Unlined Jacket and Cotton Waffle Trousers

boiled wool waterfall jacket

Rachel (from classes) wearing her turquoise boiled wool waterfall jacket with red wool binding, and Paddy Campbell off-white cotton waffle wide leg trousers.

Fabrics and Notions:

Jacket:
Turquoise boiled wool
Red wool fold-over binding

Trousers:
Paddy Campbell off-white cotton waffle
Zip
Knitted iron-on interfacing

Patterns:
Jacket, McCall’s 5937
Trousers, Vogue 8717

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Vintage Vogue Cotton Dress and Linen Jacket

Vintage Vogue cotton dress with linen bolero jacket

Lulu wearing vintage Vogue dress made with swimmers printed cotton and pink linen bolero, all made by Jane.

Fabrics and Notions:
Dress:
Swimmers print cotton
Riviera cotton lawn lining
Cover buttons
Covered belt
Bias binding

Pattern: Vintage Vogue V2960

Bolero:
Pink Heavy Linen
Swimmers print cotton
Button
Piping

Cotton poplin Vintage Vogue dress and linen bolero
Cotton poplin Vintage Vogue dress and linen bolero
Cotton poplin Vintage Vogue dress and linen bolero
Cotton poplin Vintage Vogue dress and linen bolero