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Floral Embroidered Silk Organza Halter-Neck Wedding Dress

black and white silk organza halter-neck wedding dress

Sue looking STUNNING in Greece getting married, wearing the dress she made using fabulous embroidered silk organza.  Sue slightly amended the Vogue Original pattern so she could make best use of the scalloped edge, removing part of the lining to allow for 180” of skirt material being gathered into 27” (few sleepless nights there) but all in all, it was the best possible fabric choice she could have made.

black and white silk organza halter-neck wedding dress

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Turquoise Mermaid Blue Sequinned Dress

Turquoise sequinned tulle dress

Jane made this sequinned tulle dress for her grandchildren Kitcat and Miaow (they share). The armholes are bound in lightweight satin bias binding, the hem is taken up with turquoise lycra binding and the neck has a plain mandarin collar made from cotton jersey so the scratchy sequin factor is minimised. This dress makes all the grown-ups exclaim “I WANT ONE!”.

Turquoise sequinned tulle dress detail Turquoise sequinned tulle dress

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Red Scuba Jersey Chado Ralph Rucci Dress

Jacoba triumphant in her Chado Ralph Rucci dress made up in red scuba jersey, she said it’s been great to do some sewing again. The (minor) changes made to the pattern were raising the front slit by 2 inches, omitting the front panel pockets (didn’t want the extra bulk), and also slightly changing the curve on the shoulders. She said the jersey was remarkably good fabric to work with. Huzzah for that top-stitiching!

red scuba jersey Chado Ralph Rucci dress
red scuba jersey Chado Ralph Rucci dress
V1317 Chado Ralph Rucci dress pattern from Vogue
V1317 Chado Ralph Rucci dress pattern from Vogue

 

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Purple Stretch Cotton Piqué Panelled Shift Dress

Bess was looking at this purple piqué for well over a year before she decided she was able to wear purple, and is rather loving the extra colour in her wardrobe. The pattern is a long tried and tested pattern she took from a Jaeger dress (seen here in many guises). This time it is unlined and piped in green satin around the neck and has green bias binding inside the hem (just in case anyone should look inside.

Despite the close fit no zip is necessary – she just wiggles in.

 

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Cream Daisy Lace Maternity Dress with Pink Yoke

Clair made this cream daisy lace maternity dress with pink linen viscose yoke for Rosie for a Scottish high summer (ha ha) wedding… on the morning of the party! The toile had been sorted out previously (see pic below in embroidered linen and viscose). The pattern is a 80’s /90’s vintage McCall’s pattern found on Ebay.

embroidered linen and viscose maternity dress
embroidered linen and viscose maternity dress
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Silk Posh Frock

pposh silk satin frock with fitted jacket

Rowena being a very glam Mother of the Groom in her black and magenta abstract print silk satin flared dress and matching dupion silk fitted jacket. She was a busy bee as she also made her hat and bag plus grooms men’s cravats and hankies. Also her daughter in law’s lace gown (which she beaded!) her veil and headdress.

Blimey! Now she is off to do some gardening. 

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Black Guipure Lace Dress with Cream Silk Lining

Bess wearing black circles lace dress holding a glass of bubbly

Bess enjoying a glass of bubbly wearing her black guipure lace dress which was lined in cream silk rep suiting. The pattern is her very basic dress block that only has bust darts and a centre back seam for shape. It’s tricky to tell in this photo but the lining is 3″ shorter leaving the scalloped edge unlined. Also unseen is the perfectly matched centre back seam (You’ll have to trust me on this one).

The lining and the lace are made up separately and joined at the neck with a vibrant turquoise satin bias binding. There’s no zip- it just chucks over the head.

 

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Sequinned Dress for a little Angel

sequinned dress singing little angel

Kitcat singing us all Christmas carols in her sequinned dress made by Jane. It is lined in heavy tricot and the armholes and neck are bound with jersey binding.

You get fabulous movement with this sequinned fabric as each sequin is black on one side and silver on the other, so every move is exaggerated with the movement of the sequin. They are surprisingly easy to sew -just snip them out of the seam allowance so you don’t need to sew through them.

You can find various sequinned fabrics HERE

1926
black and silver sequinned fabric
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Feather Trimmed Red Guipure Lace Coat (squawking obligatory)

Red guipure lace coat with feather trim

Bess in her not-very-over-the-top coat at all made using red guipure lace and 6″ feather trim.

The coat was prepared ever so slowly making sure the spots matched and everything would line up properly and then it was izzywhizzied together on the overlocker in about 3 minutes.

Then the feather trim was hand sewn on (Bess’s fingers are still calloused from the needle – that trim has got sticky stuff inside the satin binding (that stop the feathers falling out), it’s not nice to sew!

Then the feather trim was un-picked and sewn on all over again not so tight in an effort to make it hang straight in the middle. It’s almost there, Bess weighed up further hand sewing and the possibility of losing her fingers with her OCD of straight edges and the fingers won.

Then the front edge and neck were bound in fold-over petersham binding which magically saved the jacket from being a bit ‘crafty’ (in the derogatory way) and Bess wore it to her baby step-sister’s wedding.

Also seen: bag made from offcuts of leather and a London bus e-plate. As you do.

red circle design guipure lace
red circle design guipure lace
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Navy Corded Lace Shrug

Navy corded lace shrug with scalloped edges

Debbie modelling her shrug made using navy corded lace with scalloped edges.  She was very pleased with it as it really updated a dress she had had for a long time.  She drafted the pattern using a short sleeved shrug she already had as a pattern. Debbie had to do a bit of juggling with the scallops and hand stitching so that they would go around the curves but was glad with the finished effect. It turned out a little tight across the back and around the armholes but wasn’t a problem when it was worn for a posh event as was still able to dance in it!

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Duck Egg Silk Damask Ralph Rucci for Vogue Dress

silk damask Ralph Rucci Dress

Suzanne from Cyprus celebrating her son’s wedding (he’s the one holding the flowers) wearing Silk Damask made up in a v-neck flared dress by Ralph Rucci for Vogue (V1381). This pattern is not simple – there are quilted yokes and bands, an attached belt with some tricky rouleau to tie it together —all in a fabric that doesn’t easily yield. It took her a while but it was very much worth it.

We love this photo. Such fun.

 

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Blue Floral Stretch Cotton Sateen Shift with Cap Sleeves

floral stretch cotton sateen shift dress with cap sleeves

Jane at the Royal Academy Summer exhibition flaunting her floral stretch cotton sateen dress. The pattern comes from her block -which if you look at flat on the table looks absolutely barmy but fits her fabulously so don’t argue- Symmetrical, she is not!

The dress is lined in Venezia and there is a concealed zip up the back.

Matching shoes: model’s own.

floral stretch cotton sateen shift dress with cap sleeves
floral stretch cotton sateen shift dress with cap sleeves

 

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Sea Green Stretch Pique Pleated Dress

sea green stretch cotton piqué pleated dress

Helen made this fabulous pleated dress for an afternoon tea get-together in London. She’d had a bit of a slump before this with a couple of disastrous projects and this put a proper smile back on her face (yay!). She used sea green stretch cotton pique with daisy trim decorating the hem. The pattern is McCall’s 6953 which we’ve seen made up in a variety of fabrics and on a variety of body shapes and always looks good. The Bodice is lined in Venezia lining.

 

sea green stretch cotton piqué pleated dress
sea green stretch cotton piqué pleated dress


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Yellow Brocade Tom and Linda Platt Dress

Yellow Brocade Tom and Linda Platt Dress

Lulu wearing her Tom and Linda Platt (Vogue 1348) yellow and turquoise poly/lurex brocade dress, made by Jane. The pattern has box pleats with bizarre instructions (Jane followed them once then did the rest her way). It has a concealed zip, silk underlining and velvet ready made piping around the armholes and neck. There is a petticoat in turquoise cotton poplin which is trimmed in lace. There are a million pieces to this pattern and so whilst it was not particularly difficult make (especially when ignoring the box pleat construction) it took a long time to cut out all the pieces.

This dress needs a fabric with a certain amount of bounce to it and this brocade worked a treat. The petticoat has ruffles and lace trim galore but the skirt hoops out all by itself.

 

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Peacock Lace Shift Dress

peacock lace shift dress

Elwen in her peacock leaf design cotton mix lace shift dress with lime green Venezia lining.

Using Burda pattern 8213, she lengthened it a bit (Elwen says it’s quite short but it’s more that she’s quite tall). The lace is overlocked (by Bess because Elwen was being a proper wuss), the lining was cut 2 sizes bigger to accommodate the stretch of the lace, but it was a bit too big so 1 size would have been sufficient. Made on the 30th for New Years’ Eve so no time for alterations!

 

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Moonstone Beaded Silk Dress with Tail

moonstone embroidered silk moroccain dress

Jane made this silver grey Silk Moroccain crepe cowl neck wedding dress for her eldest daughter, Jessie. It is beaded with thousands of moonstone chips (Jane has the patience of a saint).

To ensure the fabric had enough strength the silk was blocked onto Venezia lining (those chips are very heavy). All in all the dress took about 3 months; a lot of evenings and weekends, and never more than a few hours on the trot due to a broken elbow- and concern for her own sanity. Jessie helped with the beading and Bess was responsible for constructing the tail (Jessie insisted on a tail, Jane was appalled at the idea but the Bride gets what the Bride wants).

Silk Moroccain is a double crepe that drapes well and has a subtle lustre to it. We try, but don’t always have it in stock,  but can order it (next day delivery) in around 40 colours.

The tail hooks on to the back with corset hooks and was stuffed with Polyfil.

Well you wouldn’t have a normal dress for getting married in Vegas by Johnny Cash, would you?

Jessie swinging the tail of her moonstone embellished wedding dress
Jessie swinging the tail of her moonstone embellished wedding dress
Johnny Cash and guests
Johnny Cash and guests
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White Cotton Dobby Flower Girl Dresses

cotton dobby lawn dresses

Kitcat and Miaow wearing their white cotton dobby flower girl dresses. (They were so excited about being flower girls I thought they might pop).

The necks were too wide (the joy of making clothes for girls who live 200 miles away) so Jane made little tucks sewn down with french knots (so not a mistake, a happy accident!), she also used the same french knots to hold up the hems.

Pattern: Simplicity 5226 (but without the buttons down the front)
Cotton dobby lawn, like these HERE

They were lined in Riviera cotton lawn

Miaow in cotton dobby lawn flower girl dress
Miaow in cotton dobby lawn flower girl dress
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Liberty Tana Lawn Cotton Print Vintage Vogue Dress

Liberty blossom print tana lawn cotton dress in Vintage Vogue pattern

Amazing Liberty blossom printed Tana Lawn cotton dress made using the Vintage Vogue Pattern V2960 (the dress has been altered from the pattern), made by Jane for Lulu.

liberty lawn vintage Vogue dress
liberty lawn vintage Vogue dress

If you can’t face the fiddle of making the belt yourself (we couldn’t) send the fabric off to Harlequin—they will do it for you along with covering buttons and various other fiddly jobs. It’s worth it as it looks so professional.

liberty blossom print tana lawn vintage vogue dress
liberty blossom print tana lawn vintage vogue dress

The dress petticoat is made up in a plain cotton lawn which has been bound with the Liberty lawn using a 19mm Bias Maker.

liberty tana lawn hem binding
liberty tana lawn hem binding
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Velour and Printed Soft Net Christmas Dresses

red velvet and tulle party dresses with yeti fur waistcoats

Kitcat and Miaow at Chatsworth house wearing their matching red velour and pink spotty soft net dresses, with yeti fur waistcoats. Made by Jane.

Fabrics and Notions:
Dresses:
Red stretch velour.
Pink and Orange spotty print soft dress net.
Pink, orange and red dress net.
Cotton voile (lining).
Spotty Bias Binding.
Red Satin Ribbon (Sash).
Waistcoats:
Off-white Yeti fur
Cream brushed cotton (lining)
Pompoms made with wool.

Waistcoats made due to a nostalgic memory of Bess wearing hers as a little girl (also made by Jane)

1978 yeti waistcoat
1978 yeti waistcoat
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Ivory Guipure Lace Wedding Dress with Detachable Lower Skirt

Photo: MLPHOTOS @ www.mlphotos.co.uk

Anthea looking beautiful wearing the ivory Guipure lace dress that unbuttons to become a short dress for the evening. Backed in cream stretch cotton sateen to warm up the colour and give it a bit of structure, and lined in cream Venezia lining. Made by Bess

 

Once the sun went down Anthea took off the lower skirt. Nice shoes!

guipure lace wedding dress with lower skirt detached
guipure lace wedding dress with lower skirt detached

Turquoise satin bias binding was used to pipe the neckline to add just a touch of colour

guipure lace wedding dress neckline detail
guipure lace wedding dress neckline detail

The skirt and the lower skirt were embroidered with a red heart so as to match up when putting together (there are seventeen buttons holding it together – you really don’t want to button them on cocky!

guipure lace wedding dress hearts detail
guipure lace wedding dress hearts detail

Bess embroidered a label with the date of the wedding plus a few spare buttons, and sewed it on only three sides so as to double as an emergency (inside) pocket

guipure lace wedding dress pocket detail
guipure lace wedding dress pocket detail

 

Fabrics and Notions:

Ivory Guipure Lace
Cream Stretch Cotton Sateen
Cream Venezia Lining
Fine piping cord
Turquoise satin bias binding
Invisible zip
Shell Buttons
Embroidery thread
Remnant of shot turquoise Linen

Pattern: Bess’s Own


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Yellow Printed Viscose Dress with Black Silk Bolero

yellow viscose dress with black silk bolero

Yellow and multi printed viscose shift dress made by Angie (fabric given to her for her birthday), and black silk dupion bolero with frill made by Angie for Francesca.

Fabrics and Notions:

Dress:
Multi printed yellow and multi viscose.
Venezia lining
Invisible zip
Piping

Pattern: Burda 8133

Bolero:
Black silk dupion
Black Venezia lining

Pattern: Butterick 3345

 

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White Silk with Black Polka Dot Tulle Dress

black spotty tulle dress with white silk lining

Abi wearing her fitted bodice with gathered skirt dress made in white silk and sheer black spotty tulle, made by Angie.

Fabrics and Notions:

White silk habotai
Black spotty nylon tulle
Invisible zip
Lightweight knitted interfacing

Pattern Vogue V8443 (bodice) and V2962 (skirt).

It can be a bit of a fiddle, but amalgamating two patterns into one can solve the problem of never finding exactly what you are after. It’s a good idea to make a toile first to check there are no nasty surprises (you should ALWAYS do this, but it is especially important when you are tinkering).

Tulles and nets do not fray or unravel so you can leave the hem with the cut edge, so cut it straight! Alternatively, especially if you would like to add volume to the skirt, you can bind the hem with bias binding (this is often seen on the yards and yards of underskirts that go under meringue wedding dresses)

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White Grosgrain, Red Sateen and Black Sequin Zippy Dress

white grosgrain zippy panelled dress with sequinned yoke and red sateen inserts

Bess wearing her posh white grosgrain and sequinned zippy dress, with red cotton sateen inserts.

Bess has a bit of an obsession with zips

Fabrics and Notions:
White cotton and acetate grosgrain
Black sequinned jersey
Red cotton and poly stretch sateen
Red continuous zipping
Red piping
Red bias binding (cut from sateen)
Iron-on reinforced stabilising tape
Iron on stabilising tape
Black fold-over grosgrain binding (hem)

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Sequin Dress

sequin and organic cotton mini dress

Bess wearing her sequinned tulle and organic cotton jersey dress (made in one hour!)

Fabrics and Notions
Silver/Black penny sequinned tulle #1926
Black organic cotton jersey #2916
Stay tape

Bess made sleeves and lined her sequin dress in cotton jersey because she is fairly intolerant when it comes to suffering for fashion (and sequins are hot and scratchy).

This dress would have taken much less than an hour had she not taken the time to cut away the sequins along the seams (which makes sewing easier, reduces the risk of a sequin jabbing her in the thigh, and the seams lie nice and flat. It was unnecessary to sew any back on.
Due to the tulle backing the sequins are sewn on to no hemming was required (result!).

 

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Purple Embroidered Linen Shift Dress

embroidered linen shift dress

Dee wears this elegant purple embroidered linen mix shift dress
Fabrics and Notions:
String embroidered linen mix
Purple Venezia lining
Medium weight knitted iron-on interfacing
Invisible zip

It is a good idea to make a toile (a roughly made up dress in inexpensive fabric) when making a shift dress with this flattering wide neck style so that it doesn’t gape. A toile is ALWAYS a good idea when making up a pattern you haven’t tried before, but it is especially important for this neckline which has a tendency to gape. Dee made this up beautifully.